What have you done to your square lately??

[1STLS1]

@1STLS1 I hear you loud and clear. Right in the middle of an engine swap. I'm just exchanging a 350 for a 350, but every time you turn around you need something. Hoses and belts are a given, but the speedi sleeve that I neglected to get for the Harmonic balancer that I neglected to check, won't be here til tomorrow, the bolts that I neglected to clean, and on and on. Just the typical stuff you run into when your changing things over. The 2 steps forward and 3 back kills me. Looks like I shoulda put this in the RANT thread?

My cross to bear was wiring pigtails and sensors. When I started , it was a "BOAT, bust out another thousand", by the time I got to the end off it it was a 'BOAH, bust out another hundred". You try to do it right so it doesn't bite you later but damn, it got old and expensive. Amazon is $3 more than RA but RA wants $11.99 shipping, Summit will give you the shipping with a big enough order and a ok price. Amazon is 1-2 day, Summit usually 2 days, RA is 5 days. I can't imagine going to a brick and mortar parts store these days for stuff. Blink and another week went by with another issue to deal with.

 

[1STLS1]

That's why I refer to them as Painful, not Painless.

I have never purchased a Painless Wiring harness, is there an issue with them? I am still on the fence about swapping it out.

 

[bucket]

I have never purchased a Painless Wiring harness, is there an issue with them? I am still on the fence about swapping it out.

I installed a Painless TBI harness on a 4.3L a number of years ago. It was pretty simple and straightforward, but I installed it in a '46 panel truck with a Camaro clip... so it was a complete new install.

But trying to integrate it into a truck that is already setup for TBI? I think it would be more trouble than it's worth, especially considering the cost involved. If the factory harness is in that bad of shape, a used harness in nicer shape would be a better option, imho.

 

[Travlr]

I have never purchased a Painless Wiring harness, is there an issue with them? I am still on the fence about swapping it out.

Yeah, as @bucket said, a used harness in good shape is better in many ways.

The painless systems are just wire in the end, but packaged and advertised to impress. They may come with a few things like a new fuse box. But they still don't come with factory connectors and they have to be spliced.

I've built harnesses after looking at the kits that are available and you might as well just buy rolls of generic wire and copy your old harness. It would be nice to find wire that has stripes like original wires, but I never found any sources for original color coded wire. And it would also be nice to find kits with original ends, but I've never found them either and have had to salvage them from the old harness.

EDIT: I just googled striped automotive wire and found a source. I haven't built a harness for several years, so something's changed. Maybe original ends are available by now?

 

[bluex]

American autowire kits come with more connectors than painless. But if your going LS, dakotas an vintage air might as well save some money an go with a universal one as you won't need all those factory connections anyhow.

Worst thing is getting a truck with a new harness then redoing it again because they used these ****** solderless connections everywhere that are falling apart toss those things if you have them please. Even if you get them to melt they still corrode badly.

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[ChuckN]

I left the truck put together for this past week, since my sister was in town and she said she wanted to go for a drive. It didn’t end up happening because we were busy and they were here for a short time.

Today I’m struggling with ordering parts. All of the black Friday deals, they’re just not really worth anything. All of the major parts manufacturers that are good ones have a exemption for the sales, so I guess from here on out I need to start thinking about what exactly I want to order instead of just buying a whole bunch at one time. Also, what needs to be replaced even though it’s a newish rebuild.

I have a hard time thinking I would put back the old harmonic balancer, it’s probably an original and is 50 years now. Also, the timing chain is probably new, but I have a hard time thinking about putting a used one back in. That kind of thing- same for oil pump.

This time I’m trying to be smart about it. The money I save today could be eaten up by shipping everything back if things don’t work out, or I decide to change plans on parts selection.

 

[bucket]

American autowire kits come with more connectors than painless. But if your going LS, dakotas an vintage air might as well save some money an go with a universal one as you won't need all those factory connections anyhow.

Worst thing is getting a truck with a new harness then redoing it again because they used these ****** solderless connections everywhere that are falling apart toss those things if you have them please. Even if you get them to melt they still corrode badly.

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Any connection will corrode when they are crimped like that. That one looks to have been crimped with an improper tool by a ham-****** baboon.

The slightest tear in the outer heat shrink sleeve will let moisture in.

*edit* Jebus, even "f!sted" is a naughty word?!

 

[Sgt Gus]

My cross to bear was wiring pigtails and sensors. When I started , it was a "BOAT, bust out another thousand", by the time I got to the end off it it was a 'BOAH, bust out another hundred". You try to do it right so it doesn't bite you later but damn, it got old and expensive. Amazon is $3 more than RA but RA wants $11.99 shipping, Summit will give you the shipping with a big enough order and a ok price. Amazon is 1-2 day, Summit usually 2 days, RA is 5 days. I can't imagine going to a brick and mortar parts store these days for stuff. Blink and another week went by with another issue to deal with.

Yes, I think that is the most frustrating part. There is no one stop place. I have a huge list saved in favorites under auto including local stores. Oh, I just spent a couple hours shopping...

 

[Sgt Gus]

American autowire kits come with more connectors than painless. But if your going LS, dakotas an vintage air might as well save some money an go with a universal one as you won't need all those factory connections anyhow.

Worst thing is getting a truck with a new harness then redoing it again because they used these ****** solderless connections everywhere that are falling apart toss those things if you have them please. Even if you get them to melt they still corrode badly.

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Looks like you do what I do, whether it is a crimp or solder butt splice, I still cover with heat shrink. I hope it doesn't corrode. If the wire gets tugged on I could see it coming apart, dunno.

 

[xm20k]

Looks like you do what I do, whether it is a crimp or solder butt splice, I still cover with heat shrink. I hope it doesn't corrode. If the wire gets tugged on I could see it coming apart, dunno.

Same. As much as I hate electrical work, I was kind of glad mine was as hacked as it was it gave me an excuse to just replace it all. Both under dash harness with modern box/fuses and engine harness after I pulled all the unnecessary junk out.

 

[Sgt Gus]

Any fixing takes forever. In the end, only YOU can appreciate the work you put into it. And someone else who has done that too, can smile when they see it!

 

[Grit dog]

American autowire kits come with more connectors than painless. But if your going LS, dakotas an vintage air might as well save some money an go with a universal one as you won't need all those factory connections anyhow.

Worst thing is getting a truck with a new harness then redoing it again because they used these ****** solderless connections everywhere that are falling apart toss those things if you have them please. Even if you get them to melt they still corrode badly.

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Interesting. Is that your example of why they are no good? I’m not seeing corrosion but am seeing way too short of a pigtail on the wire that pulled out.
Asking cuz I’ve only been using those solder shrink connectors for a few maybe 5 years now. Haven’t had issues, haven’t used on exposed to the elements daily drivers bathed in mud and road salt etc though.

 

[Grit dog]

Any connection will corrode when they are crimped like that. That one looks to have been crimped with an improper tool by a ham-****** baboon.

The slightest tear in the outer heat shrink sleeve will let moisture in.

*edit* Jebus, even "f!sted" is a naughty word?!

Apparently whomever decided which words get ***** is a sick ****….

 

[Grit dog]

Apparently whomever decided which words get ***** is a sick ****….

And also mOf0 is a bad word. But dumbass isn’t! Lol

 

[1STLS1]

I installed a Painless TBI harness on a 4.3L a number of years ago. It was pretty simple and straightforward, but I installed it in a '46 panel truck with a Camaro clip... so it was a complete new install.

But trying to integrate it into a truck that is already setup for TBI? I think it would be more trouble than it's worth, especially considering the cost involved. If the factory harness is in that bad of shape, a used harness in nicer shape would be a better option, imho.

A used harness for a one year only truck I want to think would be difficult to find but there is one listed on Ebay now. It's for a manual but should be able to add my stuff for the lock up converter and such. Something from a milder climate might have a chance but every time I touched a connector, it broke. Somewhere, someplace, somebody has new correct plastic connectors for sale, I haven't found them yet. There are GM part numbers for all of them, I just have to find them

The other issue was the fuel pump wiring, I have 8 volts going to it, hence the low fuel pressure. Not sure how many pumps have been installed in this truck but when I cut back the insulation near the pump connection, the wire was discolored, usually meaning it was overheated which builds resistance and creates the low voltage. What else is smoked that I can't see? What other wire was flexed a couple times over the 39 years and 2 or 3 strands inside are broken making that 16GA wire now a 18 or 20GA. You have continuity and you think everything is ok but it can't support the amps. That is what I am trying to avoid.

My thought was using an American Auto wire under hood harness for the starter, alt and gauges from an older truck and running the Painless for the TBI part.

An honest answer is once it started giving me any grief, I will start keeping my eyes open for a good donor. There are a bunch of LS and LT motor and transmission combinations under $2K locally