Good Lord, It's a couple of Fords (1964 Ford 2000 & 1949 8N)

[Turbo4whl]

I believe that happened in the late 80's or 90's.

Probably right. New Holland also picked up the service for the older Fords too. During my two year hiatus from working on the utility fleet, I worked for Modern Equipment. They were a New Holland dealer. Sent me out to fix old Fords too.

 

[idahovette]

You and your buddy sure effed up the alignment...........lol

 

[legopnuematic]

You and your buddy sure effed up the alignment...........lol

It just wants to be a sled pulling Duramax

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[Red Rex]

While you are at it you might want to change the clutch.

 

[legopnuematic]

Clutch and flywheel removed, block plate/shim removed (just like a ford automobile engine!), cam cover removed, gear removed.

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Got it on the engine stand. ~470lbs with the engine stand attached.

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The 3/4 camshaft

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Got the pan, timing cover/governor removed, remainder of cam pulled and lifters removed. Now will be a lot of cleaning and inspecting to determine what will need to be ordered/replaced.

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[legopnuematic]

So an empty trailer means trouble...

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I now own a 1949 (I think) 8N. My coworker had picked it up a while ago, got it running, and got fed up with it. Has a stuck clutch. He needed the money. $400 later it's mine. Got it running on the trailer for a few minutes.

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[bucket]

Got bit by the Ford tractor bug, huh?

 

[bluex]

Empty trailers are just like idle hands to the devil

 

[legopnuematic]

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When it’s running it runs pretty good. My coworker had rebuilt the carb, but I think he had the float level way too high or needle wasn’t sealing good or something. It will drip out of the air inlet of the carb sitting.

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Has decent oil pressure and charges.

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Going to get the carb cleaned up a little better and clean/check the points again and see if I can’t get the clutch to break free.

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It’s ok, I have my credentials to work on this stuff…

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[legopnuematic]

Gave the carb a quick going through, disassembled, blasted the body halves (it’s cast iron, not going to hurt it), found the float to be way, way high

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I will get a comprehensive carb kit for it as the mixture screws had been cranked down into their seats before by someone. It could use throttle shaft bushings.

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Then pulled the distributor and found the point gap was almost nothing. Adjusted to .015 and cleaned again

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Still has the combination wrench/fuel level gauge

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[legopnuematic]

With it still on the trailer, I removed my chains and binders, put it in 4th, C clamp holding the clutch pedal down, rocked it back and forth with the rear tire maybe five times and the clutch broke free. Rolled it off the trailer and got it started again and drove it around the lot for almost two hours.

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4th (road gear) on gravel is terrifying, it feels like 100 even though I believe top speed is 13mph. The brakes do “work” but take a ton of effort for almost no braking. I will have to investigate.

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Now for the not as good, it is incredibly hard starting, when it does start it comes right to life and runs ok. I went to put the trailer back and left it idling in front of the shop and right as I come back it’s sputtering and then died. Couldn’t get it to restart after that. I have a couple of theories.

Got it pushed into the shop, battery on the small automatic charger. Now it’s inside I can tinker with it a little and see if I can’t get it running and starting correctly.

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But I’m in it for $400 plus 5 gallons of 87 gas so far, so I can spend a little to get it right.

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Quite the assortment of stuff at the shop

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[legopnuematic]

And then on the 2000, I brought one of my dial bore gauges, mic and stand to measure the cylinders. Spec is .008 taper and .003 out of roundness for maximums, this measured at .004 taper. Going to hone and re-ring it. There is almost no ring tension.

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I made sure to not embezzle my bore gauge…

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My buddy ordered a bunch of parts so in the meantime get things cleaned and prepped.

 

[bucket]

I've never heard of the wrench/fuel gauge before. That's really cool. People back then sure weren't as needy as they are now.

 

[legopnuematic]

Tried some barkeepers friend on the hood and it took a lot of that surface rust/rust staining off.

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Still need to do the lower part of the hood and the fenders and wheels.

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I did get it to run again, I had swapped in the plugs from the 2000 after I cleaned them and it wouldn't do anything, then I swapped back in the crusty plugs I took out of the 8n and it came to life, go figure. I also removed one tappet cover and it still has the original non-adjustable lifters in it, looked reasonably clean behind 'door #1.' Non of my compression gauges would actually fit inbetween the gas tank, but one I was able to get crooked enough to get some reading and all 4 cylinders hit at 90psi or above even with a poor seal with the gauge.

I will likely do a valve job/assess things at some point as an upper gasket kit is sub $20, I already have flathead specific valve spring compressors, seat cutter if needed and lapping supplies.

 

[legopnuematic]

Found a mostly clean and not broken five gallon bucket, jacked it up enough to slip under and drained the hydraulic oil, the rear, hydraulic pump, and transmission all share the same sump and oil, three drain plugs though.

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I hope it was Hy-Tran or Mystic that was in it and that is why its red. Smelled like wet gear oil.

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The rear most drain plug is a pipe plug, then the other two are these large plugs, the one at the hydraulic pump had quite the goop on it.

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Made some new gaskets for them.

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