What have you done to your square lately??

82sbshortbed said:

This Trans fluid level is getting stupid! Friday i put in 6qts and then drove just around the block and checked it and wasn't even on the stick. Checked it today and it's way up on the stick. Just pulled it cold to check it. There's no cold mark just hot.

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It's all the way to the hump now. Wtf?

Should I fire it up and drive around the block again then check it? I don't wanna **** **** up by having too much in there. Why something so easy becomes a pita. Lol

Found this too

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Pretty sure my TC is full so I don't need to worry about that.

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The 4 quarts is going to be on a transmission that is just getting a fluid change. The 11 quarts would be a dry rebuild. Most of the fluid is inside the trans and doesn't come out on a pan drop and change. If you had the wrong fluid in it, I recommend you take it somewhere they can hook it up to a machine and get it flushed, otherwise you are only changing about 1/3rd of the fluid in the trans.

Sometimes there will be another little mark down farther below the "1 qt" marking on the stick that is for a cold fill level. It won't say anything on it, just a mark on the stick. You need to get out and drive the truck at least ~10 miles or more to get it to what I would consider a "hot" condition to check it.

Usually I would say fill to the bottom of the hash marks when cold if there isn't the cold mark mentioned above on the stick. Then drive around until hot and check again. Then fill to the full mark or close to it.

It's supposed to be a pretty cold February in Oregon even though it's been a mild winter so far, so I decided to finally try and hunt down why my defrost doesn't work right. Tore the dash apart and started looking at stuff. Fixed the plastic cover on the wiper switch that kept falling off and wedging the intermittent wipers in weird spots.

Finally traced a no vacuum condition as the culprit and traced it to the hard plastic line coming off of the vacuum canister in the engine bay. Hooked it back up and the defrost works like a champ now. The fan speed keeps switching around and cutting on/off randomly when I move around the HVAC control head, so I guess I'll order a new one of those and a new intermittent wiper switch from LMC to go in with the new gauge cluster when I do the swap.

Bextreme04 said:

The 4 quarts is going to be on a transmission that is just getting a fluid change. The 11 quarts would be a dry rebuild. Most of the fluid is inside the trans and doesn't come out on a pan drop and change. If you had the wrong fluid in it, I recommend you take it somewhere they can hook it up to a machine and get it flushed, otherwise you are only changing about 1/3rd of the fluid in the trans.

Sometimes there will be another little mark down farther below the "1 qt" marking on the stick that is for a cold fill level. It won't say anything on it, just a mark on the stick. You need to get out and drive the truck at least ~10 miles or more to get it to what I would consider a "hot" condition to check it.

Usually I would say fill to the bottom of the hash marks when cold if there isn't the cold mark mentioned above on the stick. Then drive around until hot and check again. Then fill to the full mark or close to it.

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When I poured the wrong in it was less than a quart. I never started it so the pump didn't suck it up into the Trans. Drained it out and put 6qts in of the right atf. Checked it before fired it up. Not on stick. Fired it up. Went through the gears paused for each one. Checked and not on stick. Dtove around the block. Checked in street. Not on the stick. Parked it because it was getting dark. It sat for day and half.

Checked it without starting in driveway and there it is way up on the stick to the hump. Now if it's supposed to be down on the tip of the stick cold. Why is it so high on the stick cold?

It's such an easy job that has turned out to be a pita. I'm afraid I have too much in there and don't want **** something up driving around with it too full. Think I might have to drain some out. Idk it's acting the opposite of what I've read and been told.

Should the level rise or drop after warming up?

82sbshortbed said:

When I poured the wrong in it was less than a quart. I never started it so the pump didn't suck it up into the Trans. Drained it out and put 6qts in of the right atf. Checked it before fired it up. Not on stick. Fired it up. Went through the gears paused for each one. Checked and not on stick. Dtove around the block. Checked in street. Not on the stick. Parked it because it was getting dark. It sat for day and half.

Checked it without starting in driveway and there it is way up on the stick to the hump. Now if it's supposed to be down on the tip of the stick cold. Why is it so high on the stick cold?

It's such an easy job that has turned out to be a pita. I'm afraid I have too much in there and don't want **** something up driving around with it too full. Think I might have to drain some out. Idk it's acting the opposite of what I've read and been told.

Should the level rise or drop after warming up?

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Transmission fluid expands as it heats up. Start your truck cold, check fluid level, add if necessary to the bottom of the cross hatch area on dip stick. Go on a test drive 10-15 miles to warm up the transmission fluid and check level again. This is where you bring fluid to the "full" mark by adding or draining fluid as required. Good luck

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bucket said:

I noticed a little wobble from the rear of my Burb the last few days. It turned out, one of my rear tires was separated. It was bald anyway. Really bald. Being cheap and still not wanting to buy tires for a truck with an uncertain future as a 2 wheeler, I installed the 35's that I found in a ditch a few months ago.

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Y'all can say what you want, I'm a cheap ass and I'm ok with that, lol.

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That is a level of cheapness that I’ve never experienced before.....

82sbshortbed said:

When I poured the wrong in it was less than a quart. I never started it so the pump didn't suck it up into the Trans. Drained it out and put 6qts in of the right atf. Checked it before fired it up. Not on stick. Fired it up. Went through the gears paused for each one. Checked and not on stick. Dtove around the block. Checked in street. Not on the stick. Parked it because it was getting dark. It sat for day and half.

Checked it without starting in driveway and there it is way up on the stick to the hump. Now if it's supposed to be down on the tip of the stick cold. Why is it so high on the stick cold?

It's such an easy job that has turned out to be a pita. I'm afraid I have too much in there and don't want **** something up driving around with it too full. Think I might have to drain some out. Idk it's acting the opposite of what I've read and been told.

Should the level rise or drop after warming up?

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Get one of those cheapo hand pump siphons from harbor freight.. they are $5. Then you can stick the tube down the dipstick hole and just suck the little bit out that is overfull. https://www.harborfreight.com/fluid-siphon-pump-62613.html

Broke the fender badge.

I had some moron crowd me and I got into the snow piled up by the plow. It went flying in all directions and ricocheted off the parked cars. Some of it came up vertically and broke one of the pins in the badge.

I miss my running board.



Nasty, heavy, wet cr@p.

I was very pleased with the truck though. It tracked perfectly straight through the upheaval.

I wonder what it would take to program these on an NC machine to make them from aluminum and have them color anodized? Probably cost more than the fender.

Blue Ox said:

Broke the fender badge.

I had some moron crowd me and I got into the snow piled up by the plow. It went flying in all directions and ricocheted off the parked cars. Some of it came up vertically and broke one of the pins in the badge.

I miss my running board.

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Nasty, heavy, wet cr@p.

I was very pleased with the truck though. It tracked perfectly straight through the upheaval.

I wonder what it would take to program these on an NC machine to make them from aluminum and have them color anodized? Probably cost more than the fender.

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That sucks... at least they make reproductions of your badges. My Sierra classic 25 badges are hard to find and expensive as heck when you do find them.

Blue Ox said:

Broke the fender badge.

I had some moron crowd me and I got into the snow piled up by the plow. It went flying in all directions and ricocheted off the parked cars. Some of it came up vertically and broke one of the pins in the badge.

I miss my running board.

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Nasty, heavy, wet cr@p.

I was very pleased with the truck though. It tracked perfectly straight through the upheaval.

I wonder what it would take to program these on an NC machine to make them from aluminum and have them color anodized? Probably cost more than the fender.

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I know the custom billet badges range from like $125/pr on up


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TotalyHucked said:

I know the custom billet badges range from like $125/pr on up


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That's around the low end of what I was guessing. If the programming and fixturing was done there could be a lot of interesting custom options for color and finish. I wish I had an NC machine.

bigcountry78 said:

That is a level of cheapness that I’ve never experienced before.....

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It ain't for everybody, lol. I'll tell ya what though, in this case, I've been loving every minute of it. I've got gobs of traction, they ride nice and smooth and I kinda dig the crazy ass look.

Plus, I do get some enjoyment knowing that almost nobody would have done the same thing and I chose to anyway.

I'm really starting to ******* hate this Trans fluid level saga!! Ok I fired it up checked it and not touching stick. So I think. Do I have the wrong stick?

I have the old th350 on the garage floor. So I take out that one to compare the two. The one I was using was 26" and the other was 28 3/4" long.





Googled the length of the dipstick and said 27". Then saw one at summit that was 34". Then remembered i had another one in the garage and it measures 32".



I have NO IDEA which one is right. Is Google right at 27"? Idk.


If someone could do me a big favor and measure their th350 stick for me, I'd really appreciate it. I measure just the metal stick and not to the cap.

This simple job has really ended up a royal pain in my ass!! I can't afford to run it too full and **** it up. It's not cavitation by the pump because you can definitely hear that if the pump was starving for fluid.

Because when I stuck the longer ones it there,
of course it showed up past the hot mark and it was cold. Thanks for any help.

Bextreme04 said:

That sucks... at least they make reproductions of your badges. My Sierra classic 25 badges are hard to find and expensive as heck when you do find them.

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What about 3 printing them? Hell not a bad idea for a business. Hmm....gotta side reason to get one for work

Camar068 said:

What about 3 printing them? Hell not a bad idea for a business. Hmm....gotta side reason to get one for work

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82sbshortbed said:

I'm really starting to ******* hate this Trans fluid level saga!! Ok I fired it up checked it and not touching stick. So I think. Do I have the wrong stick?

I have the old th350 on the garage floor. So I take out that one to compare the two. The one I was using was 26" and the other was 28 3/4" long.

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Googled the length of the dipstick and said 27". Then saw one at summit that was 34". Then remembered i had another one in the garage and it measures 32".

You must be registered for see images attach

I have NO IDEA which one is right. Is Google right at 27"? Idk.


If someone could do me a big favor and measure their th350 stick for me, I'd really appreciate it. I measure just the metal stick and not to the cap.

This simple job has really ended up a royal pain in my ass!! I can't afford to run it too full and **** it up. It's not cavitation by the pump because you can definitely hear that if the pump was starving for fluid.

Because when I stuck the longer ones it there,
of course it showed up past the hot mark and it was cold. Thanks for any help.

Click to expand...

If you are going to pull the pan to drain any possible overfill condition it is super easy to find out which one is correct. Here's a video on it, but basically you want to make sure the "full hot" mark on the dipstick is 1/4" above the pan sealing surface. With that big of a difference in length, one of them will be the right length and the other will either be hitting the bottom of the pan, or not sticking out of the dipstick tube at all.

Bextreme04 said:

If you are going to pull the pan to drain any possible overfill condition it is super easy to find out which one is correct. Here's a video on it, but basically you want to make sure the "full hot" mark on the dipstick is 1/4" above the pan sealing surface. With that big of a difference in length, one of them will be the right length and the other will either be hitting the bottom of the pan, or not sticking out of the dipstick tube at all.

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