Good Lord, It's a couple of Fords (1964 Ford 2000 & 1949 8N)

[legopnuematic]

Played around with the headlights and found that they both do work, the wiring is long gone. I did some very temporary wiring to make them operational for now. I'll get a reproduction harness for them.

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[bucket]

Universal tractor trans fluid often has a bit of a red color to it. It could be a mixture of tractor trans, gear oil and moisture.

A lot of Ford guys run tractor trans fluid in everything, except the engine of course.

 

[legopnuematic]

Made some good progress yesterday. Got the deck surface cleaned up, checked with a straight edge along the block, across, diagonal, couldn’t get a .0015 feeler gauge under it anywhere. Hopefully the head is as flat.

Deglazed/dingleballed the cylinders, 20 strokes, wipe, then 5 finishing strokes. Wheeled it out and used a pneumatic engine cleaning gun with some diesel to wash everything out

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Then back inside to dry it off and gave the crank a very light 1200 grit ‘polish.’ Pistons were cleaned up along with the ring grooves with my ring groove scraper. New rings installed on pistons. Moly applied to lifter faces and assembly lube on the journal. Slipped the cam in. Pistons installed. Before you could turn the rotating assembly with literally zero effort, way more resistance now with the fresh wall and new rings (in a good way). Rod caps torqued.

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At work I make rivet swaging tools, one style is with a .401 shank for air hammers, I had a couple extra that had been heat treated, so I turned one down to use as a driver for R&Ring the valve guides.

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Worked great to remove them. Hopefully the install works just as well.

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[squaredeal91]

Great thread! I have done quite a bit to these old tractors and have a 2N and power master 800 myself. The only fords allowed in the fleet lol. They are fun to work on and not too expensive. Any plans for paint or touch up?

 

[legopnuematic]

Great thread! I have done quite a bit to these old tractors and have a 2N and power master 800 myself. The only fords allowed in the fleet lol. They are fun to work on and not too expensive. Any plans for paint or touch up?

Thank you. The parts availability and fairly reasonable cost is definitely a nice thing about these. Especially the N tractors. Got any pictures of your two?

I have no plans at the moment for painting my 8N, just going to clean it up with barkeepers friend to get the algae and rust staining off. I plan to beyond normal maintenance, just fix things as needed.

The 2000 had received a partial repaint in the past, the main issue is I think they used the later New Holland Ford blue instead of the earlier Ford corporate blue, so the hood and stuff in contrast to the original blue is almost Smurf like. Kind of has a purple hue to it. The plan is to strip and repaint hood and other Smurf colored stuff to the correct blue. Otherwise just clean it and run it as is.

 

[squaredeal91]

Ill try to get pics later. Tisco and others have the gray paint. But I found rustoleum has one called pewter gray that looks really good on these. New Holland owns the rights to the Ford tractors and colors I believe. Do you know what year they went blue?

 

[squaredeal91]

Here's the 2. That's ones close to the home lol on the engine the code says it was born March 5th 1947

 

[legopnuematic]

Ill try to get pics later. Tisco and others have the gray paint. But I found rustoleum has one called pewter gray that looks really good on these. New Holland owns the rights to the Ford tractors and colors I believe. Do you know what year they went blue?

1962 is when they went to Corporate blue, then 1965 the blue changed again is my understanding. Andy (bucket) had mentioned that Ford dealers in the early 60s offered a program that they would repaint an older red tractor to blue to make it look updated.

Going to use Van Sickle paint, I actually have a whole gallon of old ford grey I had bought for a bandsaw but ended up using Ferguson grey.

These photos illustrate how different the colors are:

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[legopnuematic]

Here's the 2. That's ones close to the home lol on the engine the code says it was born March 5th 1947

Nice! It even has the pto cover still.

 

[squaredeal91]

The 2n sits because it has #1 dead cylinder. Found these of the power master doing what it does. I use this tractor allot.

 

[Turbo4whl]

Then pulled the distributor and found the point gap was almost nothing. Adjusted to .015 and cleaned again

I believe that distributor is missing the condenser. The condenser helps to keep the points from arcing, then you get less metal transfer from one point to the other. Less carbon build up too.

 

[legopnuematic]

I believe that distributor is missing the condenser. The condenser helps to keep the points from arcing, then you get less metal transfer from one point to the other. Less carbon build up too.

Condenser is present, it's tucked out of the way on these front distributors.

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[legopnuematic]

The fun is really just beginning with the 2000. While it’s split it’s the perfect time to put a throw out bearing in, pilot bearing, transmission input seals, etc.

The throw out bearing he ordered is for a 4 speed, so it’s wrong, input seals is wrong, the two seals we need only say C/R (Chicago Rawhide I’d assume) and FoMoCo, no part number, find the old numbers in a parts catalog, can’t cross reference to anything, find old forum posts with part numbers that are no good or wrong parts.

I think we finally figured out some suitable parts.

Then discovered the input shaft retainer is cracked in numerous places.

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Luckily, and perhaps ironically, this is available, but the seal that goes into it isn’t (or a direct fit/application specific one isn’t).

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Knocked out the old valve guides, quick hone in the bores, cleaned the chambers and installed the new guides.

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Lapped the new valves in. Really having a valve and valve seat grinder would have been best to do a ‘proper’ valve job. It’ll work though.

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Head assembled and reinstalled onto the block.

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Back to waiting on parts.

 

[Sgt Gus]

Tried some barkeepers friend on the hood and it took a lot of that surface rust/rust staining off.

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Still need to do the lower part of the hood and the fenders and wheels.

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I did get it to run again, I had swapped in the plugs from the 2000 after I cleaned them and it wouldn't do anything, then I swapped back in the crusty plugs I took out of the 8n and it came to life, go figure. I also removed one tappet cover and it still has the original non-adjustable lifters in it, looked reasonably clean behind 'door #1.' Non of my compression gauges would actually fit inbetween the gas tank, but one I was able to get crooked enough to get some reading and all 4 cylinders hit at 90psi or above even with a poor seal with the gauge.

I will likely do a valve job/assess things at some point as an upper gasket kit is sub $20, I already have flathead specific valve spring compressors, seat cutter if needed and lapping supplies.

What are using on the surface rust?

 

[legopnuematic]

Now for the not as good, it is incredibly hard starting

An update to this, it has been starting just fine now. I suspect it had some carbon buildup or deposits in the chamber, flatheads seem to like to do that, broke free and got stuck in the valves. Screenshot from a video on YT showing that type of buildup:

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I’m guessing from running it and heat cycling it got the crud worked out and seal up the chambers. Starts consistently now, fuel on, throttle 1/4-1/2, key on, hit button and pull choke for a second while cranking and comes to life. Governor works well and feels strong. Hard to say without really being able to truly work it.