Wanted C20-or C30

[Blackdog3]

Hey Gang, I am looking for a 81-87 C20 or C30 truck. I have a spare frame and axles lying around from my attempt of restoring a 81 K20. I scraped everything because the body was so bad and need a complete truck with a title.! Keep you eyes peeled!

Thanks

Chris

 

[89Suburban]

Keep an eye on the CL thread dude, if I see anything from around here I will post it. Me and the daughter were on there yesterday looking for c-10;s, k-10's and k5's. I am trying to brain wash her, lol. Didn;t look for anything heavier than a half ton at the time.

 

[Blackdog3]

I have been looking John on CL... its rough because people dont list stuff properly. I was looking at a C10 from delware for 600 bucks but i really want a higher gvw truck to match the K20 frame.

Chris

 

[RetroC10Sport]

What is your price range?

If you were able to get a rust free $300-500 truck from here shipped there or able to just come get it, you would probably be money ahead than trying to fix a rust pile from up there unless you get lucky.

 

[davbell22602]

Shaggy might sell his c30 dually to ya.

 

[Blackdog3]

It all depends on the price... 300-500 bucks sounds great! IT would awesome if the thing ran before swapped the bodies over... might make it easier. I know texas is a long trip, but it might be meant to be... considering i just bought a big tex 10K trailer! Either way keep you eyes posted!

 

[RetroC10Sport]

You got it. With scrap prices up, they've been hard to find, but not impossible. I have seen quite a few C20s and 30s for under $500 though.

 

[davbell22602]

You got it. With scrap prices up, they've been hard to find, but not impossible. I have seen quite a few C20s and 30s for under $500 though.

Not in my town. Cheapest I seen a squarebody truck in any weight is $500.

 

[HotRodPC]

So you're wanting to swap a C20 or C30 body to your 8 K20 frame? So any body, C10 thru C30 should work right? And even K10-K30 would work too shouldn't it? I hope you kept the center hump out of your 81 K20 cab. You'll need it if you're puting a C cab on your K frame. Higher hump on the K models to make room for the T case so you'd have to cut the K hump out of the truck to weld in the C cab.

 

[Blackdog3]

Ah damn it, I didnt keep it... But i figured I would try to get a C20 or C30 for the higher GVW... emission exempt . IF i got a body lift would that help not having that center hump deal.

Chris

 

[HotRodPC]

Ah damn it, I didnt keep it... But i figured I would try to get a C20 or C30 for the higher GVW... emission exempt . IF i got a body lift would that help not having that center hump deal.

Chris

Ahh yes, you know exactly what you're doing as far as the C20. I am doing the exact same thing. I have a K10 and I am swaping a C20 cab onto the frame that I have the title for. This gets me away from having a Cat too, so even if OK does go to emissions testing, I am in the clear. I also intend to run the 8 lug axles and 14b full float rear end.
Yes, if you do a body lift you can get by without the high hump, but keep in mind it'll make your T case shifter a long reach which usually isn't a bid deal, and you could actually extend or modify the shifter stick too.


This 85K10 I have, I've been told it's worth gold in CA cuz it was originally a 6.2 Diesal and Diesal is exempt from smog in CA. I do have the title to that cab but its been signed and not notarized, so I'd be better off to pay the $100 for a Title 42 and get all new paperwork on it to bring it current. Its normally $50, but this vehicle is titled in KS, so its $50 more for an out of state vehicle. If I thought I could really get gold for it, then I'd pay the $100 to get it done, but who knows. I just know for now the plan is to put the 85 C20 cab on the 85K10 frame.

 

[Camo]

body lift helps But the center hump is the right way to go. I had to weld in the center hump in the crew in my signature. Took about 30 minutes. better than body lift.

 

[HotRodPC]

body lift helps But the center hump is the right way to go. I had to weld in the center hump in the crew in my signature. Took about 30 minutes. better than body lift.

A agree, the center hump is the best way to go. Maybe you can cut one out with cordless saw at a Pull a Part.

 

[Blackdog3]

Dont they on bolt also> It seemed the one in that 81 K20 i scrapped did? Unless it was special.

 

[HotRodPC]

Not all do, but I have seen that are bolt on. I don't know what depicts if it got bolt on or not. Whether it was Manual trans 4x4, or all manual trans 2 and 4 wheel, or if it was just paticular years or not. Have no clue, but the bolt ons are nice, but I have seen enough of them to call them common. More common to see the hump is just part of the cab.