New/used transmission.

[crazy4offroad]

When working with cement blocks (DONT use actual "cinder blocks") have the open cores facing up, and put a board on top. I use 2x8s cut to the same size as the block. Then you could use your jack stands on top of them if you set them right, with wood in between. Heavy metal against cement blocks = fail. Good luck!

 

[HotRodPC]

When working with cement blocks (DONT use actual "cinder blocks") have the open cores facing up, and put a board on top. I use 2x8s cut to the same size as the block. Then you could use your jack stands on top of them if you set them right, with wood in between. Heavy metal against cement blocks = fail. Good luck!

Yep, that oughta work. Never put a jack stand directly on the block. The metal edges will dig in, score the block then break it. And as stated open cores up. Its stronger that way with the sheer strength going up and down. Good Point C4.

 

[Irishman999]

Im not going to put the jack stands on the blocks, just under the tires. My niebor and I worked on it for about an hour today trying to get the cross over pipe and discovered that only one hanger was holding the exhaust, decided to pull entire system (his idea).

God bless him for climbing under this nasty truck and helping me but the exhaust system is getting hacked right after the muffler so it will come out. Im posting because its cold outside and the only way I could convince myself to go out in the cold and work on this piece of **** is to get a really good buzz going and I am on a beer break.

Hopefully tonight I can get the exhaust out and in the bed of the truck, so if someone from the HOA shows up they don't see parts hanging under the truck and suspect it does not run.

With the cross over pipe gone hopefully I can break loose the remaining 3 bolts going into the bell housing and that bitch is ready to come out.

EDIT: My god damn arm is so sore from hacksawing.

This sucks working at night.

 

[Irishman999]

One of three exhaust studs holding on the collecter broke on the left side, It sheared off in the threads. Any suggestions on what I could possibly do now?

 

[HotRodPC]

Are you talking about the studs on the exhaust manifold? Are there any threads at all left sticking out?

 

[Irishman999]

Are you talking about the studs on the exhaust manifold? Are there any threads at all left sticking out?

Yea the three that stick out of the bottom, It broke off inside the hole. Probibly no way to get it out without a drill huh....

 

[HotRodPC]

Yea the three that stick out of the bottom, It broke off inside the hole. Probibly no way to get it out without a drill huh....

Hate when that happens. Unless your very careful, and lucky, you're likely going to end up drilling it out and tapping if for a new stud. I've been here twice in my life and had to drill and tap both times.

 

[crazy4offroad]

If the stud hole looks like it will pass all the way through the manifold flange, I have drilled them all the way through and just used a high-grade 1/4" or 3/8" bolt (one about 4-6" long). Kinda a pain in the ass to get tight but not as bad as trying to tap it out in place, or taking it off to tap it out.

 

[Irishman999]

I think maybe I will try to drill it out from the top, not likely since I dont know anyone with a drill. I have a drill but its 1000 miles away.

Will the exhaust manifold off a 350 fit my 305 heads? Im thinking about just grabbing one out of pic-n-pull.

 

[HotRodPC]

I think maybe I will try to drill it out from the top, not likely since I dont know anyone with a drill. I have a drill but its 1000 miles away.

Will the exhaust manifold off a 350 fit my 305 heads? Im thinking about just grabbing one out of pic-n-pull.

It will bolt on the head, but proably dump in a differant location which means exhaust shop work. You ever get to OKC, or know anyone who comes this way? I have some 305 exhaust manifolds you can have. I do believe the studs are still in good shape. They are off a truck I bought with a couple rods thru the block and pan. I sold the heads and kept all the good parts for those who need them.

 

[HotRodPC]

OH hell, I got you confused with the guys from Easten OK. Sorry. But, if shipping is reasonable for you, take a pic of yours, I'll take a pic of mine, we'll compare the 2 and I'll ship one too you if shipping is reasonable enough for you to cover.

 

[HotRodPC]

I went out to the shed, and I do still have the driver side. I assume that is what you meant when you said left side. I also have the passenger side too. I brough it in for pics. This is it. The threads look good but rusty of course. I can run a die over the threads to clean them up and make sure its all good before shipping if you want. No cracks, appears to be fully functional. I'd be sure to use brass nuts when putting this back together. That helps tremendously when you don't want to break threads if you weren't aware. The brass is much softer, and will just strip out and come loose rather than seize to the stud then you break the stud. It should be the law in the auto world and for new cars too, to always use brass nuts on exhaust, egr and smog tubes.

 

[HotRodPC]

Got a little bored and found a Rno Zip Code of 85902. Although maybe not yours, it still going to be the same zone. It appears USPS Parcel post of 6 days would be about $18, and same for UPS Ground for 3 days, and USPS Priority about about $34. So UPS ground would be the way to go, if you can hold off til Friday on the manifold, and I'll get it out by Tuesday. If you got a PayPal account, you can send me $20 to cover shipping and my PayPal fee and I'll get it on the way. I'm sure I also have some manifold gaskets too. I normally used headrers back in the day, so I had several sets of exhuast manifold gaskets left over. I think I still know where they are.

 

[Irishman999]

Hell yea dude I owe you one! I really did not want to drive over to sparks and pay to get in their ****** wrecking yard. Im not sure about my paypal but I know for sure My wife's is current.

I was going to try and pull my transmission today and stab the new one today but it was way to rainy. Hopefully tomorrow if its dry out I will get everything buttoned up and can pull off that exhaust manifold to compare. Dont worry about the threads or anything I will just wire brush the hell out of it and spray with pb. Its just got to last a little while until I could buy a pair of some headers.

Tomorrow I will call the wrecking yard and see what they want for a single header, you might not have to even bother with the box and shipping and all that crap but thanks alot man!

 

[HotRodPC]

Just let me know. I have boxes and shredded paper around here, and the UPS drop center is only about 15 minutes away and I think if you paid the shipping via my PayPal, it will allow me to print the label from here and dedcut it from my PayPal account and then just drop it off or throw it on a brown truck I see cruising thru the neighborhood.
This manifold is off an 81 with 305,Auto trans and AC, so I'd think if anything would be differant, it would probably be that your 85 might have AIR (Air Injection Reactor) aka Smog Pump holes tapped in it, and this one does not although the bosses are there, just were never tapped. You should be able to tell pretty quick by the pics if its the one or not. Also might check the condition of your passenger side too. I have both, and being UPS, I doubt its that much more to send the second one if shipped in the same box. I know it won't be double the cost, maybe $10 more or so.