I think a rod spun a bearing in my rebuilt 454

[txaggie]

Only 4k miles post the machine shop rebuild and knocking started while driving on the highway yesterday. Pulled over and the bearing screech started. I’m really upset about it.

What a pain in the butt and wallet.

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[Edelbrock]

Are you sure its not that rusty bolt causing the problem?

 

[Edelbrock]

But all jokes aside - if it's a spun bearing, you might be able to drop the pan and replace the bearing without pulling the motor or doing a full rebuild.

 

[txaggie]

But all jokes aside - if it's a spun bearing, you might be able to drop the pan and replace the bearing without pulling the motor or doing a full rebuild.

My issue is that I paid a shop for a full rebuild and already had issues with the heads. They refunded me for that and I went with aluminum heads instead of trusting them to fix them. Now s bearing is spun and whose to say it won’t happen with other bearings.

 

[Edelbrock]

Will they warranty it or refund it?

Change all 8 while you are in there if you are really worried about the other bearings.

 

[77Dmax]

But all jokes aside - if it's a spun bearing, you might be able to drop the pan and replace the bearing without pulling the motor or doing a full rebuild.

That won't work. That rod and it's partner will need resized and the crank will need turned.

To the OP- Unfortunate turn of events. You'll have to tear it down and determine what caused the failure. 4k miles is nothing. I'd guess it was not properly cleaned before assembly.

 

[nvrenuf]

But all jokes aside - if it's a spun bearing, you might be able to drop the pan and replace the bearing without pulling the motor or doing a full rebuild.

It’s not that easy. Throwing a bearing in it might make it quiet for a minute but you haven’t diagnosed the reason for the failure. If you don’t fix the root of the problem it will happen again and next time might damage more parts.

 

[Turbo4whl]

But all jokes aside - if it's a spun bearing, you might be able to drop the pan and replace the bearing without pulling the motor or doing a full rebuild.

Won't get the pan off a rat in a 2WD truck, maybe 4W. As others stated, spun bearing usually tares up the crank journal.

@txaggie Hope the shop makes good for you.

 

[fast 99]

Feel your pain. After installing literally hundreds of engines I have come to the conclusion rebuilt engines are a crap shoot. For a time every rebuilt engine I installed had one issue or another. Some minor others requiring replacement. Factory rebuilt or new was better. All you can do is muddle on.

 

[Edelbrock]

I have know old school mechanics that would replace just the bad bearing, and polish the crank. They said its not a good fix for every engine, but with any luck the crank is not damaged. Only way to find out is to pull the pan and check. I have never tried it myself, but I can say that I have seen it done successfully. As for rebuilt engines being a crap shoot - I agree. As opposed to rebuilding my engine, I would always just find a good used replacement that that good compression, oil pressure etc. At least you know that its a good running engine, and not as much of a gamble a as rebuild.

 

[Ricko1966]

I have know old school mechanics that would replace just the bad bearing, and polish the crank. They said its not a good fix for every engine, but with any luck the crank is not damaged. Only way to find out is to pull the pan and check. I have never tried it myself, but I can say that I have seen it done successfully. As for rebuilt engines being a crap shoot - I agree. As opposed to rebuilding my engine, I would always just find a good used replacement that that good compression, oil pressure etc. At least you know that its a good running engine, and not as much of a gamble a as rebuild.

The big end of the rod eggs out. The bearing shell doesn't have proper interference,and it doesn't last. And the shop I was out we did thousands of rebuilds and I am absolutey certain we had less than a 1 percent failure rate.

 

[txaggie]

The big end of the rod eggs out. The bearing shell doesn't have proper interference,and it doesn't last. And the shop I was out we did thousands of rebuilds and I am absolutey certain we had less than a 1 percent failure rate.

That’s my issue. This shop already had to refund me for bad head work on the same install. Looks like they can either refund me for labor to pull this out, replace gaskets, fix it, or give me my original money back and I’ll go elsewhere. I’m gonna vote for the latter.

 

[Ricko1966]

That’s my issue. This shop already had to refund me for bad head work on the same install. Looks like they can either refund me for labor to pull this out, replace gaskets, fix it, or give me my original money back and I’ll go elsewhere. I’m gonna vote for the latter.

I don't know if this a fact or just my opinion, but we did our own machine work,we didn't send anything out or buy reconditioned stuff elsewhere. That might be why we didn't have any problems,because we weren't counting or taking for granted that someone else had done the machine work correctly,cleaned everything,resized the big ends etc.plus we knew the condition of our equipment,how and when everything was set up and when it was last checked..We knew what brands worked and that's all we used. If you went to an average garage they probably do none of their own machine work and who knows where or what parts they source. I'd take the engine to a reputable machine shop,and have them build it.

 

[Edelbrock]

How much was the original bill for the whole rebuild?

 

[txaggie]

How much was the original bill for the whole rebuild?

Labor was $3200 and parts was $2600 ($5800 all in for a complete long block).

Looks like now it will be more. If I have to replace all bearings due to metal contamination, piston potential replacement, rods, and maybe crank.