Help! Engine idling WAY too fast

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guitarfreak235

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Ok so I've replaced all of my exhaust and put headers in. Got everything back together and it's idling insanely fast. Not quite redline but on up there like 2 or 3k? Maybe less. Not sure but it's ridiculous. Any ideas what the problem is? I removed all the smog stuff and capped te vacuum lines where necessary. Could it be a vacuum issue? Perhaps I have better/worse vacuum than before? Or what? All I an think of is vacuum issues or something got stuck. Help please I can't drive anywhere till its fixed
 

83swb

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Is she carb'd? I know absolutely nothing about quadrajets but If it were me I'd find the idle adjustment and play around with it a little to see if you gain/lose anything :confused: Maybe check also if your throttle cable/return spring is coming in contact with anything...
 

bucket

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Check for a throttle that fully closes and start looking for vacuum leaks (like a hose that was left off).
 

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It's a carbed truck. I'll check the vacuum stuff but a vacuum leak shouldn't be enough to pull 2 or 3k... I'm starting to think that the throttle cable is caught or kinked on something
 

bucket

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It's a carbed truck. I'll check the vacuum stuff but a vacuum leak shouldn't be enough to pull 2 or 3k... I'm starting to think that the throttle cable is caught or kinked on something

It can if it's a big one like the brake booster hose.
 

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The changes you recently made - modifications to the stock exhaust - would not have any appreciable effect on idle speed. Definitely not to the degree you decribe.

Above normal idle is often associated with air leakage - specifically downstream of the throttle plates. But again, even a massive air leak wouldn't cause a idle speed increase up to the 2-3K range.

If it's a carbureted engine, I'd look at:

1. External problems (e.g. twisted/kinked throttle cable, bent or jammed linkage components, maybe even recheck that the throttle return spring is hooked up and in the correct place). To eliminate anything on the outside of the carb as the problem, disco the throttle cable and spring. Then with the engine running, use your hand to regulate engine speed. If rotating the throttle shaft to fully closed (CCW) doesn't bring the engine speed down you'll have to look inside.

2. Internal - with the engine off and air cleaner removed, open the choke butterfly and look down into the carb throat. The throttle plates should be fully closed. Rotate the throttle shaft open (CW) and observe that they open - and then snap shut by the return spring when you release the linkage.

I don't think a stuck choke would cause 2500 rpm but make sure the butterfly is wide open when the engine is warm.


If you have a stock Rochester Q-jet, pull it and look at it fro the underside. Any fuel dripping out? There are many reports of cracked float bowls that allow an unregulated supply of gas into the manifold.

I am certainly no expert on Q-jet problems but I'm sure someone can offer more help.
 

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It should be easy to determine if the throttle plates are closed, the primary shaft has the idle stop screw that should be in contact with the bellcrank and you can look down the secondary and see if the throttle plates are closed.(Engine off) you need to physicaly open the upper air plates to look down in. the secondarys work independently of the primarys and I have seen therm hang open when you say I removed "All the Smog Stuff" what all did you remove??? GH
 

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The air pump and all related hoses. Also the little valve thing on the passenger side manifold
 

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Just keep removing ****...oh wait a minute, thats how you got here...LOL
Take the carburetor off, and then start it...maybe it wont idle so high then.
Make sure you plug the fuel line too....doesnt matter, you dont need it for inspection.
 

roadtriper

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The air pump and all related hoses. Also the little valve thing on the passenger side manifold

AFAIK nothing in the Air Inj system or the heat riser valve would have an adverse effect on Idle. the EGR Valve and PCV valve both have sufficient Vacuum sources to cause a high idle if they were compromised. if it was idling ok before the mods and then had the severe high idle after? I'd retrace your steps and see if you disrupted something if it's an open vac source you should hear a tremendous sucking sound! unless of course you havent yet connected the exhaust to the new headers :)
 

crazy4offroad

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Just keep removing ****...oh wait a minute, thats how you got here...LOL
Take the carburetor off, and then start it...maybe it wont idle so high then.
Make sure you plug the fuel line too....doesnt matter, you dont need it for inspection.

Are you drunk?
 

guitarfreak235

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Just keep removing ****...oh wait a minute, thats how you got here...LOL
Take the carburetor off, and then start it...maybe it wont idle so high then.
Make sure you plug the fuel line too....doesnt matter, you dont need it for inspection.

shiiiit... i didnt think of that!! good thing we dont have emissions testing or theyd get me for that one ;)
 

guitarfreak235

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AFAIK nothing in the Air Inj system or the heat riser valve would have an adverse effect on Idle. the EGR Valve and PCV valve both have sufficient Vacuum sources to cause a high idle if they were compromised. if it was idling ok before the mods and then had the severe high idle after? I'd retrace your steps and see if you disrupted something if it's an open vac source you should hear a tremendous sucking sound! unless of course you havent yet connected the exhaust to the new headers :)

yes all of the problems started after i redid the exhaust
 

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