8.1 vortec into 1979 k30

[Lu Blunt]

I got the engine out with no problems

 

[Lu Blunt]

My 8.1 has been at the machine shop since Dec 2nd. Slow process but the shop is local and they have no problem warranty the rebuild even though I’m installing the engine in my driveway. Best guess for engine failure is that there was lapping compound left in the bearings. The 8.1 had been apart before and has new silvo-lite pistons for stock bore. I will have the block cleaned n bored .010-.030 over depending on piston choice. The stock cast pistons have gone up in price and are back ordered. I’m considering wiseco forged pistons. They allow for high lift cam but I don’t want to give up low end torque. Not sure which cam to go with. Heads are in good shape and will be gone through. I will be modifying the factory intake. Any advice or recommendations for the rebuild parts would be welcome

 

[Bextreme04]

My 8.1 has been at the machine shop since Dec 2nd. Slow process but the shop is local and they have no problem warranty the rebuild even though I’m installing the engine in my driveway. Best guess for engine failure is that there was lapping compound left in the bearings. The 8.1 had been apart before and has new silver-lite pistons for stock bore. I will have the block cleaned n bored .010-.030 over depending on piston choice. The stock cast pistons have gone up in price and are back ordered. I’m considering wiseco forged pistons. They allow for high lift cam but I don’t want to give up low end torque. Not sure which cam to go with. Heads are in good shape and will be gone through. I will be modifying the factory intake. Any advice or recommendations for the rebuild parts would be welcome

I wouldn't even bother buying a new cam. The stock cam is probably the best quality billet start you could get. I'd send the stock cam off to Delta Camshaft in Tacoma, WA or a similar local reputable cam manufacturer and have it reground to what you want.

Alternatively, the ZZ502 cam is popular.. as well as Raylar. Richard Holdener apparently sells a budget one now as well that made 610 lb-ft and has near stock idle.

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[Hunter79764]

My selfish vote is for the Richard Holdener cam, so you can report back to us how it goes before I install my 8.1 later this year... But otherwise, yep, the Raylar or the ZZ502 are pretty much the other options for one, I haven't heard of anyone unhappy with Raylar other than with the price. ZZ502 used to be relatively dirt cheap, but I don't know if that is the truth anymore, probably why RHP got into making his.

 

[Jrgunn5150]

If I had a mild 8.1, the RHP cam is what I would choose at the moment. Like all things, balancing cost, effectiveness. It's the best bang for the buck unless you can find a used 502 cam for less.

 

[bucket]

If I had a mild 8.1, the RHP cam is what I would choose at the moment. Like all things, balancing cost, effectiveness. It's the best bang for the buck unless you can find a used 502 cam for less.

I was not aware of the RHP cam until now. It's very enticing.

I should quit reading the internet. I was all content to drop my 100% stock, clean and non-leaking 8.1 into the truck. But now there's this affordable cam that makes 40 more hp and doesn't give anything up down low. But NOW I'm seriously considering a cam, which also means gaskets and valve springs. Dammit, lol.

 

[Hunter79764]

I was not aware of the RHP cam until now. It's very enticing.

I should quit reading the internet. I was all content to drop my 100% stock, clean and non-leaking 8.1 into the truck. But now there's this affordable cam that makes 40 more hp and doesn't give anything up down low. But NOW I'm seriously considering a cam, which also means gaskets and valve springs. Dammit, lol.

This is why I want someone to do it and report back, I'm in a very similar boat...

 

[Lu Blunt]

Rebuild estimate is about $6k with new cast pistons and $7k with new forged pistons and rods. Aftermarket cam and valve springs will be extra

 

[Lu Blunt]

I decided to go with wiseco forged pistons and eagle h beam forged rods with arp bolts. Definitely overkill for a stock rebuild but while the 8.1 is apart I think it’s a solid upgrade over the cast pistons and oem rods. Plus it’ll allow me to upgrade cam later on without any piston to valve clearance issues

https://www.wiseco.com/shop/auto/pistons/pro-tru-street-chevy-big-block-piston-set-4-280-in-bore-5/?srsltid=AfmBOopU_eapoB0gXnLKqLbwapcezheF8-GM3SZh206c6tAWnNmhFx4v

 

[Lu Blunt]

I stopped by the machine shop yesterday. My 8.1 should be finished in a week or two. Said he’s waiting on a couple things including the new melling oil pump. The whole engine has be dissembled and cleaned. The block has been bored n honed, heads have been resurfaced and had a complete valve job done. The oem crank was ground and polished. We tried to use only oem quality or better parts including gm performance lifters @ $40 each and wiseco pistons n eagle forged rods. I will be re-using the oem intake and cam. My thinking is do the forged bottom end while it’s apart. And later I can do bolt-on upgrades like the raylar intake, heads n cam when the budget allows. RHP cam is cool but not much hp for the money when you consider all the parts that need to be changed with the cam. Attached is a parts list to do a similar comp cam in an 8.1. Prices and availability were from a few years ago so more expensive now.

 

[Lu Blunt]

…

 

[Lu Blunt]

I got the engine back home. Can’t wait to fire up the 8.1 vortec. I’m also working on an instagram for my trucks. I’ll be able to post videos n more pics there.

https://www.instagram.com/theshortcutroad?igsh=MWluM3VhZTFnZWNrNg%3D%3D&utm_source=qr