What have you done to your square lately??

[TotalyHucked]

Well I'll be.....

https://www.3m.com/3M/en_LB/p/d/v000213391/

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Very interesting, that's good info!

 

[JamesSam]

So far I’d say it’s going reasonably well. Most of it is two things- learning what paint/clear I actually have and how it responds, and then learning the stupid cryptic non-standardized products out there for cutting/polishing. For example “Heavy Cut Cleaner” by Meguiars is actually more gentle than their “Ultimate Compound” that doesn’t really tell you much of anything except that it’s a compound. This frustration is backed by thousands of threads online asking for a listing of products from least to most aggressive.

That said, I think that the VGG wipe on clear coat is pretty tough stuff and it’s going to take some elbow grease to even that coat out. I started at 1000 grit, and I’m probably going to end up at 600 to get some traction before going to 1000, then 1500 and then going to the final polish stages.

I’d take pictures but they’re worthless- what I’m seeing and feeling with my fingertips just doesn’t show up in photos. But I’ll check back.

So are you still planning to use the VGG wipe on clear coat?
I thought I read that you weren't too impressed with it.

 

[ChuckN]

So are you still planning to use the VGG wipe on clear coat?
I thought I read that you weren't too impressed with it.

I’m done with it, I might go back to using the Patina Preserver Shine Juice. In all the videos, it comes out looking like glass and is “self leveling “. I didn’t have that experience. It just leaves streaks and looks like it smears in a way. Not only that, it’s permanent so it’s hard to get back to where you were if you decide you don’t like the look. Nothing against the guy- others love it. I just might be in the 1% that the product doesn’t work well with my paint.

 

[Doppleganger]

Very interesting, that's good info!

They have 3 formulas - one is a glue for the original stuff. Another is softer-flexible with a really short working time; and another is hard with a long working time. These original loafs are so old I cant tell if they're spongey-dried out or just plain hard and wore out?

Kind of like me.

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[TotalyHucked]

They have 3 formulas - one is a glue for the original stuff. Another is softer-flexible with a really short working time; and another is hard with a long working time. These original loafs are so old I cant tell if they're spongey-dried out or just plain hard and wore out?

Kind of like me.

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That's a tough one. I'm not sure which I'd choose. I'm not well enough versed in that kinda stuff. Off the cuff I'd lean toward the stiff one for support but idk

 

[ChuckN]

So are you still planning to use the VGG wipe on clear coat?
I thought I read that you weren't too impressed with it.

I’ll amend that. I might use it on my bed floor rather than trash it.

 

[xm20k]

Forgot to post the update on my exhaust swap.

Stripping that temp paint off these headers was a pain, tried all sorts of things nothing seemed to want to work than I remembered brake fluid lol it melts the stuff to the point it wipes off with a rag. Been awhile since I bought a set of headers that weren't ceramic coated. Shot them with white VHT, I think they came out pretty nice. They sound good too.

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[Strick]

I have a few days to wrench before school starts back so I decided to work on stuff that needs doing. I pulled the '87 in to do the exhaust & surely enough broke a stud from each manifold. Someone posted in "funny stuff" about 10 minute jobs taking all day & were they ever right. This ain't funny though...it's "exhausting"! I have one side fixed but working on the other now.

HS

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[Strick]

Left hand drill bits work great for these repairs!

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[bucket]

They have 3 formulas - one is a glue for the original stuff. Another is softer-flexible with a really short working time; and another is hard with a long working time. These original loafs are so old I cant tell if they're spongey-dried out or just plain hard and wore out?

Kind of like me.

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I'd go with the softer, more flexible stuff. That's what I found behind most roof skins, quarter panels and stuff on hundreds of various modern vehicles. I'd also use it in many areas, not just the few blobs that GM did on your cab.

 

[Doppleganger]

I'd go with the softer, more flexible stuff. That's what I found behind most roof skins, quarter panels and stuff on hundreds of various modern vehicles. I'd also use it in many areas, not just the few blobs that GM did on your cab.

I measured and can do 4 strips of sound deadening with 4-6 longer strips of the foam in between. Biggest issue with the softer (which I would prefer) is a 40 SECOND work time. Only idea I have if I can figure the distance between the 2 panels, making a cap of some sort to make the foam strips the height of the gap before the skin is laid in place. Dunno.

 

[TotalyHucked]

I measured and can do 4 strips of sound deadening with 4-6 longer strips of the foam in between. Biggest issue with the softer (which I would prefer) is a 40 SECOND work time. Only idea I have if I can figure the distance between the 2 panels, making a cap of some sort to make the foam strips the height of the gap. Dunno.

Unless you can figure out how to make the tip REALLY LONG. Then you could get the roof mocked up and ready (maybe have a competent helper or two, too), located where you like it, tilt it up keeping one end located as best you can, squirt that stuff where you want it and panel bond at the back flange (if you're doing that) at the same time, then plop it down and final adjust real quick.

Actually, on second thought, would that stuff necessarily stick? Or could you spray it, plop the roof down and wait for it to expand to shape, then pull the roof back off and continue with your work?

 

[bucket]

I measured and can do 4 strips of sound deadening with 4-6 longer strips of the foam in between. Biggest issue with the softer (which I would prefer) is a 40 SECOND work time. Only idea I have if I can figure the distance between the 2 panels, making a cap of some sort to make the foam strips the height of the gap. Dunno.

It has to go on right before the skin gets attached. So when all final fitting is done and it is ready to weld, lift it off one last time to apply the foam. Then set the skin back on. It doesn't matter if tiny adjustments need to be made to weld it, the soft foam will move and give a little.

If you are bonding the roof skin, do your final fitment, then apply the adhesive (longer work time), then apply the foam and set the skin in place.

 

[82sbshortbed]

Looks like i need a new alternator and battery. Battery is 4 years old and the alternator isn't charging as good as it was. It's really low when first started then comes up as it warms up. I think I'll go with a 105 amp one this time as my stereo seems to draw to much on it at idle.

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Even after I let it run a while. When I went to start it back up it was slow cranking and volt meter went way below 12v but still started.

 

[williestreet]

My shifter had a massive amount of slack/slop at the column. So much so that it was hard to tell what position it was in. I finally got around to investigating and found the trans "U" bracket and the shifter linkage was terribly worn. The slot on the trans bracket was over 1/8 of an inch wider that it should have been and the round shifter linkage had a corresponding groove in it at least 1/16" deep.

I removed both, welded up the worn areas and filed them back to the original size.
Unbelievable difference. Shifting is tight, clicks perfectly into place, wish I had done this along time ago.
So if you have a sloppy shifter crawl underneath and take a look. Easy fix with a welder, but the fix could be just as easily done with some JB weld, a file and a couple of hours of your time.