Refresh in near future

[hey mister]

Way to go!
I knew you would be able too.

Thanks.
It was more of a physical thing.
The hand surg has really been a limiting factor.
I learned long ago, if someone put it together, I can take it apart.

Getting old is not for the faint hearted.

 

[hey mister]

So,
Grabbed some parts this morning and started wrenching.
By early afternoon the valve stem seals were done. Half way thru my 25 year old spring compressor gave up, so another trip to parts house, then finished up.
Then off came the intake manifold. I can't believe how loose half the intake bolts were. No wonder it was leaking oil.
Anywho, cleaned everything and sprayed all the mating surfaces with brake cleaner and ran a tap into all holes and rinsed with brake cleaner and compressed air a couple times. Applied rtv as per gasket instructions and bolted the manifokd back on. Timing chain cover went on and by then it was time to feed the mosquitos.

If all keeps on track she may be back on the road by the weekend....Lord willing.

Oh yea....check out the almost choked off heating passage. And it was packed tight on the intake side.
No wonder it acted so cold hearted.

 

[hey mister]

Didn't get to it till afternoon.
Then I had to run to SR for rear seal !nd to straighten out an issue with timing cover. The cover has to timing marks and the only oned they have are over at the 2:00 position. My timing marks are at 12:00 and you have to time thru the top of the water pump. I wanted to get a new dampener because I could see cracks in the rubber of the 47 yo one. So in trying to sort this out, here come to find out, this is a rare motor. Not sure what makes it rare...maybe because the owner is half baked....ha..ha..
So finally I just got a standard dampener and bolted on a standard timing marker.
Flipped the motor crank up after dropping the pan.
Cleaned it all up and dropped on the 1piece gasket..
Oh... the rear seal was no problem. Took a small punch and got it started out on the block side. Grabbed it with needle nose and out it came. The new one slid right in. I would not want to be doing this with motor in the truck....no freaking way, fred...
I might get it back in the truck tomorrow...if it don't rain.

 

[hey mister]

Almost forgot....she be a 4bolt.

 

[hey mister]

Has anyone (who has pulled a motor) ever used a few tapered bolts to help guide the back of the motor in to line up with the bell housing?
You know...grind the head of a bolt off then taper the shank down a little...screw them in the back of the motor.
Maybe the bolt sticks out 1 inch.
I wss thinking that a couple of them might be helpful...

 

[Grit dog]

Has anyone (who has pulled a motor) ever used a few tapered bolts to help guide the back of the motor in to line up with the bell housing?
You know...grind the head of a bolt off then taper the shank down a little...screw them in the back of the motor.
Maybe the bolt sticks out 1 inch.
I wss thinking that a couple of them might be

There’s alignment pins in your bell housing, right?
But you could screw in a chunk of allthread on each side as guides. But never recall having a problem. Probably never stabbed an engine by myself either. So ya make them about 3” long. Lol

 

[Moodyalaskan]

Has anyone (who has pulled a motor) ever used a few tapered bolts to help guide the back of the motor in to line up with the bell housing?
You know...grind the head of a bolt off then taper the shank down a little...screw them in the back of the motor.
Maybe the bolt sticks out 1 inch.
I wss thinking that a couple of them might be helpful...

I have done several that way over the years. Made them with long bolts and ground a hex head on the bolt shaft so I could use a wrench or socket to remove the guide bolt. You could grind a slot and use a screwdriver. I only put them in the lowest hole on each side that would match up with the bellhousing. If put to high they hit the firewall and won't come out.

 

[DoubleDingo]

Has anyone (who has pulled a motor) ever used a few tapered bolts to help guide the back of the motor in to line up with the bell housing?
You know...grind the head of a bolt off then taper the shank down a little...screw them in the back of the motor.
Maybe the bolt sticks out 1 inch.
I wss thinking that a couple of them might be helpful...

Never. Just let pins guide it. Unless your engine doesn't have them

 

[hey mister]

There’s alignment pins in your bell housing, right?
But you could screw in a chunk of allthread on each side as guides. But never recall having a problem. Probably never stabbed an engine by myself either. So ya make them about 3” long. Lol

Yes, there is the 2 big dowels.
Yea, long ones would end up going thru firewall...lol

 

[Ricko1966]

For everyone's knowledge,if your engine doesn't have the 2 dowels,get them. The dowels are there to keep the engine and transmission centerline the same. Without the dowels the bellhousing bolts are prone to working loose,and flexplates are prone to cracking. You actually are supposed to check that centerline(nobody does) and they make offset dowels for correction. But if you run into one that keeps cracking flex plates,or working the bellhousing bolts loose,that's something to check.

 

[Sad Sack]

Has anyone (who has pulled a motor) ever used a few tapered bolts to help guide the back of the motor in to line up with the bell housing?
You know...grind the head of a bolt off then taper the shank down a little...screw them in the back of the motor.
Maybe the bolt sticks out 1 inch.
I wss thinking that a couple of them might be helpful...

I've just used alignment bars.

 

[Grit dog]

Yes, there is the 2 big dowels.
Yea, long ones would end up going thru firewall...lol

Lower ones maybe could make longer to help with the one man show getting it stabbed back in. I don’t remember exactly. Last engine I replaced in a squarebody or any old Chevy was about 35 years ago.

 

[legopnuematic]

Longer dowels or pilot studs could make things more difficult rather than help with the OE clamshell type motor mounts.

The clamshells locate the engine and restrict a lot of forward and backward motion, long studs would require the engine to be forward to start on the studs, then slide back. Sort of a conflict of interest.

I’ve always focused on the motor mounts, get the engine on the mounts, maybe still suspended an inch above their final resting position, slither underneath and finagle the trans onto the dowels, catch a couple bellhousing bolts, then lower the engine fully on the mounts, slide bolts in. Button the rest up.

 

[hey mister]

Well...I am pooped.
The goal was to get the motor back in today, but the little things derailed that plan.
2 trips to SR for a p/s pump that finally fit. First on had the return line interferring with the block.
Oil filter, oil....still forgot spark plugs.
Converted the old dizzy into an oil pump drive.
Stuck it on a cordless drill and ran the oil pump while slowly turning the motor over by hand. Did not see any leaks.
So the game plan for tomorrow....
Mount the mounts.
And get the motor back in and running.
The weather keeps looking like it's gonna pour any minute.

 

[hey mister]

Engine was in by 11:00 am.
Not hooked up to tranny yet.