Looking at 92 Yukon for my son

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AyWoSch Motors

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K1500 Sierra
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Thank you very much.
That was photo was taken just after I put new wheels and tires on it.
I had some 16" wheels on it that needed to be replaced and they didn't have any 16's in stock.
But they did have a set of 17's in stock, that made me queezy as those were always big money long ago.
Not so anymore, the wheels were $135 each.
Sold and put them on.

Thats not bad. I have noticed that in the past few years 16s have gotten very expensive and 17s have come down greatly.
Mine had some really horible looking 17s on it with 4 bald tires with the bead showing. One day I was at the junkyard, and a truck had just showed up. Had 4 stock Chevy 6 bolt aluminum 16in sport rims, with 4 really nice, almost new, 265/75 r16 10ply off road truck tires. 80$ for the set of 4 rims and tires! What a steal. And I also bought a relatively decent full size 265/75 r16 spare with the same rim for another 20$.
100$ and got a whole set, I was super happy. Had those on it ever since.
 

bucket

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Since so many are chatting about their GMT400's, here's my hobbie '98. Matt, you didn't go wrong for your son's ride!

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I'd like to see more of that!
 

Turbo4whl

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I'd like to see more of that!

Nomar T810 wrecker with an LD6000 wheel lift. I added a few upfits....

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Added a second battery in the empty second diesel tray. Both are wired to the jumpers where the plug hides behind the Bowtie.

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Removed the original "U" bracket wheel lift and installed an auto loader.

Still a work in progress, but I did add a little Square truck Bling:

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Matt69olds

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Got it running today. It ran pretty rough for a few minutes, the longer it ran the smoother it got.

Hopefully over the next couple days we can get the wheel cylinder changed and the brakes bleed.
 

Grit dog

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Well, got the tank out today. Somebody hit the nail on the head, the internal hose connecting the pump to the fuel line had rotted.
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Actually, dissolved is a better description. The pump/sending unit appears to have been recently replaced. Every bolt and hose fitting came loose easily.

I’m assuming this hose came with the replacement sender/pump, and didn’t survive submerged in fuel. I assume fuel injection hose will work??

Second issue, there appears to be O-Rings on the sending unit hose ends. They appear to be a flare fitting, which would need o-rings. Anyone in readerland familiar with the sender on these trucks?

Quite likely that was the wrong type of hose used when replaced. Normal fuel line is not rated to be submerged and it degrades much quicker.

Don't think I've ever pulled a pump out of a GMT400. The one I recall failing got fixed at a shop cause I was out of town, lol.
But my boat uses a standard GM fuel pump and the hose is a corrugated almost hard plastic. Although there is black rubber fuel line that is also rated for submersion.
 

Bextreme04

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Well, got the tank out today. Somebody hit the nail on the head, the internal hose connecting the pump to the fuel line had rotted.
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Actually, dissolved is a better description. The pump/sending unit appears to have been recently replaced. Every bolt and hose fitting came loose easily.

I’m assuming this hose came with the replacement sender/pump, and didn’t survive submerged in fuel. I assume fuel injection hose will work??

Second issue, there appears to be O-Rings on the sending unit hose ends. They appear to be a flare fitting, which would need o-rings. Anyone in readerland familiar with the sender on these trucks?

They are saginaw 3/8" and 5/16" flare fittings. You need VITON orings for use with the fuel lines. Dorman sells a kit that works, it is PN# 800-013 and you can order it on Amazon or your local parts store. This is exactly what happened to @Vbb199 the other day. He got a new EP381 for his 502 w/Holley sniper and it came with those stupid plastic clamps and cheap china made hose. It blew the hose apart in just a few days of fuel exposure. I would recommend you go get some metal clamps and real fuel injection hose that is SAE J30R9 rated for fuel exposure. I had originally put mine together with the same stuff that my sending unit came with and after troubleshooting with Vince and finding that problem, I pulled my sender and switched the hose and put metal clamps on.
 

Vbb199

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They are saginaw 3/8" and 5/16" flare fittings. You need VITON orings for use with the fuel lines. Dorman sells a kit that works, it is PN# 800-013 and you can order it on Amazon or your local parts store. This is exactly what happened to @Vbb199 the other day. He got a new EP381 for his 502 w/Holley sniper and it came with those stupid plastic clamps and cheap china made hose. It blew the hose apart in just a few days of fuel exposure. I would recommend you go get some metal clamps and real fuel injection hose that is SAE J30R9 rated for fuel exposure. I had originally put mine together with the same stuff that my sending unit came with and after troubleshooting with Vince and finding that problem, I pulled my sender and switched the hose and put metal clamps on.

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Vbb199

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The solution lol fuel injection hose

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Matt69olds

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Did some interior cleaning, went thru a ton of papers that were left in the center console and glove box.

First, I’m sure many in readerland will find this difficult to believe, but the previous owner was less than truthful. Clearly, judging from the tire receipt found in the glove box, this truck has been driven 11000 miles since the tires were installed…..on November 11, 2001!!! The most recent receipt with mileage was March 2003, less than 200 miles than what’s showing on the odometer now. Clearly, the trick has been sitting longer than the couple years he claimed.

I replaced both wheel cylinders, one caliper, hardware kit, and brake shoes/pads all around. I have gone thru 2 quarts of brake fluid repeatedly bleeding the brakes, I can’t get a decent pedal, and the red brake warning and ABS light are on. The volume of fluid coming from the pass front is much less than the other wheels. I’m guessing the ABS controller has a valve or solenoid that is stuck, restricting the fluid supply to that wheel. Suggestions on a fix?

Next issue, the rear window won’t raise on its own. Someone has to pull on the window while pressing the power release. I have replaced both lift cylinders, cleaned and lubed the hinges, with no success. It takes very little force to pull the window up, once there is a 1/2 or so of gap between the window and tailgate it will raise on its own.

Surprisingly, there is still some refrigerant in the A/C system. Not enough for the compressor to engage, but enough to suggest the system has no major leaks. I’m hoping to evacuate the system, install a conversion kit, and recharge with 134A.

Lastly, what’s the best fix for the stupid 3 piece stereo system? I know they make kits to install a aftermarket radio where the cassette/equalizer is currently located, who makes the best fitting kit? Or is there a easy fix with the factory stereo? Even more surprising, my son isn’t very interested in changing to a modern stereo. Both of my stepdaughters couldn’t wait to install radios in their cars with a AUX input, my son on the other hand wanted to know if I still had any of my old cassettes.
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just finished cleaning the moss/algae that had collected on one side of the truck. Other than some rot in the rockers, it’s actually pretty solid.

I agreed to match him dollar for dollar on his first car, so far between the purchase price, battery, brake repairs and other miscellaneous crap, we have right at 750 total in this. It runs like a top, the trans shifts great (I’m a transmission guy, I’m pretty picky with that stuff!!) the 4WD works, as does the cruise, delay wipers, everything but the A/C and radio. I think we did alright.
 
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Turbo4whl

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The volume of fluid coming from the pass front is much less than the other wheels. I’m guessing the ABS controller has a valve or solenoid that is stuck, restricting the fluid supply to that wheel. Suggestions on a fix?

Besides the ABS, two things to check, Is that the caliper you replaced? Possible blockage in the bleeder port to the piston bore.

The other common problem is the brake hose to that caliper has failed, and it has a blockage. The hose liner called the bladder separates. It will fold into the hose and act as a check valve.

When bleeding it is very important to make sure the rear brake shoes are adjusted properly. If they have too much travel, you will not get all the air out of the system. A way to cheat this is apply the parking brake. This removes any excessive brake shoe travel.
 

AyWoSch Motors

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Location
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Ayden
Truck Year
1986
Truck Model
K1500 Sierra
Engine Size
350ci V8
Did some interior cleaning, went thru a ton of papers that were left in the center console and glove box.

First, I’m sure many in readerland will find this difficult to believe, but the previous owner was less than truthful. Clearly, judging from the tire receipt found in the glove box, this truck has been driven 11000 miles since the tires were installed…..on November 11, 2001!!! The most recent receipt with mileage was March 2003, less than 200 miles than what’s showing on the odometer now. Clearly, the trick has been sitting longer than the couple years he claimed.

I replaced both wheel cylinders, one caliper, hardware kit, and brake shoes/pads all around. I have gone thru 2 quarts of brake fluid repeatedly bleeding the brakes, I can’t get a decent pedal, and the red brake warning and ABS light are on. The volume of fluid coming from the pass front is much less than the other wheels. I’m guessing the ABS controller has a valve or solenoid that is stuck, restricting the fluid supply to that wheel. Suggestions on a fix?

Next issue, the rear window won’t raise on its own. Someone has to pull on the window while pressing the power release. I have replaced both lift cylinders, cleaned and lubed the hinges, with no success. It takes very little force to pull the window up, once there is a 1/2 or so of gap between the window and tailgate it will raise on its own.

Surprisingly, there is still some refrigerant in the A/C system. Not enough for the compressor to engage, but enough to suggest the system has no major leaks. I’m hoping to evacuate the system, install a conversion kit, and recharge with 134A.

Lastly, what’s the best fix for the stupid 3 piece stereo system? I know they make kits to install a aftermarket radio where the cassette/equalizer is currently located, who makes the best fitting kit? Or is there a easy fix with the factory stereo? Even more surprising, my son isn’t very interested in changing to a modern stereo. Both of my stepdaughters couldn’t wait to install radios in their cars with a AUX input, my son on the other hand wanted to know if I still had any of my old cassettes.
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just finished cleaning the moss/algae that had collected on one side of the truck. Other than some rot in the rockers, it’s actually pretty solid.

I agreed to match him dollar for dollar on his first car, so far between the purchase price, battery, brake repairs and other miscellaneous crap, we have right at 750 total in this. It runs like a top, the trans shifts great (I’m a transmission guy, I’m pretty picky with that stuff!!) the 4WD works, as does the cruise, delay wipers, everything but the A/C and radio. I think we did alright.


You did very well, that's a good buy. Good looking truck too. Way nicer than mine, lol.
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Some baseball sized hail had fun on mine, decided I dont deserve any glass I guess.
Gets like 25-30 mpg now, and goes 90 without even trying.
Never gets hot inside either, haha.
You need any interior parts, I got them.
My interior was still nice, so I gutted it and put all the parts in my shed.
 

Catbox

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If you have to change the master cylinder, do the later model upgrade.
@Maxwellvis convinced me to let him do it to our Suburban and it does make for better pedal feel.
Not the greatest, but better than it was for sure.
 

AyWoSch Motors

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Ayden
Truck Year
1986
Truck Model
K1500 Sierra
Engine Size
350ci V8
If you have to change the master cylinder, do the later model upgrade.
@Maxwellvis convinced me to let him do it to our Suburban and it does make for better pedal feel.
Not the greatest, but better than it was for sure.

I got a brake master from a 97 chevy with all the modern late 90s abs stuff.
 

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