Importance of charcoal (Evap) canister

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Ron Sebastian

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Since I flooded mine, I have blown it out and let it dry. How important is this thing if all the other pollution equipment is removed. It's only for fumes right? If it dosen't smell like gas and all the ports appear operational, am I good to go with reinstalling?
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Turbo4whl

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Gasoline can melt the charcoal. Then they will clog. You can even end up sucking charcoal into the intake manifold.
 
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67ventwindow

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If your thinking about eliminating your canister. This is your vent to your tank. Do not vent your fuel tank to your engine bay bad things happen.


If clogged you can have all sorts of issues. (see below). One line to the tank, a purge line which is vacuum from carb and a vent. You should be able to put a vacuum on the purge line and feel the vacuum on the tank line. Might have to plug the vent on the cannister to test it. Some cars have more sensors for when to vent and when to purge.

A faulty EVAP canister often exhibits these highlighted symptoms, signifying the driver of a problem in the vehicle, which needs to be fixed.
  • Poor Gas Mileage. ...
  • Poor Engine Performance. ...
  • Difficulty in Starting Up the Engine. ...
  • Rough Idling. ...
  • Gas Odor. ...
  • Problems With Refueling.

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fast 99

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Depending on the vacuum configuration have seen carbs with charcoal contamination. Bits of it in the float bowl. Do not reuse a flooded can. They aren't that expensive considering the risk.
 

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I know but even though the truck will run without it, it's really needed and your making the right choice IMO.
I'm asking here instead of making another thread for this:

Where can one find replacement canisters these days? I have checked on and off but have not seen one (IIRC) at any fo the big places (Summit, Classic) and RockAuto etc seems not to stock them as well.

I should check my setup since I now realize 85% of my mechanicals are an 81 suburban, not a 73 ... not sure what the original setup was.

What I DO know is that the PO had a 1/4" hard fuel line running from the fuel tank vent port to the engine bay, near the fuel pump, where it ... just stopped. He pinched the tube end flat with pliers and kinda bent the last 6 inches back to tuck it out of the way. But it was NOT out of the way, it was being clipped by the fan blades.

I bent it out of the way and mentally filed that as "future, Important" but since none of the fuel lines are attached to the frame rails anyway, I figured I would sort out that problem first.

I still haven't

BR
 

Turbo4whl

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WP29P4A

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When we went through the vacuum system on my son's truck, we found his replacement at Autozone. It looks very much like the original and fits and works properly. And yes, it was about $100.00 When you take into condsideration that they last for 30 to 50 years, and usually only have issues when something else goes bad and fills them with gas, seems pretty reasonable. I have mine connected on our classic car so I can park it in the garage and not have the garage smell like someone left an open gas can in the garage.
 

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RecklessWOT

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Not needed, all it does is clean up the fumes that vent from the gas tank. Cut the line off, put a small breather on it like a one way valve for venting a diff and be done with it. Cleaner engine bay, shave a couple pounds of dead weight off the truck, save yourself $100, and now one less thing to fail in the future.

Just my thoughts, obviously some have different opinions, but yeah. The truck will run fine without it, and now the additional pollution you're causing is probably equivalent to the difference of whether two drips or three drips of gas come out of the pump as you hang it back up. And that hits the pavement and washes away into the ground when it rains, this is literally just fumes coming from the tank we're talking about. Ever accidentally leave the cap off a gas jug overnight? That's probably worse than not running a charcoal can.
 

Jimbarry

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Lots of info on the net for rebuilding the existing one. I was going to try to do that but just decided to dry mine out and reinstalled it instead. It passed smog and no particles coming out of it so far. Like Harry said,, are ya feeling lucky???
 

SirRobyn0

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I'm asking here instead of making another thread for this:

Where can one find replacement canisters these days? I have checked on and off but have not seen one (IIRC) at any fo the big places (Summit, Classic) and RockAuto etc seems not to stock them as well.

I should check my setup since I now realize 85% of my mechanicals are an 81 suburban, not a 73 ... not sure what the original setup was.

What I DO know is that the PO had a 1/4" hard fuel line running from the fuel tank vent port to the engine bay, near the fuel pump, where it ... just stopped. He pinched the tube end flat with pliers and kinda bent the last 6 inches back to tuck it out of the way. But it was NOT out of the way, it was being clipped by the fan blades.

I bent it out of the way and mentally filed that as "future, Important" but since none of the fuel lines are attached to the frame rails anyway, I figured I would sort out that problem first.

I still haven't

BR
The best you are going to do is a Standard motor products PN#CP1022 or ACDelco PN#215-153, but the ACDelco version is hard to find. Those are a three port unit made for your truck. Guys like me that have the mid-80's 5 port canister have a bit of an issue because those are pretty much made of unobtainium. So the 80's guys can run a 3 port canister it just requires an additional part to make it work, but that Standard part should be easy for you ti find and readily available, my local O'rielly's show it in stock.
 

fast 99

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The 5 port cannisters are available. Got one a couple months ago. Old one was causing a lean idle from a vacuum leak. Used the part number on the cannister for an internet search. Can't remember how much but it didn't break the bank.
 

fast 99

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Don't reuse a flooded cannister. You're risking all sorts of expensive issues. If funds aren't available, use the method described earlier to delete it.
 

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