You know, that is exactly what I was considering writing here. Proper polishing should work, so long as the outer rounded bearing journal is not cut, whatsoever.
If you detect a bent rod, have no idea if the crank needs to be hit in a few spots or might have been accidentally dropped during rebuild, you just don't know what you have anymore.
Your new machinist will likely ask you to:
A) buy a good remanufactured Crank,
B) have your's reworked and properly polished by somebody who does nothing else,
C) find one on sale from a major online store.
D) rebuild your unit and tes it, then run it if he's confident there's no rotation issue.
The 30 year engine transmission rebuilder here, explained how he considered GM's effort to restrict the rotating assembly with extremely tight bearing tollerances, as un-nessesary and prone to substantial break-in wear. Ferd's engines lasted very well with much larger tollerances.
We went through the GM Service manuals verifying every tollerance in the rotating assembly four times.
He promised me, he rebuilt a lot of older engines, with a HQ Hone, and reloaded stock bearings with a slight amount of wear spacing, polished what a little crankshaft and the engines would run very well. Thousands of them.
Crank has to be straight. Pulled from the exact engine with spin wear and protected 100% of the time, it's out of the engine.
If there was zero chance it was dropped, or bent, you could easily use some 0000, clean it up for street use and run it. Add a little Lucas and increase the change interval as much as 1/2, if you want to protect the oil additives from being diluted with the thickener? Lot's of oil news lately.
The mis-matched caps is an issue.
GM is known for alignment problems if you swapped the caps. If they walk, all your measuring is for nothing.
There's a lot to be said for careful polishing, repalcing the bearings, verify everything with plasti-gauge and verify rotation with new rods.
If it rotates nice, it's good to go.
That's what the book says too.
If it's tight, whatsoever, it tells you to loosen each cap in sequence, until you find what's restricting roation.
Certainly this must have been overlooked, during re-assembly of your engine. All it takes is getting distracted, then closing it up too fast.
You already took it to a new machinist, is your new situation.
His protocall is now your best solution.
Especially if he hears you got a refund from somewhere else.
This is why I refrained from suggesting an easier testing process, (such as polishing yourself), so you don't get your new machinist upset with you suggesting short cuts to save money.
Whatever you do, don't argue or suggest anything to do with proedure, at this stage.
He's probably going to cover his liability and fix things that cost a bit more to do it "his" way.
***editted to clearify.
