how big is the ashtray

[Jeremyschroeder]

hello i was trying to figure out the detentions of my ashtray and am not home please help

 

[89Suburban]

hello i was trying to figure out the detentions of my ashtray and am not home please help

When the ash tray is closed the panel measures 5" wide by 7" tall.

The the opening in the ash tray assembly that the actual ash try pan slides out of measures 3" wide by 2" high.

 

[Jeremyschroeder]

Thank you for your reply but my fuel line came off and everything under the hood caught fire last night

 

[89Suburban]

Oh **** man sorry!

 

[Skweegle89]

Damn i have got to get a fire extinguisher mounted. Is your truck salvageable?


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[chengny]

That's a tough break pal - I know the feeling all too well.

Couple of years back, I had finished up a complete engine compartment restore and dropped in an engine I had just rebuilt. I had the gas line off the carburetor to test fuel pump operation and also to prime the gas lines. The distributor was stabbed and the cap was on but no plug wires were installed.

Hopped in the cab to crank the engine (to check the gas pump). I was watching the fan blades so as not to overcrank and ruin the new cam/lifter set. That engine didn't make even 2 revolutions and - holy crap! The fuel pump worked great - in those two revs it had sprayed a mist of gas all over the engine compartment and onto the exposed posts on the distributor cap. Whoomph!

In less than a minute, the power plant went from this:

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to this:

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It sucks, but if you decide to rebuild it I can guarantee you one thing; when you are done you will know your truck like the back of your hand.

 

[89Suburban]

Thank you for your reply but my fuel line came off and everything under the hood caught fire last night

That's a tough break pal - I know the feeling all too well.

Couple of years back, I had finished up a complete engine compartment restore and dropped in an engine I had just rebuilt. I had the gas line off the carburetor to test fuel pump operation and also to prime the gas lines. The distributor was stabbed and the cap was on but no plug wires were installed.

Hopped in the cab to crank the engine (to check the gas pump). I was watching the fan blades so as not to overcrank and ruin the new cam/lifter set. That engine didn't make even 2 revolutions and - holy crap! The fuel pump worked great - in those two revs it had sprayed a mist of gas all over the engine compartment and onto the exposed posts on the distributor cap. Whoomph!

In less than a minute, the power plant went from this:

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

to this:

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

It sucks but if you decide to rebuild it I can guarantee you one thing; when you are done you will know your truck like the back of your hand.

 

[Jeremyschroeder]

Yeah im working on rewireing it and getting it running again i have the whole front clip off rightnow and am trying to figure out what wires i need and what ones i dont but it is hard with work and school but im trying to get her back on the road asap

 

[chengny]

This is a good chance to strip the engine wiring down to the essentials:

1. The green wire to the coolant temp sender
2. The tan wire to the oil pressure sender
3. The pink/white power feed to the oil pressure switch
4. The dark blue out of the oil pressure switch to the choke warning light
5. The light blue from the oil pressure switch over to the choke heater
4. The two small wires (red & brown) to the alternator (excitation & voltage indication)
5. The big red to the alternator (battery charging and system supply)
6. The pink to the BATT terminal on the distributor (coil primary feed)
7. The flat braided ground strap (cab firewall to RH cylinder head)
8. The main ground cable from the battery negative to the alternator bracket
9.The white wire to the TACH terminal of the distributor (if you have a tachometer)


Other essential engine related wiring in the engine compartment:

1. Main (black) cable from battery positive to the solenoid B terminal
2. The two red branch lines that also go to the B terminal
3. The purple lead from the ignition switch to the solenoid S terminal

Here is a nice clear dwg of the 1984 C/K engine compartment wiring:

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[Jeremyschroeder]

thanks for the diagram but this happend to the newest of my collection my 85 gmc k1500 sclb

 

[chengny]

Your 85 wiring will be identical to what is shown above.

 

[wishigottaford]

updated

This is a good chance to strip the engine wiring down to the essentials:

1. The green wire to the coolant temp sender
2. The tan wire to the oil pressure sender
3. The pink/white power feed to the oil pressure switch
4. The dark blue out of the oil pressure switch to the choke warning light
5. The light blue from the oil pressure switch over to the choke heater
4. The two small wires (red & brown) to the alternator (excitation & voltage indication)
5. The big red to the alternator (battery charging and system supply)
6. The pink to the BATT terminal on the distributor (coil primary feed)
7. The flat braided ground strap (cab firewall to RH cylinder head)
8. The main ground cable from the battery negative to the alternator bracket
9.The white wire to the TACH terminal of the distributor (if you have a tachometer)


Other essential engine related wiring in the engine compartment:

1. Main (black) cable from battery positive to the solenoid B terminal
2. The two red branch lines that also go to the B terminal
3. The purple lead from the ignition switch to the solenoid S terminal

Here is a nice clear dwg of the 1984 C/K engine compartment wiring:

You must be registered for see images attach

Does anyone have this picture that works

 

[bucket]

Does anyone have this picture that works

It's there, it's just washed out. If I tilt my laptop screen back, I can follow all the traces.

 

[Camar068]

When the ash tray is closed the panel measures 5" wide by 7" tall.

The the opening in the ash tray assembly that the actual ash try pan slides out of measures 3" wide by 2" high.

Just to throw some dimensions in for future reference, the whole surface that has the cig lighter and ashtray holes in it is roughly 4 3/4" x 2 1/2". If someone has one out could you measure. Mine was hard to measure accurately with it in.

To find the vertical center of the hole the ashtray goes into, go up 1 1/8" from the bottom.

Again just for future reference for others.