Carb air cleaners, thermacs, and spacers

[AuroraGirl]

So I got an air cleaner that can take a tall air filter and put my thermac on the passenger side where my fresh air outlet is.. but its got the wide snout and not the tiny stupid one like my others(1 pass, 1 driver drop)
however, I notice I dont sit flush on my 1604 edelbrock because of the distributor. Can I use a spacer on stock cleaner to rise that up without raising my carb? \

And which air cleaner IS best? Wide right?
How do you hook up the thermac? What is the AC sensor thing inside? And one cleaner has an extra sensor in bottom but i dont know what it does. I will likely plug the PCV port unless I can find one that goes where I want rather than rigid factory route. anyone sell a plug or should i leave it open?

 

[Grit dog]

Anything that keeps dust and snow out is fine for any of the engines/applications I've seen you post or talk about.

 

[Dave M]

If the air cleaner is not sitting correctly due to clearance around the distributor, you may be able to give the base a bit of heat and tap an indentation to make it clear. ???

 

[AuroraGirl]

If the air cleaner is not sitting correctly due to clearance around the distributor, you may be able to give the base a bit of heat and tap an indentation to make it clear. ???

That's a good idea. It's because it sits lower than the stock 4 barrel cast and quadrajet. I can get a spacer for carb but I think a spacer for the cleaner would be easier.

And grit, I said better as in between two options one having the wide one not, what is better? It's not like I have to give one up

 

[Rusty Nail]

Carb spacers are fine but don't forget..your air cleaner stud will become that much shorter.

AND! There is intended to be a gasket under there.

Hope this helps!

 

[Dave M]

That's a good idea. It's because it sits lower than the stock 4 barrel cast and quadrajet. I can get a spacer for carb but I think a spacer for the cleaner would be easier.

And grit, I said better as in between two options one having the wide one not, what is better? It's not like I have to give one up

I'd go the wider opening any day, less resistance & better flow. Same as a bigger element, the more surface area the better, but you wouldn't notice the difference driving it. The one l used came off a small block and has the smaller snout, l did think of removing the snout and cutting another slot as well, but it will only end up drawing heat from the engine bay. It's neat and tidy & will do for now.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[Rusty Nail]

The thermac heat riser and e.f.e valve connect via a tin heat trap that is welded to that exhaust manifold connected by a extendable aluminum tube that connects to the bottom of the air cleaner snorkel.
People remove the heat traps and the air cleaner tube is sold at your local parts store.

The E.F.E. valve is the flappy deal inside the exhaust manifold at the donut gasket to head pipe connection.

That vacuum line is to connect at the thermostatic vacuum switch found on the thermostat housing.
The other connection at that switch connects to the port at the air cleaner what works the flap.

As the coolant temperature increases, it moves a pintle inside of the switch which uncovers the vacuum ports to close the corresponding valves via engine temperature.

Or something.

Hope this helps!

 

[75gmck25]

Stock GM air cleaner does not fit many Edelbrock carburetors because of the fuel fitting sticking up/out on the side. This is a common problem even with many of the Edelbrock air cleaners. That fact is hidden down in the documentation for the carburetor.

You need to use a short spacer between the carburetor and the air cleaner. Edelbrock sells plastic spacers, or you can try using a stock GM TBI metal spacer. The other option is to use a banjo fuel fitting, but I’ve never actually tried one. The Edelbrock banjo fitting is fairly expensive for something that small, but there are other brands that are supposed to fit.

Bruce

 

[Rusty Nail]

Edelbrck carburetors suck.

 

[Paladin]

Damn.... just buy a fricken spacer and be done but I know it would be preferable to reinvent the wheel again and spend umpteen dollars doing something that's going to end up looking like afterbirth compared to just buying a fricken spacer!!!! Jeez Louise!!

 

[Charlie]

After I upgraded to HEI, I had clearance issues. This is what I got to eliminate the issue. Also had to get longer stud.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/spe-4954

 

[AuroraGirl]

After I upgraded to HEI, I had clearance issues. This is what I got to eliminate the issue. Also had to get longer stud.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/spe-4954

perfect, something that looks proper. I see now how the fuel fitting is what is limiting fitment, thank you guys for the expertise

 

[disenough]

Some GM vans had spacers, maybe not all but thats where I got 1.

 

[78C10BigTen]

I'd go the wider opening any day, less resistance & better flow. Same as a bigger element, the more surface area the better, but you wouldn't notice the difference driving it. The one l used came off a small block and has the smaller snout, l did think of removing the snout and cutting another slot as well, but it will only end up drawing heat from the engine bay. It's neat and tidy & will do for now.

You must be registered for see images attach

Purdy!!

 

[Rusty Nail]

Some GM vans had spacers, maybe not all but thats where I got 1.

Hay that's true, great tip!