Cam found but...

[Iowan]

But I found this:
[2] Requires machining on cylinder heads. How much do they mean? I know its Probably stupid question. Thank you.

 

[rich weyand]

From another thread, he's talking about running the 12-235-2 cam in his 305.

That note about head machining only applies to the Comp Cams valve springs. I don't think you need to change the springs out from the stock GM valve springs with that cam, though I would probably put new stock springs in it for best results. Others using that cam are running stock valve springs with no problems.

Of course, you MUST also put new lifters in with the cam, or you will wipe out the cam very quickly. They bed into each other in the first hundred miles or so. For that, the Comp Cam lifters will work fine, so you can get the cam and lifters as a kit.

 

[Iowan]

Well I decided to get the K12-235-2 which is the entire kit,
Xtreme 4x4™ X4254H; Hyd. Flat Tappet Cam & Kit; '58-'98 Chevy Small Block
Product Representation: Actual part may vary based on configuration ordered.
Part: K12-235-2
Price: $350.27
Weight: 25.00 lbs FREE SHIPPING OVER $50!
Quantity:

Includes Cam, Lifters, Valve Springs, Retainers, Locks, Seals, & Timing Set

• Hydraulic Flat Tappet; For '58-'98 262-400 cid Small Block Engines w/ Flat Tappet Cam

• Strong Low End & Mid-Range Torque • Good Idle,(you can ignore some of this.)

Click for Cam Specs, Recommended Components & Application Notes. Now would I have to get it machined with this package or would it be cheaper to just buy the necessary pieces? But thanks for all the help Rich.

 

[Iowan]

Or would this suit me better?
Xtreme 4x4™ X4254H; Hyd. Flat Tappet Cam & Small Kit; '58-'98 Chevy Small Block
Product Representation: Actual part may vary based on configuration ordered.
Part: SK12-235-2
Price: $223.96
Weight: 17.00 lbs FREE SHIPPING OVER $50!
Quantity:

Includes Cam, Lifters, & Timing Set

• Hydraulic Flat Tappet; For '58-'98 262-400 cid Small Block Engines w/ Flat Tappet Cam

• Strong Low End & Mid-Range Torque • Good Idle

Click for Cam Specs, Recommended Components & Application Notes

 

[rich weyand]

I was going to say the second, SK12-235-2. Buy the GM stock spring kit separately -- no head machining required.

Now I see there is another note on the 12-235-2 page not to use stock springs. I used stock springs on my 12-300-4 cam, and that's fine, and have heard of others using stock springs on the 12-235-2 cam, but I can't guarantee that will work from my own experience.

My advice is to call Comp Cams. They know a lot more about their products, and they can advise you best. There may be no machining required on your heads. There may be an alternative spring. Etc, etc. Call them and ask. I have found the manufacturers' technical departments, in general, to be very helpful.

Replacing the timing set while you are in there is a common sense. You have to take it off anyway, so put it back together with a new one.

 

[Georgeb]

Also plan on dropping the oil pan when doing the swap. Otherwise you will have a hell of a time getting it apart and back together. Plus it will most likely leak oil from the joint between the pan and timing cover.

 

[Iowan]

I am only 14 so I'll take it to a shop.

 

[74 Shortbed]

Best time to learn..

 

[rich weyand]

If you're taking it to a shop that knows what they are doing with older vehicles, they should already know if those heads need machining to accommodate the Comp Cams springs, particularly if they're a Comp Cams dealer.

 

[Iowan]

do they have a dealer finder?

 

[rich weyand]

What you really want is a speed shop. Where you at in Iowa? Ton of them out there.

 

[rich weyand]

BTW, I have a request out to a guy on another forum who used (and loves) the 12-235-2 cam to see what springs he used, and if he needed to have any machining done. I'll let you know.

 

[Green79Scottsdale]

I am only 14 so I'll take it to a shop.

Best time to learn..

I agree with 74, now is the time to learn to wrench on your own stuff. Labor rates are stupid high to have a shop do it. $75/hr is pretty standard by me. They will probably charge you for 5-6 hrs. of labor to do a cam change, I am guessing. That's a good $400 just in labor! You can buy some good basic tools and garage equipment to do the job yourself. You have a great knowledge base here on this forum to help you through it if you don't have someone local to help you. It will be way more impressive for a 14 year old like yourself to grab this job by the balls and dive in and get it done than to just take it to a shop and have them do it. If I lived by you I would be there in a heartbeat to help.

 

[rich weyand]

Doing a cam change in the truck is more like $1000-$1200 at $75/hour. It's about a day and a half, and some of it (removing and replacing hood, for example) is a two-man job.

Easiest way to do it is to pull the hood, the radiator, the grill, and the hood latch, and leave the engine where it is.

 

[HotRodPC]

You might be going to see the wrong peeps Rich. A day and a half I can R&R and assemble a complete engine. I've never pulled a hood for a cam swap. Pulling the radiator and AC Condenser if you have one is a must do due to the length of the cam coming out of the front of the block though.

Pull the intake and rocker covers, loosen the rocker arms to remove the push rods, timing cover, get the lifters up and out, pull the cam out by the timing gear and reassemble.

What's going to add more time here, he says he's replacing the valve springs too right?