Cam found but...

[Georgeb]

I agree with 74, now is the time to learn to wrench on your own stuff. Labor rates are stupid high to have a shop do it. $75/hr is pretty standard by me. They will probably charge you for 5-6 hrs. of labor to do a cam change, I am guessing. That's a good $400 just in labor! You can buy some good basic tools and garage equipment to do the job yourself. You have a great knowledge base here on this forum to help you through it if you don't have someone local to help you. It will be way more impressive for a 14 year old like yourself to grab this job by the balls and dive in and get it done than to just take it to a shop and have them do it. If I lived by you I would be there in a heartbeat to help.

What he said!
When I was 14 I was a little intimidated and there was no such thing as a message board like this to fall back on but I got it done.
Do some research and dive in!

 

[rich weyand]

You might be going to see the wrong peeps Rich. A day and a half I can R&R and assemble a complete engine. I've never pulled a hood for a cam swap. Pulling the radiator and AC Condenser if you have one is a must do due to the length of the cam coming out of the front of the block though.

Pull the intake and rocker covers, loosen the rocker arms to remove the push rods, timing cover, get the lifters up and out, pull the cam out by the timing gear and reassemble.

What's going to add more time here, he says he's replacing the valve springs too right?

Yup.

 

[Iowan]

Ok. thanks Rich for going the extra mile. And so me and my dad could probably do that. Ill just do some more research and figure out how to get the rockers and everything off just to be sure (I just need a idiots guide with lots of pictures.) And comp cams has some how tos. thanks so much guys.

 

[HotRodPC]

Ok. thanks Rich for going the extra mile. And so me and my dad could probably do that. Ill just do some more research and figure out how to get the rockers and everything off just to be sure (I just need a idiots guide with lots of pictures.) And comp cams has some how tos. thanks so much guys.

Don't forget Iowan, You can always hit the little scale symbol under a members name and give kudos or Rep Credit, it doesn't mean much and most don't participate but just so you know. You can hit Rich with a rep credit.

 

[HotRodPC]

Cam break in procedure

BTW, there are a few things that need a ton of emphasis or damage or project destroyed will happen without doubt. Things like on a 700r4 transmission, the TV Cable, MUST BE HOOKED UP AND SET PROPERLY. If not, you can kill a trans in as little as 300-500 miles, even quicker if you're hotrodding it.

Another HUGE one, CAM BREAK IN PROCEDURE MUST BE FOLLOWED !!! MUST MUST MUST BE DONE. If not you'll have flat cam lobes wiped out in less than 100 miles or so. DO IT, READ ABOUT IT, GET THE RIGHT ADDITIVES Etc. Best to follow the procedure that should come with your cam, but there are generic ways of doing it too and other additives that work just fine without using what the cam manufactuer suggests to sell their product. Just be sure to pay attention what instructions or guys here are going to tell you about doing it. It's critical and starts immediately with the first start up after the cam is installed.

 

[rich weyand]

Also, you need a valve spring tool to change the valve springs.

The break-in procedure for the cam is a big deal. The parts have to be pre-lubed with assembly lube. You need to use break-in oil, or oil with break-in additive. Then you need to use oil with ZDDP in it from then on.

Here's from an old post of mine in another forum:


When you do the new cam, make sure you coat the surfaces when assembling with the Comp assembly lube, then use the Comp break-in oil additive in an oil that includes ZDDP. My shop used Valvoline VR1 racing oil at my request. Better to use an oil with the ZDDP distributed throughout rather than add ZDDP in an additive that may not be well mixed in at the start. Change the oil when you put the cam and lifters in, and fill the oil filter with oil before you put it on. I used the GM PF1218 filter. After the run-in per the instructions, and the initial test driving, dump the oil and reload with VR1 and a new oil filter. Change oil and filter again after 500 miles, again with VR1. Then change oil and filter once more after another 1000 miles, with Mobil 1 with ZDDPPlus additive. Mobil 1 with ZDDPPlus every 3000 after that is probably the best lubrication possible for these engines. 1/2 bottle ZDDPPlus per oil change.

 

[HotRodPC]

And you're already using new lifters if you're going with the kit so it should not be an issue in your case, but for purpose of education, YOU NEVER EVER put used lifters on a new cam. NEVER. The old lifter wear pattern will quickly wear out and flatten your new cam lobes. You can put new lifters on a used cam, but NEVER put used lifters on a new cam.

 

[74 Shortbed]

Also if you're running a dual spring it's best to leave the inner one out for break in, cam MFG's highly recommend it.. Before starting prime the system make sure plenty of oil is flowing out each pushrod, make sure distributor is set right and have power to it, make sure fuel system is functioning properly, engine needs to start instantly at the touch of the button no cranking you can wipe out a cam in less than 30 seconds cranking. After break in dump the oil and cut the filter open that will tell you right away what's going on, if everything went right it should be clean..

 

[HotRodPC]

Also if you're running a dual spring it's best to leave the inner one out for break in, cam MFG's highly recommend it.. Before starting prime the system make sure plenty of oil is flowing out each pushrod, make sure distributor is set right and have power to it, make sure fuel system is functioning properly, engine needs to start instantly at the touch of the button no cranking you can wipe out a cam in less than 30 seconds cranking. After break in dump the oil and cut the filter open that will tell you right away what's going on, if everything went right it should be clean..

That makes sense without the 2nd spring, so what I'd do is break the cam in with the stock springs, THEN do my spring swap so I don't have to swap springs twice. The dual springs is only needed for higher lift and higher rpms so for break in you're not going that high of rpm to be floating valves.

 

[74 Shortbed]

That makes sense without the 2nd spring, so what I'd do is break the cam in with the stock springs, THEN do my spring swap so I don't have to swap springs twice. The dual springs is only needed for higher lift and higher rpms so for break in you're not going that high of rpm to be floating valves.

Forgot to mention that if the spring being used only has a dampener it don't have to be taken out for break in.

 

[HotRodPC]

Forgot to mention that if the spring being used only has a dampener it don't have to be taken out for break in.

No it does not. I'm always amazed at how many people don't know the difference of a dampner and a spring. I heard it for years, I have dual springs blah blah blah. I go to put a cam in and NOPE, you don't have dual springs. YES I DO !!! NO, you don't. You have a single spring and a dampner. Deeta Dee !!! That job just went up in price.

 

[74 Shortbed]

No it does not. I'm always amazed at how many people don't know the difference of a dampner and a spring. I heard it for years, I have dual springs blah blah blah. I go to put a cam in and NOPE, you don't have dual springs. YES I DO !!! NO, you don't. You have a single spring and a dampner. Deeta Dee !!! That job just went up in price.

I hear ya, I've had that argument several times, I even had to prove the difference on my spring checker, lol..

 

[HotRodPC]

You ever heard of Triple Spring yet? Dual springs with dampner.



BTW Very rare though.

 

[Iowan]

BTW, there are a few things that need a ton of emphasis or damage or project destroyed will happen without doubt. Things like on a 700r4 transmission, the TV Cable, MUST BE HOOKED UP AND SET PROPERLY. If not, you can kill a trans in as little as 300-500 miles, even quicker if you're hotrodding it.

Another HUGE one, CAM BREAK IN PROCEDURE MUST BE FOLLOWED !!! MUST MUST MUST BE DONE. If not you'll have flat cam lobes wiped out in less than 100 miles or so. DO IT, READ ABOUT IT, GET THE RIGHT ADDITIVES Etc. Best to follow the procedure that should come with your cam, but there are generic ways of doing it too and other additives that work just fine without using what the cam manufactuer suggests to sell their product. Just be sure to pay attention what instructions or guys here are going to tell you about doing it. It's critical and starts immediately with the first start up after the cam is installed.

I plan on following the directions VERY CLOSELY. and buying some break in oil and some other stuff I cant remember right now.And he bought a brand new tranny. I can try to find out the tranny but how do I find the code? thanks guys.

 

[Iowan]

ok guys so do I go with the Sk12-235-2 or k12-235-2?