Cam found but...

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Rusty Nail

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Dude.

Seriously.

601 heads, you never told what you have* now ANNNNNND there are no pics.

We. Want. Pics! :D
 
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HotRodPC

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The only difference is, SK for small kit, does NOT have new springs and locks, K for Kit is the complete kit.

Honestly IMO, if your stock single springs are not worn out, you can run single OEM springs with that cam. I've ran .485 Lift 265 Duration cams on stock OEM worn springs and never floated valves at 6000 rpm.

Not sure if you're aware, the whole reason for dual springs if needed, is for more strength to control valve float and also if you get to much lift, you will get spring bind, so you use a double spring with less coils and don't have to worry about bind but have added strength for the valve float. You really don't need dual springs for that cam. It's not dual springs in the kit either, but if your current springs are in any kind of good shape, they'll work just fine.

What you can do, is install the small kit without the springs. See it how runs and performs. If you decided you need the new springs, then buy the new springs and install them. You don't have to pull the intake or cam just to replace springs. Using the right tools you can change springs without doing anything but removing the valve covers and rocker arms. So springs can be easily changed after the fact if you find they're needed.
 

74 Shortbed

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Honestly IMO, if your stock single springs are not worn out, you can run single OEM springs with that cam.
They really should be checked for open/closed pressures against the recommended spring for the cam at the specified heights, even if the springs are good heights could be different to set the right open/closed pressures, stack height will make a difference in coil bind, and retainer to guide clearance.
 

HotRodPC

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It's never a bad idea to do so, but at .447 lift and .462 I'd say it's a 99% assured there will not be a problem. My only concern is how tired and worn the springs are. You start getting up in the .480's and up, I'd be more concerned about bind.
 

74 Shortbed

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Yep, and you won't know if they're tired or not until you check em, I learned that the hard way, didn't want to spend 20 minutes to check them and costed me a bunch of money, a costly lesson learned to say the least, lol..
 

rich weyand

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What you can do, is install the small kit without the springs. See it how runs and performs. If you decided you need the new springs, then buy the new springs and install them. You don't have to pull the intake or cam just to replace springs. Using the right tools you can change springs without doing anything but removing the valve covers and rocker arms. So springs can be easily changed after the fact if you find they're needed.

I guess I can go along with that. It also depends on whether you push the thing up above 4500 rpm. Below that, you are unlikely to float the valves in any case. So, if you drive with some care, you won't stress the valvetrain.

Haven't heard yet on what my buddy on the other forum did. I'll let you know if I hear anything.
 

Iowan

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Dude.

Seriously.

601 heads, you never told what you gave now ANNNNNND there are no pics.

what do you mean gave? and I cant find a SD card.
 

Iowan

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They really should be checked for open/closed pressures against the recommended spring for the cam at the specified heights, even if the springs are good heights could be different to set the right open/closed pressures, stack height will make a difference in coil bind, and retainer to guide clearance.

How do I check?
 

Iowan

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I guess I can go along with that. It also depends on whether you push the thing up above 4500 rpm. Below that, you are unlikely to float the valves in any case. So, if you drive with some care, you won't stress the valvetrain.

Haven't heard yet on what my buddy on the other forum did. I'll let you know if I hear anything.

Don't worry I drive very carefully.
 

Iowan

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And thanks everyone.
 

74 Shortbed

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How do I check?
I use one of these in a vice or drill press, compress the spring to the specified height and compare pressure to spring ticket.

You must be registered for see images
 

HotRodPC

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I guess I can go along with that. It also depends on whether you push the thing up above 4500 rpm. Below that, you are unlikely to float the valves in any case. So, if you drive with some care, you won't stress the valvetrain.

Haven't heard yet on what my buddy on the other forum did. I'll let you know if I hear anything.

IIRC, stock OEM springs will go 6000 rpm without issue. With a stock cam though you're not going to get there. As said I've ran a .485 lift 265 or 270 duration cam on stock springs and hit 6K daily. Maybe I need to see if I can find the exact specs on that cam. It was an Isky Cam I was running at that time and ran it for about a year and a half until I upgraded engines.
 

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I use one of these in a vice or drill press, compress the spring to the specified height and compare pressure to spring ticket.

You must be registered for see images
[/QUOTE Sorry,but what is spring ticket?
 

rich weyand

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He's talking about what the spring should test at. It would be on the spring specs, which are often attached with a little tag, or are on the package.
 

Iowan

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Also I found a SD card.:party36:
 

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