6/8 lowering kit

[xm20k]

This just happened tome recently on my lowered '07 Tahoe. I never thought about a flat tire situation. I had a r/f go down. My jack would not fit under the running board or the front bumper, they were like an inch off the ground. I had to jack up on my push bar just enough to get under the front bumper. I tweaked it in the process.

I immediately purchased one of those compact scissor jacks to keep in the truck now.

I also could have turned the front wheel one way or the other to get the jack under there to the frame but I didn't think about it at the time.

Luckily, I realized it when I put the new front wheels and tires on and sat it down that it just barely slides in and out with maybe 1/4" to spare and it's a low pro jack as well.

 

[Sarosi66]

The problem with combining the drop a-arm with a drop spindle is your scrub line. On 15 or 16" wheels/tires the "drop" portion of the a-arm will be on the ground if you have a flat/blow out.

Personally, I'd go back to stock arm with your drop spindle a spring but depending on how you plan to use the truck you might be ok with arm/spindle combo. I'm slightly confused on why you want the spacer though? The drop arms, stock spring a drop spindle will net you the same 6" drop.

I figured as much. I asked in case the drop control arms that are currently installed may have a built in caster angle into them. If I stacked spindles that also had added caster or any of the added angle adjustments etc.

I would end up all out of whack.

The other reason was the 3” lowering method on the control arms is by the recessed pocket on the arm.
Welding a plate over the drop pocket would basically make it a stock control arm.

That would save me buying a new set of factory arms so that the 6/8 kit can then be installed.

 

[bluex]

I figured as much. I asked in case the drop control arms that are currently installed may have a built in caster angle into them. If I stacked spindles that also had added caster or any of the added angle adjustments etc.

I would end up all out of whack.

The other reason was the 3” lowering method on the control arms is by the recessed pocket on the arm.
Welding a plate over the drop pocket would basically make it a stock control arm.

That would save me buying a new set of factory arms so that the 6/8 kit can then be installed.

Djm only says the drop arms won't compromise the alignment, but nothing about what they've done or if there are improvements. There are no geometry changes in the drop spindles.

I get that your looking at buying the 6/8 "kit" honestly all you need is the spindles an a flip kit. If you just have to buy that kit, then use the spindles only an sell the drop springs, or put them up until you're ready to get rid of the drop arms. Just because it comes in the kit doesn't mean you absolutely have to use it.

 

[xm20k]

In looking at kits the only arms I recall seeing changing geometry are the airbag style they add some caster if I remember correctly.

Had to look up the arms you have didn't know there were arms that added drop everything I looked at was spring and spindle.

 

[Bennyt]

This just happened tome recently on my lowered '07 Tahoe. I never thought about a flat tire situation. I had a r/f go down. My jack would not fit under the ....

In all my cars I keep 2-4 pieces of 5/8 or 3/4" plywood cut into 8x8 squares for just this reason. I'll drive onto 1 or 2 under the tire to keep it up a bit for clearance and 1 or 2 under the jack so the jack doesn't sink and also to reduce jacking time with the tedious factory scissor jack.

 

[Sarosi66]

Djm only says the drop arms won't compromise the alignment, but nothing about what they've done or if there are improvements. There are no geometry changes in the drop spindles.

I get that your looking at buying the 6/8 "kit" honestly all you need is the spindles an a flip kit. If you just have to buy that kit, then use the spindles only a sell the drop springs, or put them up until you're ready to get rid of the drop arms. Just because it comes in the kit doesn't mean you absolutely have to use

Djm only says the drop arms won't compromise the alignment, but nothing about what they've done or if there are improvements. There are no geometry changes in the drop spindles.

I get that your looking at buying the 6/8 "kit" honestly all you need is the spindles an a flip kit. If you just have to buy that kit, then use the spindles only an sell the drop springs, or put them up until you're ready to get rid of the drop arms. Just because it comes in the kit doesn't mean you absolutely have to use it.

That’s great news then! I won’t be towing anything with this truck. Just after work and weekend cruises around town.

We question for you sir. Will a flip kit handle high horsepower? I just put a built 383 stroker and a new built 700R4 trans in the truck and it rips!
Will the flip kit be ok with the power?
I’m not drag racing the truck at all except maybe from time to time at stop lights.

 

[xm20k]

That’s great news then! I won’t be towing anything with this truck. Just after work and weekend cruises around town.

We question for you sir. Will a flip kit handle high horsepower? I just put a built 383 stroker and a new built 700R4 trans in the truck and it rips!
Will the flip kit be ok with the power?
I’m not drag racing the truck at all except maybe from time to time at stop lights.

If your worried about it install it and have it welded in place to the axle.

I have seen people running a flip kit on the 10/12 bolts that drag race theirs some probably welded some might not be never looked that closely.

Mine is a 9" with a built-in flip so no personal experience banging on one with a trans brake only that I've seen others do it.

 

[Bennyt]

That’s great news then! I won’t be towing anything with this truck. Just after work and weekend cruises around town.

We question for you sir. Will a flip kit handle high horsepower? I just put a built 383 stroker and a new built 700R4 trans in the truck and it rips!
Will the flip kit be ok with the power?
I’m not drag racing the truck at all except maybe from time to time at stop lights.

No need to buy a "flip kit". Summit sells perches starting at $15 a pair. Weld them on and be done. No extra weird parts

Pardon Our Interruption

 

[xm20k]

No need to buy a "flip kit". Summit sells perches starting at $15 a pair. Weld them on and be done. No extra weird parts

Pardon Our Interruption

The thing is if you use the flip brackets you don't need to sort out pinion angle or anything it forces everything in place where it needs to be by using the stock pads to line up the axle and set the angle then just weld them solid to the axle and the stock perches. They also have an offset hole to move the axle back, so you don't drive the yoke into the tail housing when the suspension compresses.

 

[Bennyt]

The thing is if you use the flip brackets you don't need to sort out pinion angle or anything it forces everything in place where it needs to be by using the stock pads to line ...

Its the old "two ways to skin a cat"

I just prefer a "cleaner" set-up. I like to ask myself, "how would the factory do it?" And I don't think that GM would use adapter brackets and move the axle back. Nothing wrong with them, just not for me.

I weld new perches on, cut off old perches. Cycle suspension to measure and shorten driveshaft. Perches are $15, driveshaft is is $200 shortened, balanced with new u-joints. About 3 hours work and no extra brackets that possibly interfere with lines or shocks.