What have you done to your square lately??

[DatKat933]

Valve covers were leaking, so I replaced the gaskets. For anyone who does it, take the time to disconnect hoses or wires to take the valve covers off. I did it while minimizing the things I disconnected and it more time consuming to wedge it in and out.

 

[mxer147]

Try it and see how it looks. Get us all a view too.

Yep, lots of surface area on these old squares, becomes overwhelming at times. I like that cab wrap trim but plan to use two sided tape since my truck doesn’t have the trim nubs.

 

[ChuckN]

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Moses sandals! She sure is easy on the eyes!

 

[HUFFINCOSMOLINE]

Moses sandals! She sure is easy on the eyes!

Thanks! I appreciate it

 

[73 cheySuper]

Never got the fuel gauge working and after a couple tank fills, I fiinally ran out of gas and was stranded. Not since I was a kid have I ever ran out of gas.....sucks!
So, I finally got the multi-meter out and checked the sender.....nothing. Dropped the tank, pulled the sender, new spectra sender by the way......the sender had no readings on the bench. It was fried between the circular contacts and the sender lead. Odd....it's new. Bought a new one,
checked with the ohmmeter, installed, set the tank......nothing. So, wired in a autometer gauge I had and it worked just fine. Odd, so I assumed the factory gauge was bad.......but couldn't quite accept that, since I've owned dozens of chevies and not once has the fuel gauge failed. Seperated the fuse block, traced the sender lead to the block....it was wired to a hot lead just adjacent to the sender lead. Odd......I must have done this. Decided to peal back the wire loom to the starter and found I wired the yellow wire, which is the 12v starter to coil wire, to the sender. It was a really dingy yellow, appeared like tan, and that's my excuse for the mistake. Fixed that, all's good, but the factory gauge still doesn't appear to read. Went inside and put a new factory gauge in my Summit racing cart but decided to spend a bit more time figuring this out. Checked all my stuff, and turned the key on.....this time I was a bit more patient, since I refused to accept this gauge was bad......it started to move just a bit, but reeaaaallll slow. Gause these factory fuel gauges react to slosh or change, in a very slow manner. It reads fine, but took a few minutes to lower from full on full, to just a bit below full. Very happy I didn't have to pull the dash again.

 

[Shorty81]

Never got the fuel gauge working and after a couple tank fills, I fiinally ran out of gas and was stranded. Not since I was a kid have I ever ran out of gas.....sucks!
So, I finally got the multi-meter out and checked the sender.....nothing. Dropped the tank, pulled the sender, new spectra sender by the way......the sender had no readings on the bench. It was fried between the circular contacts and the sender lead. Odd....it's new. Bought a new one,
checked with the ohmmeter, installed, set the tank......nothing. So, wired in a autometer gauge I had and it worked just fine. Odd, so I assumed the factory gauge was bad.......but couldn't quite accept that, since I've owned dozens of chevies and not once has the fuel gauge failed. Seperated the fuse block, traced the sender lead to the block....it was wired to a hot lead just adjacent to the sender lead. Odd......I must have done this. Decided to peal back the wire loom to the starter and found I wired the yellow wire, which is the 12v starter to coil wire, to the sender. It was a really dingy yellow, appeared like tan, and that's my excuse for the mistake. Fixed that, all's good, but the factory gauge still doesn't appear to read. Went inside and put a new factory gauge in my Summit racing cart but decided to spend a bit more time figuring this out. Checked all my stuff, and turned the key on.....this time I was a bit more patient, since I refused to accept this gauge was bad......it started to move just a bit, but reeaaaallll slow. Gause these factory fuel gauges react to slosh or change, in a very slow manner. It reads fine, but took a few minutes to lower from full on full, to just a bit below full. Very happy I didn't have to pull the dash again.

that truck is drop dead Gorgeous!!!!

 

[Sgt Gus]

Never got the fuel gauge working and after a couple tank fills, I fiinally ran out of gas and was stranded. Not since I was a kid have I ever ran out of gas.....sucks!
So, I finally got the multi-meter out and checked the sender.....nothing. Dropped the tank, pulled the sender, new spectra sender by the way......the sender had no readings on the bench. It was fried between the circular contacts and the sender lead. Odd....it's new. Bought a new one,
checked with the ohmmeter, installed, set the tank......nothing. So, wired in a autometer gauge I had and it worked just fine. Odd, so I assumed the factory gauge was bad.......but couldn't quite accept that, since I've owned dozens of chevies and not once has the fuel gauge failed. Seperated the fuse block, traced the sender lead to the block....it was wired to a hot lead just adjacent to the sender lead. Odd......I must have done this. Decided to peal back the wire loom to the starter and found I wired the yellow wire, which is the 12v starter to coil wire, to the sender. It was a really dingy yellow, appeared like tan, and that's my excuse for the mistake. Fixed that, all's good, but the factory gauge still doesn't appear to read. Went inside and put a new factory gauge in my Summit racing cart but decided to spend a bit more time figuring this out. Checked all my stuff, and turned the key on.....this time I was a bit more patient, since I refused to accept this gauge was bad......it started to move just a bit, but reeaaaallll slow. Gause these factory fuel gauges react to slosh or change, in a very slow manner. It reads fine, but took a few minutes to lower from full on full, to just a bit below full. Very happy I didn't have to pull the dash again.

That's a good looking truck.

 

[Sgt Gus]

Turns out it's 3/4" instead of 5/8" hose. Guess it's not one I used before(left aluminum). On the net or make a trip.

Well, I got a brass one cheap from granger. RTV worked great! No leaks thus far. Although I didn't have big hose clamp on the neck tight enough for test drive and freaked out a little. Can't believe that.

 

[Sgt Gus]

I also gave her a spa by lubing all her joints, now I'm sore.

 

[Turbo4whl]

In fiddling about with some underdash wire organizing this morning, I decided to find the OEM transmission shift knob in my stash and see if I would like it better than the older style knob that I had installed back in 2021.

https://www.gmsquarebody.com/threads/what-have-you-done-to-your-square-lately.3435/page-813#post-653507

So I installed the OEM unit and went out for a long drive on paved and unpaved roads. I learned to drive in a early 50's GMC pickup with a four speed and had virtually the same knob as my Dad's 65 C20, my 51 Willys, 79 CJ-5, and 65 C10 Suburban. I must have a deep, nostalgic, spiritual/physical connection with the older style knobs. So I did the experiment. The OEM knob makes the shifter just about an inch and a half longer and just doesn't 'feel' right. Decided to go back to the old school knob in the morning when it isn't 103°F out in the workspace.

So from this:

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Back to this:

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Perhaps I will hunt up one of those billet aluminum powder coated replicas of the old style knob. Maybe not...

Late for this. Medium duty truck knobs.

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Many styles available

Darn, I cleaned up the threads the best I could and put Teflon tape on. Starting to leak again after awhile. This could be a long term disaster.

I originally used an aluminum fitting, then a steel, should I just pooky the aluminum one up with the rtv? No automotive has brass near me. Opinions?

Tape seal only lubes the pipe threads so they tighten better. Use that on plastic fittings that some sealants will melt.

Use PST pipe sealant on all metal pipe threads. You can also add a hardener, Loctite primer N. Primer N is only for PST. Use primer T for all other Loctite thread sealants.

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