What have you done to your square lately??

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DatKat933

Junior Member
Law Enforcement
Joined
May 22, 2026
Posts
27
Reaction score
77
Location
WA
First Name
Anthony
Truck Year
1979
Truck Model
K10
Engine Size
SBC 350
Valve covers were leaking, so I replaced the gaskets. For anyone who does it, take the time to disconnect hoses or wires to take the valve covers off. I did it while minimizing the things I disconnected and it more time consuming to wedge it in and out.
 

mxer147

83 K20, 350 vortec, 465, 208, 14/10, 4.10, 33s
Joined
Feb 8, 2023
Posts
944
Reaction score
3,562
Location
Colorado
First Name
Jack
Truck Year
1983
Truck Model
k20
Engine Size
350
Try it and see how it looks. Get us all a view too.
Yep, lots of surface area on these old squares, becomes overwhelming at times. I like that cab wrap trim but plan to use two sided tape since my truck doesn’t have the trim nubs.
 

ChuckN

Full Access Member
Joined
Nov 8, 2022
Posts
2,112
Reaction score
7,788
Location
Bellinham, WA
First Name
Chad
Truck Year
1981
Truck Model
C10
Engine Size
350
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Moses sandals! She sure is easy on the eyes!
 

73 cheySuper

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 16, 2025
Posts
55
Reaction score
183
Location
beaverton
First Name
jerry
Truck Year
1973
Truck Model
cheyenne super C20
Engine Size
454
Never got the fuel gauge working and after a couple tank fills, I fiinally ran out of gas and was stranded. Not since I was a kid have I ever ran out of gas.....sucks!
So, I finally got the multi-meter out and checked the sender.....nothing. Dropped the tank, pulled the sender, new spectra sender by the way......the sender had no readings on the bench. It was fried between the circular contacts and the sender lead. Odd....it's new. Bought a new one,
checked with the ohmmeter, installed, set the tank......nothing. So, wired in a autometer gauge I had and it worked just fine. Odd, so I assumed the factory gauge was bad.......but couldn't quite accept that, since I've owned dozens of chevies and not once has the fuel gauge failed. Seperated the fuse block, traced the sender lead to the block....it was wired to a hot lead just adjacent to the sender lead. Odd......I must have done this. Decided to peal back the wire loom to the starter and found I wired the yellow wire, which is the 12v starter to coil wire, to the sender. It was a really dingy yellow, appeared like tan, and that's my excuse for the mistake. Fixed that, all's good, but the factory gauge still doesn't appear to read. Went inside and put a new factory gauge in my Summit racing cart but decided to spend a bit more time figuring this out. Checked all my stuff, and turned the key on.....this time I was a bit more patient, since I refused to accept this gauge was bad......it started to move just a bit, but reeaaaallll slow. Gause these factory fuel gauges react to slosh or change, in a very slow manner. It reads fine, but took a few minutes to lower from full on full, to just a bit below full. Very happy I didn't have to pull the dash again.
 

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