What have you done to your square lately??

[gilby959798]

Designed these and then 3d printed them as a multi color print. I did uv resin on the left one (they're now side specific) and put them on my old fenders to see how they hold up being in the elements. They're attached with stainless studs and nuts as well. Then my buddy sent me pics of the 4wd indicator switch bushing. Hopefully I'll get them this week and I'll try them out. I'll have 9 to sell if it works like the 3d printed one did.

 

[Tank6x2]

Frame is completely coated - feels good lol

 

[Travlr]

I've got a question for the forum...

My 1978 square is a basket case due to the original body being so rusted that I can't salvage it. But I'm trying to salvage the chassis with a frame swap.

So the question is, there is what looks like a heater hose nipple coming out of the radiator, and another one on the top/front of the intake manifold. Every small block I've ever worked on before had the heater hoses come from the water pump and then into the manifold. So there is no nipple on the water pump at all? Am I seeing this the right way? Does the heater hose go from the radiator to the heater core? And the other hose from the heater core to the intake?

A picture or illustration would help.

 

[78C10BigTen]

I've got a question for the forum...

My 1978 square is a basket case due to the original body being so rusted that I can't salvage it. But I'm trying to salvage the chassis with a frame swap.

So the question is, there is what looks like a heater hose nipple coming out of the radiator, and another one on the top/front of the intake manifold. Every small block I've ever worked on before had the heater hoses come from the water pump and then into the manifold. So there is no nipple on the water pump at all? Am I seeing this the right way? Does the heater hose go from the radiator to the heater core? And the other hose from the heater core to the intake?

A picture or illustration would help.

Not real easy to see but heres how mines setup...

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[Travlr]

Not real easy to see but heres how mines setup...

You must be registered for see images attach

Okay, so I can see that the one heater hose goes to the intake just like mine does. Does the other heater hose go directly to the radiator?

 

[Ricko1966]

Okay, so I can see that the one heater hose goes to the intake just like mine does. Does the other heater hose go directly to the radiator?

Yes

 

[bucket]

I've got a question for the forum...

My 1978 square is a basket case due to the original body being so rusted that I can't salvage it. But I'm trying to salvage the chassis with a frame swap.

So the question is, there is what looks like a heater hose nipple coming out of the radiator, and another one on the top/front of the intake manifold. Every small block I've ever worked on before had the heater hoses come from the water pump and then into the manifold. So there is no nipple on the water pump at all? Am I seeing this the right way? Does the heater hose go from the radiator to the heater core? And the other hose from the heater core to the intake?

A picture or illustration would help.

If you want to use a radiator without the heater core return, just run the return to the water pump port like other Chevy small blocks. If your specific pump does not have that port (it would have a pipe plug in it), there are many replacement pumps that do.

 

[Travlr]

If you want to use a radiator without the heater core return, just run the return to the water pump port like other Chevy small blocks. If your specific pump does not have that port (it would have a pipe plug in it), there are many replacement pumps that do.

Yeah, I was expecting to see a plug in the pump that I could replace with a nipple, but there is none. I'm kind of wondering how the water flows if the heater hose doesn't go directly to the pump. I guess it must somehow.

 

[Ricko1966]

Yeah, I was expecting to see a plug in the pump that I could replace with a nipple, but there is none. I'm kind of wondering how the water flows if the heater hose doesn't go directly to the pump. I guess it must somehow.

That port is suction side ( return at the pump) the water is under pressure at the manifold that's why water comes out of the upper hose,to return to the radiator. So heater supply is manifold,heater return is at pump or radiator. Also the heater core can act as a bypass,when the thermostat is not open provided there is no shut off valve. Also your heater supply nipple should have a restrictor in it.

 

[idahovette]

@Ricko1966 what's a "nopple" ?.........

 

[PrairieDrifter]

That's port is suction side ( return at the pump) the water is under pressure at the manifold that's why water comes out of the upper hose,to return to the radiator. So heater supply is manifold,heater return is at pump or radiator. Also the heater core can act as a bypass,when the thermostat is not open provided there is no shut off valve. Also your heater supply nipple should have a restrictor in it.

Inlet should have a restrictor? What size?

 

[Ricko1966]

Inlet should have a restrictor? What size?

I looked for the pic I took for another member but can't find it. The supply hose factory nipple was restricted the ID was about 5/16ths. Been up all night again. I'll go take a pic and get a measurement,after I get some sleep,sorry.

 

[JamesSam]

Drove over to my uncle in laws to trouble shoot with a mechanically inclined partner. Please GMSB keep in mind I don't know as much as I want to about this truck and it's TBI system as I want to, and my uncle in law doesn't either.

When I got there we tested the battery in DC and it tested good at 12.6 volts. We turn the truck on and the battery voltage jumped up to 14.9, as in, the alternator is doing it's job. So then the test drive.

He rode with me and experienced the rough ride and stuttering. He mentioned thinking it could be fuel related. We talked about the fuel pump, the missed fuel pressure test( I could not seem to ever thread the TBI specific port fixture to the flex line a while ago and abandoned the test). So he suggested maybe the tank wasn't venting properly so he suggested trying to drive it with the gas cap off. It maybe ran rougher after that, so we put the cap back on and headed back to his house, only after the truck cut out on us when I put it in reverse to turn around. We made it back to his house and he brought out a vacuum test. We tried hooking it up in the ports on the canister, with no pressure change, leading me to believe the canister system may be deleted on this truck or just dead old.

Then we started looking for ports to test pressure in and around the throttle body. I explained to him what all the electronic sensors were. He started unplugging and plugging back in on: PCV(pressure shot out immediately and engine revved, once re-plugged the engine settled and smoothed out), The EGR(nothing happened???), the MAP sensor(again, pressure shot out, engine revved, plugged back and engine settled, and smoothed out). After this the engine was idling much smoother than before we started tinkering with the ports on the TBI. He wished me luck and we talked about changing spark plug wires potentially and replacing the EGR(which I have never done) in the next few days.

I put the truck in reverse to leave and it had plenty of power. Put in drive to head home and the truck had all the power it normally should. It is currently driving like nothing is wrong. So strange. All I can think is it had something clogged in the EGR(or one of the other ports maybe) and when we messed with them something got knocked out or unclogged. SMH.

 

[Camar068]

Drove over to my uncle in laws to trouble shoot with a mechanically inclined partner. Please GMSB keep in mind I don't know as much as I want to about this truck and it's TBI system as I want to, and my uncle in law doesn't either.

When I got there we tested the battery in DC and it tested good at 12.6 volts. We turn the truck on and the battery voltage jumped up to 14.9, as in, the alternator is doing it's job. So then the test drive.

He rode with me and experienced the rough ride and stuttering. He mentioned thinking it could be fuel related. We talked about the fuel pump, the missed fuel pressure test( I could not seem to ever thread the TBI specific port fixture to the flex line a while ago and abandoned the test). So he suggested maybe the tank wasn't venting properly so he suggested trying to drive it with the gas cap off. It maybe ran rougher after that, so we put the cap back on and headed back to his house, only after the truck cut out on us when I put it in reverse to turn around. We made it back to his house and he brought out a vacuum test. We tried hooking it up in the ports on the canister, with no pressure change, leading me to believe the canister system may be deleted on this truck or just dead old.

Then we started looking for ports to test pressure in and around the throttle body. I explained to him what all the electronic sensors were. He started unplugging and plugging back in on: PCV(pressure shot out immediately and engine revved, once re-plugged the engine settled and smoothed out), The EGR(nothing happened???), the MAP sensor(again, pressure shot out, engine revved, plugged back and engine settled, and smoothed out). After this the engine was idling much smoother than before we started tinkering with the ports on the TBI. He wished me luck and we talked about changing spark plug wires potentially and replacing the EGR(which I have never done) in the next few days.

I put the truck in reverse to leave and it had plenty of power. Put in drive to head home and the truck had all the power it normally should. It is currently driving like nothing is wrong. So strange. All I can think is it had something clogged in the EGR(or one of the other ports maybe) and when we messed with them something got knocked out or unclogged. SMH.

handy Vacuum chart:

Vacuum test chart

 

[Radiohead]

14.9v sounds like a battery cooker to me. No mention of any detected AC in the charging system, might still look into that.