What have you done to your square lately??

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xm20k

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On Saturday I warshed it and pulled the center console out so I can get to the transmission hump when I'm ready to drop the trans out

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Also before I yanked out the console/system, I tested my mono amp I found in the garage that I'm now gonna use in the red truck lol

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Then Sunday I started getting the motor ready to pull, pulled off the intake tube/belt/plug wires/alternator/intake and popped a valve cover off to make sure I don't have any obvious issues up top. Nope, it's the lifters making the racket

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That sucks. Was it dropped in basically as is or was it rebuilt first?
 

MarkHuff

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Cast aluminum at least the ones like that I had were. Could be plastic thou as I've seen those as well but think they were newer ones.

Just a quick search brings these up on Ebay and they are plastic/ABS.

thank you for the reply... I can't believe that after driving it for 22 years one of em came off and no idea ho or where. I see the replacements are plastic and cringe at that, surely they are brittle and cheap plastic.

I'm limited to bone yards in my area so have been looking on Ebay but the few I have seen look like they need to be rechromed (like the ones on it now) so struggling with what the best solution is. The rig isn't a show piece in fact its a daily driver but its a cherry and I finally started the process of stripping the clear coat off the rims and polishing them and thought I'd recondition the hubcaps in the process...

decisions, decisions, decisions :emotions34:
 

TotalyHucked

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That sucks. Was it dropped in basically as is or was it rebuilt first?
When I originally put the truck together, it was a 104k mile pullout 5.3 from an Envoy Denali. Got it from a local salvage guy we know out of his personal stash, he drove the truck before he yanked the motor and showed me the video, had good oil pressure and made no noises. So I pulled it down to the bottom end, checked the crank thrust and popped one main cap, all looked good so I just slipped a cam in, rebuilt the heads and put it all back together. I also only put in half a set of lifters since it was low mileage, it was a DOD motor so I had to swap out 8 of them. In hind sight, I should've done a full set.

Drove it that way for 27.5k more miles with no issues, then tore it out to fix an oil leak and swap out the 4L65 for a T56. I also decided to put in a rowdier cam since I wouldn't have to worry about the converter. Went from a BTR stage 4 V2 truck cam (.553/.553 224/230 109lsa) to a TSP Bald Eagle (.600/.600 227/234 109lsa) so I had to swap in some dual .660 valve springs at the same time. I've put 30k more miles on it since then and the last 3-5k miles the ticking has been getting louder and louder when it's hot. I think the double valve springs probably killed a couple of the original lifters.
 

xm20k

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When I originally put the truck together, it was a 104k mile pullout 5.3 from an Envoy Denali. Got it from a local salvage guy we know out of his personal stash, he drove the truck before he yanked the motor and showed me the video, had good oil pressure and made no noises. So I pulled it down to the bottom end, checked the crank thrust and popped one main cap, all looked good so I just slipped a cam in, rebuilt the heads and put it all back together. I also only put in half a set of lifters since it was low mileage, it was a DOD motor so I had to swap out 8 of them. In hind sight, I should've done a full set.

Drove it that way for 27.5k more miles with no issues, then tore it out to fix an oil leak and swap out the 4L65 for a T56. I also decided to put in a rowdier cam since I wouldn't have to worry about the converter. Went from a BTR stage 4 V2 truck cam (.553/.553 224/230 109lsa) to a TSP Bald Eagle (.600/.600 227/234 109lsa) so I had to swap in some dual .660 valve springs at the same time. I've put 30k more miles on it since then and the last 3-5k miles the ticking has been getting louder and louder when it's hot. I think the double valve springs probably killed a couple of the original lifters.
Sounds like that's the case. Hopefully they just are no longer pumping up and you don't find any of the plunger retainer clips have come out and disappeared into the engine. And if they have that they have not been picked up by the pump. Last one I cracked open (SBC) had three come out and were luckily just lying in the valley.
 

83Stepper

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thank you for the reply... I can't believe that after driving it for 22 years one of em came off and no idea ho or where. I see the replacements are plastic and cringe at that, surely they are brittle and cheap plastic.

I'm limited to bone yards in my area so have been looking on Ebay but the few I have seen look like they need to be rechromed (like the ones on it now) so struggling with what the best solution is. The rig isn't a show piece in fact its a daily driver but its a cherry and I finally started the process of stripping the clear coat off the rims and polishing them and thought I'd recondition the hubcaps in the process...

decisions, decisions, decisions :emotions34:
Found mine on marketplace. Feel light enough to be chrome covered aluminum. Shocked that they all haven't fully pitted or somehow just lost their coating because we all know how badly some GM stuff came out quality-wise in that era.

But back on track, I finally got the GM rally's I wanted from marketplace and guy had a full set of them, but they were a staggered set, 2ea of 15x7 and 15x8's. He had a set of centers to go with them. They actually were in pretty good shape and I gave them a little polish and shine to dress em up a bit. Not perfect, but definitely good enough for a driver quality.
 
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Made a vinyl covered panel for the rear cab wall. I'm not much of an upholsterer so my corners aren't kinda raggedy looking. The rest turned out better than I thought though
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JamesSam

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Found mine on marketplace. Feel light enough to be chrome covered aluminum. Shocked that they all haven't fully pitted or somehow just lost their coating because we all know how badly some GM stuff came out quality-wise in that era.

But back on track, I finally got the GM rally's I wanted from marketplace and guy had a full set of them, but they were a staggered set, 2ea of 15x7 and 15x8's. He had a set of centers to go with them. They actually were in pretty good shape and I gave them a little polish and shine to dress em up a bit. Not perfect, but definitely good enough for a driver quality.
Let's see em!!!!
 

78C10BigTen

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Adding what I paid for the truck, the bed and parts to repair my cab, I will only have about $2000 to $2100 in it so far. One of my son’s friends, who works at an auto body shop, is helping me with all the work for a six pack of beer every time he comes out. By the time I’m done even with paint I won’t have the cost of that cab in my truck. I don’t mind the work and this will be my last project truck like this any way.

I can’t type.
Wish i had a body guy like that, my daily s10 and my 78 need body work lol
 

TotalyHucked

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Sounds like that's the case. Hopefully they just are no longer pumping up and you don't find any of the plunger retainer clips have come out and disappeared into the engine. And if they have that they have not been picked up by the pump. Last one I cracked open (SBC) had three come out and were luckily just lying in the valley.
That's what I'm hoping. None of them are loose enough for me to be able to tell with the valve cover off, but something's making a noise at camshaft speed and sounds exactly like a lifter dropping back down onto the cam
 

ThreeLRanch

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Started planning out my new rear bumper , I am not liking the one that is on it now and I dont like any others out there so I thought I'd try and make one that I did like . I am not 100% sure this is what I will be going with but it's a start .
 

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Sad Sack

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Started planning out my new rear bumper , I am not liking the one that is on it now and I dont like any others out there so I thought I'd try and make one that I did like . I am not 100% sure this is what I will be going with but it's a start .
Solidworks rocks!
 

vr1967

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A 3" drop spring will still stay put barely but 4" fall out of the upper pocket anytime you raise the truck up. Its super annoying lol

Need to add a spacer under the rubber bumper of the upper control arm to limit downward movement.

I dropped my 81 in 1984 using custom 4” springs as I don’t remember spindles being available. Added a 3” aluminum spacer under the upper control arm bumper, figuring, anything I removed from the bottom (spring height) I needed to account for up top.
I also cut the lower ball joints out and moved them inward 5/8” and removed the “drop brackets” for the front sway bar and mounted the front of the bar straight to the frame.

Saw the truck about 2 years ago, and surprisingly, it is still running around with the same suspension set up.
 

JamesSam

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The passenger window is starting to act like something is hendering it.
-Sometimes makes sounds when going down.
- Sometimes stops halfway, then 3/4 of the way, then at 1/4 of the way...
-Rolls up just as well as it always has.
My first thought was the motor is dying but after dealing with the drivers motor and regulator, I think it's possible the regulator could just be in bad shape.

I have the drivers vent to install and plan on tightening everything down on the power window regulator while inside the door.
I also have the passenger side vent window replacement on the way.
I want to go ahead and get parts to install when inside the passenger door to get it all working efficiently.
If it were possible I would only like to purchase what is needed: power motor, or regulator. That is impossible to know until taking the door apart, so, I will be picking up pasenger motor and regulator and will try to return whatever one is not necessary.. Or I may just install both new pieces and save the regulator in the door for rebuilding later.
 

bucket

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trivia question for today is...
what are the original center caps of the 1988-1991 Burbs made of?

I have a 1991 GMC Burb 4x4 that needs one like this pic...

Chrome plated pot metal of some kind. Much like the body of a Hot Wheels car. Aftermarket replacements are plastic.
 

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