Should i fix the TBI or go to carb? And what's this wire?

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AyWoSch Motors

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Sorry to everyone and anyone I sounded like a d!Ck to. I won't try to explain it,that would be an explanation not an apology.
No worries man, your good, no offense taken with anything. You're just trying to help, and thanks for that. Im trying to get all that drilled into my thick skull..
My brain clams up a bit when related to anything "electrical". I perfer mechanical, but oh well, here we are.
 

AyWoSch Motors

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So i did just go and look up some tips and tricks.

What im getting from all what you posted and what i looked up, the pump should be the lowest thing in the system, because it hates to pull, but likes to push. Is that correct?

Going off that, hows this?
I went out and looked underneath, and took a picture. Drew a slightly nicer diagram...
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I have a massive muffler in my way of the framerail, and i wouldnt want the pump to get too hot. So how about it come out of the sender unit, in the check valve, then down to the filter and pump, then loop back up to the factory fuel lines. The pump will always be wet, and will be siphon fed.
 

Ricko1966

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Somewhere in here you said something about not trusting your wiring,here's a good wiring diagram from holley, from memory I think that switch is a standard ign ps269 but I'll have to check there should be a spot on the drivers side rear of the block to put in the switch. I just looked it's ps64 not ps269 standard ignition.
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Redfish

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Sorry to everyone and anyone I sounded like a d!Ck to. I won't try to explain it,that would be an explanation not an apology.
We know you are trying to help. I know I appreciate the useful information and I am not even doing the job.

I personally get frustrated often when I find myself repeating over and over what someone NEEDS to do in a troubleshooting thread and the entire time they are ignoring my advice. Sometimes they don't know enough about what is going on to even realize how important what is being explained really is. Sometimes they don't care. Sometimes it is best to just let them fail.

In this case our young friend just had too much information from too many folks AND he is busy with a whole bunch of other things too.
 

Turbo4whl

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I've tried almost all of them. Mr gasket 12s on a burb, life expectancy here to stuck 100 miles from here. Unknown pump 85 c10 DOA. replacement airtex lasted 2 weeks......
Wow, you got an Airtex pump to last 2 weeks! That beats my best record.

So i did just go and look up some tips and tricks.

What im getting from all what you posted and what i looked up, the pump should be the lowest thing in the system, because it hates to pull, but likes to push. Is that correct?

Going off that, hows this?
I went out and looked underneath, and took a picture. Drew a slightly nicer diagram...
You must be registered for see images attach

I have a massive muffler in my way of the framerail, and i wouldnt want the pump to get too hot. So how about it come out of the sender unit, in the check valve, then down to the filter and pump, then loop back up to the factory fuel lines. The pump will always be wet, and will be siphon fed.

Seriously, Rick has given you lots of great information on this thread. From your drawing the fuel path looks fine. I want to mention again, electric fuel pumps don't like heat. Add a heat shield between the muffler and the fuel pump, line and filter.
 

Ricko1966

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Carter,Summit and Earls all say to put a filter before the pump.One of them said failure to do so will lead to premature pump failure, one said the warranty would be voided if there was not a filter before the pump,the other just said put a filter before the pump. Interesting fact not one of them recommended installing a check valve.
 

AuroraGirl

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Carter,Summit and Earls all say to put a filter before the pump.One of them said failure to do so will lead to premature pump failure, one said the warranty would be voided if there was not a filter before the pump,the other just said put a filter before the pump. Interesting fact not one of them recommended installing a check valve.
is it boiler plate or is it for that pump, and i wasnt saying its necessary i was asking to find out if it was outright harmful or not
Since the wrong pump type + check valve would be quick death.
Ifi ts not generic instruction and is for that pump specific,then I see, cool lol!
 

wanderinthru

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Wow, you got an Airtex pump to last 2 weeks! That beats my best record.



Seriously, Rick has given you lots of great information on this thread. From your drawing the fuel path looks fine. I want to mention again, electric fuel pumps don't like heat. Add a heat shield between the muffler and the fuel pump, line and filter.
This! Every bit of this, Read it again, lol.
 

AyWoSch Motors

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Wow, you got an Airtex pump to last 2 weeks! That beats my best record.



Seriously, Rick has given you lots of great information on this thread. From your drawing the fuel path looks fine. I want to mention again, electric fuel pumps don't like heat. Add a heat shield between the muffler and the fuel pump, line and filter.
This truck has a massive cat, a huge muffler, and then another cat or resonator or something after, and then a bunch of rotted, twisted tail pipe at the end. I plan on removing all that, and installing a nice clean straight pipe with a smaller nicer muffler out back more. When i do, ill make sure it all is farther away from that setup. May make a heat sheild too.
 

AuroraGirl

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This truck has a massive cat, a huge muffler, and then another cat or resonator or something after, and then a bunch of rotted, twisted tail pipe at the end. I plan on removing all that, and installing a nice clean straight pipe with a smaller nicer muffler out back more. When i do, ill make sure it all is farther away from that setup. May make a heat sheild too.
i dont think you understand how important a heat shield made from a few sheets of foil attached to some spots around it and just not allowed to touch it... lol...
get a small stop sign or a square stainless/aluminum sheet from somewhere, put some basic bends, attach crudly for now, if you use it on the road youll want to.
But a straight pipe exhaust with a muffler past all that is a good idea


Wait, you dont have the emissions on it. punch the cat out or bypass it, so you dont burn it up without the AIR and o2 stuff
 

AyWoSch Motors

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i dont think you understand how important a heat shield made from a few sheets of foil attached to some spots around it and just not allowed to touch it... lol...
get a small stop sign or a square stainless/aluminum sheet from somewhere, put some basic bends, attach crudly for now, if you use it on the road youll want to.
But a straight pipe exhaust with a muffler past all that is a good idea


Wait, you dont have the emissions on it. punch the cat out or bypass it, so you dont burn it up without the AIR and o2 stuff
Plan on getting rid of the cat. Can get $80 for it at the scrapyard.
We dont have emissions, i got rid of all the EGR stuff, got rid of the air pump, and breather tubes, and o2 sensors, and all that crap.
 

AuroraGirl

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Plan on getting rid of the cat. Can get $80 for it at the scrapyard.
We dont have emissions, i got rid of all the EGR stuff, got rid of the air pump, and breather tubes, and o2 sensors, and all that crap.
can you quickly clamp in a new pipe in place of the cat
youre gonna really get some nice smells if you dont
 

AyWoSch Motors

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can you quickly clamp in a new pipe in place of the cat
youre gonna really get some nice smells if you dont
Haha, yeah i know. I have a 2ft piece of 2.5in pipe, and a 2.5in glasspack muffler.
 

AyWoSch Motors

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Okay, got everything hooked up and bolted down, whatcha think? See any issues with that?
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Also found almost the exact same pump in my carb cabinet, works too. So im going to keep that in the glovebox as extra.
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