SAE or synthetic

Camar068

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Learn more about oil from the scientific side. Take all that in as well as opinions you trust and form your own opinion. Link below for the scientific side. You'll need to look up each category (viscosity, calcium, magnesium, blah blah blah). This is a good place to compare most any oil to another to look at the actual scientific numbers instead of hear say, commercials, etc. Form your own opinion and make a choice.

What I've done in the past is open multiple windows (IE, firefox, chrome, blah blah) and resize them so you can put them side by side on one screen to compare.

https://pqia.org/passenger-car-motor-oil/
 

K5ride

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While surfing the net, I found this video that specifically addresses using synthetic oil in older / classic vehicles. He explains why some think it will cause leaks or damage.

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I started running Mobil 1 in my 75 right after I got it, about 4 years ago and have not had any issues.
 

GMFORLIFE

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Oil technology is the reason engines now last 200k,300k etc.
Why spend $30,$40,$50 k on a vehicle and protect it with cheap oil?
Diesel oil is a good alternative for older engines..higher zinc content.
 

RecklessWOT

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Also, what exactly is in a "high mileage" oil that isn't in a standard/conventional oil? Or is that just a money making/marketing scheme.

"high mileage" oil can be either conventional, synthetic, or a blend. It has some extra detergents in it aimed at cleaning out deposits/sludge that is more likely to be found in higher mileage engines (but honestly not enough to clean a really dirty engine, if it's that bad use mystery oil or seafoam). But more importantly, they contain additives that are supposed to "condition" or "swell" old gaskets and/or prevent them from drying out and cracking. How much of a difference it actually makes I can't exactly say, but I know as stated before they have rules against false claims so I assume there has to be some merit behind it, however little it may be. I figure it can't hurt and run it in most of mu stuff
 

K5ride

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This post has me thinking about adding ZDDP to my synthetic oil or running an oil that contains more. Mobil 1 only has 900 to 1000 PPM ZDDP. From what I've been reading, a flat tappet cam with stock valve springs needs about 1200 and if you have upgraded springs you need about 1400 PPM. Is everyone running a high ZDDP oil or using an additive?
 

fussfeld

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This post has me thinking about adding ZDDP to my synthetic oil or running an oil that contains more. Mobil 1 only has 900 to 1000 PPM ZDDP. From what I've been reading, a flat tappet cam with stock valve springs needs about 1200 and if you have upgraded springs you need about 1400 PPM. Is everyone running a high ZDDP oil or using an additive?

i "heard" that if you have stock-ish valve springs AND still running flat lifters, then you don't "need" any zddp additives.

Just to be safe though, when i had the 350 and 305 (both with flat lifters and stock cams etc.) i used:

https://www.redlineoil.com/10w30-motor-oil

They put 1200 ppm zddp in all their "high performance" series.

To me, the cost difference between this and off the shelf oils at the autoparts store was negligible---only a few dollars. So, just to be safe i ran it whether i really needed it or not.
 
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GMFORLIFE

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My78truck

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Well I just watch a show on Motor Trend and there was a segment about...........OIL!!! Basically, the bottom line, and take away, was put in your vehicle what the manufacture calls for. And that I do/will.
 

Octane

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1992 chevy 4.3, 530k using 5w30 conventional havoline changed every 5k. The truck was still running at least a year or two after it was sold.Original tranny also.
 

Ricko1966

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1992 chevy 4.3, 530k using 5w30 conventional havoline changed every 5k. The truck was still running at least a year or two after it was sold.Original tranny also.
So we're you using havoline 5w30 in the transmission too? I would say the truck lasted because of who was driving it and how it was maintained, the oil brand was irrelevant.
 

Octane

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So we're you using havoline 5w30 in the transmission too? I would say the truck lasted because of who was driving it and how it was maintained, the oil brand was irrelevant.
Original tranny also.....
 

K5ride

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Well I just watch a show on Motor Trend and there was a segment about...........OIL!!! Basically, the bottom line, and take away, was put in your vehicle what the manufacture calls for. And that I do/will.

I agree. Both my 1975 C10 factory service manual and owners' manual show the multi viscosity oil to use depending on the temperatures it will be operated in. It also states to have at least an "SE" rating. The Mobil 1 oil I'm using has a higher rating of "SN" and is the upgraded replacement for SE since it is no longer made. All the higher rated numbers are backwards compatible. I've been runninng the Mobil 1 10w30 and it is right for the temperature where I live according to the manufacturer.

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