SAE or synthetic

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Doppleganger

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I used to use Rotella alot, then went to Castrol. Have used Mobil One for years with turbos. New motor will be broke in on Wally's house brand, but then Mobil One after that. Going all synthetic (Amsoil) in the new axles, rebuilt trans and transfer case too.
 

GMFORLIFE

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lol


Living in a damp climate sucks.
My garaged cars are protected from the dew that forms every morning.
The cars that sit outside are wet each morning..then the sun bakes it.
My water table is super high..sump pump runs constantly.
Driveway is gravel.
Condensation surely forms on the inside of the valve covers..oil pan ...etc.
Diluting all My fluids
I bet if I used some sort of meter..I could prove it...:33:


I'm not down with 15-40 unless it's meant to rattle. You know what I'm saying?
lol?
 

Dan Brown

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Supertech oil is made by Warren Oil Co., and is considered one of the best oils available today. For some reason Wal Mart quit selling a conventional oil. It's now either a synthetic blend or full synthetic. I, personally, don't use synthetic oil, as I change oil and filter every 3000 miles, so why throw away more expensive high mileage oil every 3000 miles.

Too, I buy Shell oil at Home Depot, and with my veteran's discount, it's cheaper than Supertech. Wal Mart doesn't do vets discount. Shame on them.
 

Octane

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Supertech oil is made by Warren Oil Co., and is considered one of the best oils available today. For some reason Wal Mart quit selling a conventional oil. It's now either a synthetic blend or full synthetic. I, personally, don't use synthetic oil, as I change oil and filter every 3000 miles, so why throw away more expensive high mileage oil every 3000 miles.

Too, I buy Shell oil at Home Depot, and with my veteran's discount, it's cheaper than Supertech. Wal Mart doesn't do vets discount. Shame on them.
I use havoline pro ds in the 6qt bulk box/bag from walmart,19.98 for it.Then just add a 1/2 to 1 qt to it for a complete change.Not bad for a full synthetic
 

MikeB

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An advantage synthetics have is they flow much better on cold start-up. Very important in cold climates.

Also, it's NOT a matter of SAE vs. synthetic. It's conventional vs. synthetic. SAE is Society of Automotive Engineers. So even Mobil 1 can be "good old SAE oil."

That said, I use Valvoline VR1 10w-30 conventional oil in my Gen I 350. Compared to most conventional oils, it has a much higher amount of zinc and phosphorus to protect flat tappet cam lobes and lifters. Make sure it's the silver jar.
https://www.amazon.com/Valvoline-Da...oline+VR1&qid=1626702954&s=automotive&sr=1-17

Also, Mobil 1 10w-30 is a synthetic with a decent amount of zinc and phosphorous. It's fairly inexpensive at Wal-Mart.

Whatever you do, don't use straight 30 weight or 20w-50 unless you're trying to revive the oil pressure in an old engine. I once tried 20w-50 in a worn out 350. It brought the pressure up from near zero at idle to around 10 lbs, and from 20 on the highway to 30. But it was just a band aid. The semi-permanent shade tree fix was new rod bearings. :)
 

Goldie Driver

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lol







I'm not down with 15-40 unless it's meant to rattle. You know what I'm saying?
lol?


Ah Hah Hah Hah Hah Hah !! :dogpile:

Mine does on acceleration - including the ( mainly the ? ) transfer case shifter lever.

Close enough ?

:p
 

Dan Brown

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I'm certainly no motor oil expert, but, to me 5W means 5W, as in 5W-30, and knowing what those number mean, is pretty thin, regardless of whether it's conventional or synthetic. I'll continue to throw away conventional oil every 3000 miles.
 

MikeB

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...to me 5W means 5W, as in 5W-30, and knowing what those number mean, is pretty thin, regardless of whether it's conventional or synthetic.

Well, there is plenty of info on the web about 5w-30 conventional vs. 5w-30 synthetic at very low temperatures. The test below was done at -40C (which happens to be -40F). So, yes, that's not something we're not likely to encounter in most places in the US, but I suspect 5W conventional oil starts flowing more slowly at somewhere between 0F and 32F.

I suggest you post your 5W = 5W comment on the BobIsTheOilGuy.com forum and read the responses.
 

Bextreme04

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My take on this is that any motor that has unknown history or has been together and running for more than a few years should continue to run conventional oil. The engine will wear faster and will require more frequent oil changes.

If you have a new motor or one that has had new seals put in it in the last few years, you should run synthetic after the initial break-in period is over. The inside of an engine that has had synthetic in it for its whole life after break-in is so much cleaner and has so much less wear than one that has run on conventional oil. You still need to have regular oil changes with synthetic, but they can be a bit longer intervals.
 

Rusty Nail

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Close enough for the purposes of THIS thread, sure.

Hey @GMFORLIFE I'm only poking the stick dude, we appreciate the quality info in them links- learning experience for sure - even eye opening. Thank you for the input, surely we would all benefit from becoming more involved posting here. Thanks again. :waytogo:
 

GMFORLIFE

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My favorite is actually Mobil one..made from a pure gas in a. Lab.
Can't afford it though.
If it's good enough for the space shuttle..its Good enough for me!
Most synthetics are actually highly refined conventional oil!
 

Bextreme04

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My favorite is actually Mobil one..made from a pure gas in a. Lab.
Can't afford it though.
If it's good enough for the space shuttle..its Good enough for me!
Most synthetics are actually highly refined conventional oil!

It's what I run in most of my cars. I used to do a lot of custom turbo and drag racing work in my younger years in Southern California and we always had real good luck with the Mobil 1 oil. I also used it in my motorcyles when I was still riding. The cheapest place for Mobil 1 is walmart at about $24/ 5 quart jug, although Costco sometimes has a box of 6 quarts for around $27-29, which is about the same cost per quart.
 

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Also, it's NOT a matter of SAE vs. synthetic. It's conventional vs. synthetic. SAE is Society of Automotive Engineers. So even Mobil 1 can be "good old SAE oil."

Beat me to it. Thank you
 

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