Rusted exhaust studs

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DoubleDingo

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While I was disassembling my truck exhaust to remove the engine, I had all 3 studs twist off on the driver's side. I have been soaking them with Knock'r Loose for the last 4 days and tapping with a hammer. Last night I decided it was time to tackle swapping the news studs in. I didn't use heat. On the broken studs I decided to use my Porter Cable impact screwdriver. I cut a slot in the studs wide enough to get the flat bit in, and deep enough to get a good bite. The first one backed right out. Second one I should have tried tightening first and then backing it out. Busted both bits I had. Third one I used vice grips and tightened it first then started walking it back and forth and adding Knock'r Loose as I progressed.

The passenger side all came out with a small pipe wrench with the tighten first and then loosen method.

I need to get an easy out for the other because stupid me decided to cut it off flush. I should have got more bits and used the impact because it worked so well. Just the cheap-made China bits couldn't hold up. Lesson learned.
 

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I find its faster to just drill and tap.

Always use never seize.
 

DoubleDingo

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If I had just cut them off, drilled and tapped them, it would have taken less physical time. But with the soaking of Knock'r Loose multiple times for 4 days, they turned pretty easy considering they were frozen in rust. I just screwed up with the second one expecting it to buzz out like the first one did. I couldn't find my center punch, so I used the most pointy punch I had. Unfortunately it didn't leave a good enough guide for the small drill bit, and the bit walked a little off center. I stepped it up one size at a time until I got close to the threads, then I stopped. During lunch today I will get a tap and some extractors.

I never used anti-seize until I started working on the engine this rime around and finding so many nuts and bolts frozen. So the water pump bolts got some, the exhaust studs, and the exhaust nuts on the studs as well as the bolts into the head will too. I am getting wiser in my middle age years.
 

89Suburban

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I just ordered new studs for my driver's side, I can't wait to tackle this... NOT!

One of the springs rusted out and fell off. :flipthebird:
 

DoubleDingo

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I just ordered new studs for my driver's side, I can't wait to tackle this... NOT!

One of the springs rusted out and fell off. :flipthebird:

That is why I sprayed Knock'r Loose on them for so many days in a row. I just didn't want to do them and knew they would break loose easier if I did. I need to get my rig back on the road, so there's that.

Are you talking about a spring on the passenger side? I don't recall seeing any spring(s) on the driver's side.
 

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Get a second set of exhaust manifolds and always keep the on the shelf set in good condition and then just change the manifolds when the need requires
 

89Suburban

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Get a second set of exhaust manifolds and always keep the on the shelf set in good condition and then just change the manifolds when the need requires

Do you use EM gaskets? Or none?
@DoubleDingo I have them on the D/S fo sho
 

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ya OEM manifold to block and the donut ones with the sleeve on the other. Never have any leaks from the manifolds.

Hey is there a place to buy an exhaust system for these old squares with out spending $800-$1000 ?
 

89Suburban

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ya OEM manifold to block and the donut ones with the sleeve on the other. Never have any leaks from the manifolds.

Hey is there a place to buy an exhaust system for these old squares with out spending $800-$1000 ?

Check out heartthrob's exhaust website. They seem to have the best list of affordable systems. But I still pieced together my own Y-pipe back system using parts from Summit, eBay and Rock Auto for about $200. It is still single exit though. At some point I want to split it at the axle and have duals out under the back bumper.

When I replaced the heads on my '89 I got my balls busted here about using those manifold to head gaskets. Quite a few here said you don't need them at all. From what I can tell on my '90 it does not have them either.
 

DoubleDingo

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Do you use EM gaskets? Or none?
@DoubleDingo I have them on the D/S fo sho

I use gaskets on the heads, but my manifolds have built-in donut shapes so I don't need the donut gaskets.

I cannot envision a spring on the driver's side exhaust.
 

89Suburban

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I use gaskets on the heads, but my manifolds have built-in donut shapes so I don't need the donut gaskets.



I cannot envision a spring on the driver's side exhaust.


I have springs on all bolts on both sides. Maybe something they did in my model year. I'll throw some pics up when I take them.
 

DoubleDingo

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Check out heartthrob's exhaust website. They seem to have the best list of affordable systems. But I still pieced together my own Y-pipe back system using parts from Summit, eBay and Rock Auto for about $200. It is still single exit though. At some point I want to split it at the axle and have duals out under the back bumper.

When I replaced the heads on my '89 I got my balls busted here about using those manifold to head gaskets. Quite a few here said you don't need them at all. From what I can tell on my '90 it does not have them either.

I keep getting flack from my friends and Pop about my single exhaust. This is the first vehicle I've owned that had it, and I like it. Truck generates plenty of power with it and it has a cool growl at certain rpm's.

What is wrong with using gaskets? I know the metal from the head and manifold will conform to each other without them, but is it a sin to use gaskets? :shrug:
 

DoubleDingo

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I have springs on all bolts on both sides. Maybe something they did in my model year. I'll throw some pics up when I take them.

Oh...those half-moon shaped things with three tabs on each end to hold the bolt heads in place? Yes, now I know what you're talking about. I have those on mine too, but the tabs were never bent so they're ornamental on my setup...:)
 

89Suburban

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