REDS NECK REPARES!~

[AuroraGirl]

What is your giant reluctance to just fix your axle seals and keep your brakes functioning as intended. Rear axle seals are really NBD at all. Remove the diff cover. You need to change fluid anyway. Remove the cross pin retainer bolt,and cross pin. Push in on the axle pull the c clip Remove the axle. Several methods of removing the seal which is no big deal. Drive in the new seal,push in the axle,replace c clips,cross pin and retainer bolt. Reseal and refill the pumpkin. This is beginner stuff. And way better than rigging brakes on a lifted truck with stiff springs. Yes weight transfer comes into play too. Just remember to heat the cross pin bolt with propane before trying to loosen it. And to any of you that said you need to drain the mastercyinder if you block the rear line at the master. BS. no you don't. You may trip the combination valve though,which you would anyway with no hydraulic pressure from draining the master.

i only recommended emptying because it would mean fresh fluid once returned to service

 

[Ricko1966]

i only recommended emptying because it would mean fresh fluid once returned to service

It wasn't you 2 or 3 said if he blocks the port at the master he will have to empty the fluid first. Not true,just block the port and go.

 

[Edelbrock]

Some these fixes may work in a, "get the vehicle home scenario." All of these temporary fixes will only aid in making your truck look like the picture in your avatar.

My suggestion is get a rental or borrow a vehicle until you fix your truck.

Since I explained how a GM dual piston master cylinder works to many times, just know jury fixing a brake system is not a good plan.

All comments are welcome and will be taken into consideration.

 

[ASPEC]

The only acceptable band-aid is to replace the shoes with a cheap set. They can be had for under $40 (probably under $20 if you dig hard enough). Keep the gear oil at bay by hosing them down with good brake cleaner occasionally until you do your swap. If forty dollars or less is a problem just to get you by, then let us know where we can send you a sandwich...

 

[Grit dog]

Fixing the seal and replacing the shoes would be ideal, but I'm try to find a temporary fix until the proper repair is done. So adjusting the brakes would not help, unless I am incorrect. But there must be something that could be sprayed into the drum that would decrease friction. Graphite power, silicone lubricant, grease, water, or? The brake grabs badly when cold, and locks up. Also drags for a bit, pulling the rig to the left until the brake warms up a bit. I wonder if siping, or cutting groves in the brake shoe would help - thus reducing the surface area of the shoe that makes contact with the drum.

Clean up the pads and drums and run er until it gums up again. Or disable the back brakes.
Both sound silly unless it’s your only daily driver. In which case

Swapping axles soon, no desire to repair this one properly. Just want a bandaid get me by.

So you have to drive this and are good with basically half brakes? I guess as long as you’re not relying on other drivers not cause you to slam on your brakes and have them work well.