rear right sits lower then left??????

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codesteez

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hey guys i have a 1986 c10 and im just curious what is causing this. i sure that it is either the rear right leaf is bad or the shock could be bad. i need some steering in the right direction my right rear of my truck sits about one to two inches lower than my left side it drives me absolutely CRAZY. idk if a bad shock is causing this or the leaf just would like it to go away and be cheap. a slight lift of the bumper picks it up eaxatly were i want it haaa lemme know thanks guys
 

HotRodPC

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I had a buddy say the same thing once. It took me forever to prove to him his truck was fine. His driveway was not level. Street's are not level and so on. Just saying, make sure it's not the place you're parking the truck. There is such thing as road crown and many times a driveway works out that way too. Roads are done this way on purpose for drainage.

I finally had my buddy back his truck into the driveway. And would you believe, now it sits lower on the left than it did the right. Yeah, the driveway was 2 inches lower on the right side.

The other thing it could have been is the PO had a fat girlfriend.

Shocks should not cause the problem unless it's air shocks. All shocks do is hold the tires to the pavement in higher speed and control body bounce. They do not carry weight as so many think, UNLESS they've added overload springs or air shocks.

Could be a tired spring but I'd check other things first like spring bushings. You shouldn't have bushings to bolt the bed down if that's what you're using to guage from. If it's the bumper you're using, make sure the bumper brackets aren't bent or one side has come loose and not in the same position as the left.
 

codesteez

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yes i have checked it always does it sometimes i face the wrong way on the street so i dont have to look at it. see this is were ur making sense i told my gf she wearing out my passenger side. so now i have one more question the space between my bed of my truck and the cab driver side very clean not a big gap the passenger side on the other hand little bigger gap between bed and cab dont know if that helps anything or not but i wanted to tell you that. so my leafs could be fine what it could be is bushings huh? i took a quick look at the bed while back real quick look seemed like rivets not bolts on the brackt from the truck bed to the frame. maybe my bed is a little outta wake clean title truck btw oh thanks for the response so quick
 

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yes, the spring hangers by factory are rivets. Heavy rivets at that. So I doubt the spring hangers are the problem. As far as that gap between bed and cab, there really isn't much room for difference there, but someone may have had the bed off at one time, or yes, cab bushing could be tired. So what are you using to gauge that it's low. Are you looking at the bumper vs the ground? bed vs ground? bed across the back of the cab etc?
 

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TSB from GM. I edited out the procedures for the front end:

NUMBER: 86-B-74

GROUP: 3D - Rear Suspension

DATE: April, 1986
SUBJECT: VEHICLE TRIM HEIGHT LOW ON ONE SIDE

MODELS: 1973-1986 C/K TRUCKS
A condition may exist on certain C/K trucks where the vehicle appears to lean, usually to the driver's side. The following procedure can be used to repair this condition:

SERVICE PROCEDURE

1. Check for proper tire size and inflation and correct if necessary.

2. The vehicle must be empty, placed on a level shop floor and jounced to release any residual frictional loading in the suspension.

Fig 1
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3. Measure from ground to sheet metal at the top center of the front wheel opening on each side of the vehicle (see Figure No. 1). Repeat on the rear wheel openings.

4. If little difference is found (3/4 inch or less side to side), check the bumper and exterior trim alignment. Misaligned bumpers and trim could cause the vehicle to appear to lean even if it does not. Note that a full fuel tank can cause 1/2 inch difference side to side at the front wheel opening compared to when the fuel tank is empty.

If more than 3/4 inch difference is found, suspension measurements should be made as described below while the vehicle is sitting on the level floor (not on a lift).


Fig 2

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6. In the rear, measure from the top of rear axle tube to the bottom of frame (see Figure No. 3), on each side.

7. Compare side to side measurements. The difference between each side should not exceed 3/8 inch at either the front or rear. Note that a full fuel tank can cause 1/4 inch difference in the rear suspension height as compared to an empty fuel tank.


If the difference is greater than 3/8 inch, check springs for correct part and proper installation. Replace incorrect springs. Also, on leaf springs, visually compare spring camber (arch) on the low side with the spring on the high side. The camber (arch) should be similar. Switch leaf springs from one side to the other and determine if this corrects the lean problem. If one spring is noticeably flatter than the other, replace the flatter spring or have the higher spring recambered to match the lower springs at a qualified spring rebuilder. The flatter spring cannot be recambered higher unless it is disassembled and each leaf is reformed and properly heated and quenched. This capability is not generally available apart from spring manufacturers. If a flat spring is cambered higher without heat treating, it will eventually flatten to its original state.

8. If springs have correct part numbers, the suspension can be leveled using standard spring shims available at spring shops. Shims are not to exceed a total of 1/2 inch.

9. If suspension is level and lean persists, check the body mounts. Inspect body mount cushions, check that they are not crushed or split, and replace as necessary.

10. If the condition has not been corrected by utilizing the above listed procedures, the body can be shimmed to level the trim height.

Fig 3

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11. The body can be most easily shimmed by loosening all the body mounts and radiator support mounts, and shimming the rear body mount on the low side until the back is level. Body mount locations shown from the side of the vehicle and an example mount are shown in Figures No. 4a through 4d. Shim the middle body mounts on the low side only if necessary due to the space created by the rear shim. Tighten the body mounts using the following specifications:


Location Torque
C/K Pickup Cab Mounts 60-90 N-m (44-66 ft.lbs.)6 Forward Mounts on Suburban 4 Forward Mounts on K Jimmy
2 Radiator Supports 40-54 N-m (30-40 ft.lbs.)
C/K Pickup Bed Mounts 40-54 N-m (30-40 ft.lbs.)6 Rear Mounts on Suburban 4 Rear Mounts on K Jimmy

12. Step 11 can be repeated starting with the front low side mount and radiator support mount if necessary.
 

HotRodPC

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There you go Cody. Get you some of that !!!
 

codesteez

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haaa haaa look at this guy!!!! what im guaging it off of is the truck bed if you look up the right side of the bed towars the cab and across the tailgate the right back cornner is falling but i guess i have some measuring to do. this truck sat for a long time wen i got it there was tons of oil in the rear right corner with a tire sitting there like maybe it was a place for and old motor for a long time but never confirmed that i will measure up let you guys know
 

codesteez

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btw you guys r the **** always respond right away very helpful i absolutely love this site thanks guys
 

HotRodPC

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haaa haaa look at this guy!!!! what im guaging it off of is the truck bed if you look up the right side of the bed towars the cab and across the tailgate the right back cornner is falling but i guess i have some measuring to do. this truck sat for a long time wen i got it there was tons of oil in the rear right corner with a tire sitting there like maybe it was a place for and old motor for a long time but never confirmed that i will measure up let you guys know

That's a great observation and worthy of pointing out. So it does make sense that the right rear spring may have gotten a bit tired. You would too holding up a motor for a few years. And don't replace just the right spring cuz if you do, then your left side will be looking tired being the right side will be new fresh youngblood. You can prolly find a used matching set for about $50 or so, or new for about $200-$250.
 

codesteez

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Yes u are correct I would get very tired I love it thank you very much for jokes and the knowledge always very heplful
 

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Yes u are correct I would get very tired I love it thank you very much for jokes and the knowledge always very heplful

Keep in mind, since your working on a C10, you can go with either 52 or 56 inch rear springs. The 56's were used in Heavy Halfs and also can give a more comfy ride. If you have 52's now, you just drill your rear spring hanger rivets, and move the hangers back 4 inches to the other set of holes in the frame and bolt them back in with Grade 8 bolts, Lock Washers and Thread Locker. So if you can find a good used set, you can use either/or.
 

chevyk10

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The oil is an interesting part of this. I used to get this all the time from a long standing oil, power steering or other leak. If a spring is left soaked in oil for some time it will loose its temper and be weak. No need on trying to arch or fix it it's junk.


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HotRodPC

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The oil is an interesting part of this. I used to get this all the time from a long standing oil, power steering or other leak. If a spring is left soaked in oil for some time it will loose its temper and be weak. No need on trying to arch or fix it it's junk.


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That's good to know. I wasn't even referring to that. I was referring to it appeared that someone may have had an engine sitting in the right rear corner of the bed for a few years.
 

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Yep keep it washed off. People use to grease between the spring leaves. They found out it helped the squeak but weakened the springs.


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Stroked

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That's good info about the oil and grease on the leaf springs. I'll have to remember that.

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