Quadrajet tuning made easy

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idahovette

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Here in my neck of the woods, western Idaho, the $50 range and up is what I'm seeing. Gotta check 'em out though, some are CRAP!!
 

DoubleDingo

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You guys should know by now that anytime there is a post about the wonderful..choke...spit....sputter...quadrajet that I am going to throw the bait out there to see how many of you still bite!!! :gathering: LOL! My past experiences with Furds is why I drive nothing but Chevy and my past experiences with quadrajets is why I run nothing but HOLLEY!! Now where did that big boobed serving wench go and I'll get us another round!!!!:party52::party52::party52::party52::party52:CHEERS!

Oh yeah, but still had to add in the Q-Jet info in there...lol... :happy160:
 

82sbshortbed

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Thats why ive had em so long now. Thinking ill "use them one day". Nope...ill never use one again by choice. Especially 2 or 3. Figure I may as well get some $$$ for other parts.
From a quick search its Looking like I can get about $50-70 a carb just as a parts carb and these work well so maybe $100+... And more if someone gets them locally.


I'd give ya 100 bucks for the rebuilt one. Just got paid today and would like to have a spare one.
 

Swearbody

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I've never seen a Quadrajet for sale locally, but I've seen a few, rebuilt, cleaned, and ready to go for $200. Not sure if that's what they're selling for or not, but that's what they're asking.
ive seen anywhere from 200 to 425 online. We have a local guy who sells them for 325 looking like a new carb.
 

DoubleDingo

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ive seen anywhere from 200 to 425 online. We have a local guy who sells them for 325 looking like a new carb.

They don't need to look new to perform well. It's the quality of the rebuild that matters.
 

David Clark

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I used to build Q-jets as part of a job I had years ago. The one thing that trashes them is the primary shafts, they wear out the bores in the throttle body. Grab the linkage side and see if there is play in the shaft, if there is it will suck air and it is near impossible to get the idle right. These can be re-bushed. At one time I have a special drill bit to do this, it has a pilot shaft before as part of the bit to guide it straight through the bore. Then a bronze bushing could be pressed in. A few other things, if you put in a larger can you can't make it idle because the idle circuit is not adjustable, you have to use a letter drill to open these up, I'm thinking .021-.025 if i remember right. The video guy was right about the secondary spring. On the rear bores there are fuel wells that hold a shot so when the air door opens if feeds extra fuel to help prevent bog. This does a similar thing to a double pumper. The port for this is usually just above the air door, you can epoxy that hole and drill another just below where the air door meets the body so it draws that shot when the secondary throttle opens, makes the opening of the rear barrels a bit stronger hit. You can also bore the primary throttle bore and install larger blades from a 2GC and use a Dremel to control the body bore to make a smooth transition. This gives a big signal to the primary boosters and when you crack the throttle from idle the engine jumps harder. Mos of these floating around are 750cfm but there are a few 800cfm and those have a larger primary. I mostly saw these on the likes of Olds 455, Chevy 454, etc.. You can run these on a smaller engine but the jetting will be wrong across the entire range. I learned all of this from old articles years ago in Hot Rod, Popular Hot Rod and most were written by the Carb Shop in California. They also years ago had the parts and tools to do all this. Been so long since a Q-jet has been built my guess is the tools would be hard to find. I have seen the shaft bores drilled on a mill though so the bushings could be installed without needing the special drill.

Hope this helps someone.
DC
 

WesN

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I think 75monza and Clark have nailed it, tuning a Qjet is way more than setting the idle mixture and speed. It is just like the Holley and Carter’s they need to be jetted to your engine combination but sadly metering rods and hangers are hard to come by. Just a little add on to the video the vac choke pull off is very important adjustment especially in colder climates, on first fire up the choke needs to open slightly for the engine to stay running too little and it will flood and quit open too much and lean out and quit or backfire if you try to give a bit of throttle. For years I had a truck running 12.2sec @ 110 mph with you guessed it a Qjet.
 

82sbshortbed

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National carburetor they'd ship you bigger jets if you need them for 20 bucks. He said they tune them there depending on which one you want. Level 1 for stock and level 2 for motors with intake, cam and headders. I got the level 2 one from them since I had aftermarket intake cam and hedders. Really nice guys to call and ask questions about them.
 

82sbshortbed

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Well, I readjusted the choke back to richen it and get the choke plate to shut a little more. It fired right up cold with one pump. Even though I have to fan it a little and hold it at about 1k for about 30 sec then it idles but, I don't have to.pump it whiles it just turns over a bunch. Once its a little warn it fires right up without having to touch the throttle.

Guess I still need to get it to start and high idle to get rid of the throttle holding to warm it up.

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Turbo4whl

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you can make an engine run good with a holley or ederbrock.

If you want it to run right than you use a quadrajet

Everyone is missing how to make it all happen. You keep your cast iron spreadbore GM manifold. You add your correct CFM Holley spreadbore carb.

Proper heat cross over for cold starts. Still have that cool secondary sound the quadrajet guys like.

And you don't have to pull three quad's apart to find the new jets and rods.

:pokeowned:
 

Cdncarnut

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The proper and best method of tuning a quadrajet is to remove it from the intake and replace it with a HOLLEY!!!!!:party52::patriot:

I have to run a q-jet on my 69 Camaro Stock Eliminator. When I got the car, 6 years ago, I was lost. Since then, I have learned that they are not that complicated to tune. Now mind you, I do not have primary metering rods in mine, nor a choke, but neither of those are that difficult to deal with. For performance, the secondary air valve spring tension and secondary metering rod size are the most important, as they are fully engaged in wide open performance. Also, the float level has to be right and your fuel pump and needle valve needs to be able to keep up.
There are a couple of great books out there to help you.
 

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