New Problem, HELP!

[87ChevyR10]

When you pulled the cap, was there rusty metal bits laying in there? If the pickup coil failed (usually shatters) then you won't get fuel or spark.

I don't recall seeing any debris under the cap. I may have the pick up wires backwards though. My book didn't explain how the green and yellow wires 're attached.

 

[87ChevyR10]

If the pick up coil failed suddenly, would the engine act like I just shut it off?

 

[bucket]

I don't recall seeing any debris under the cap. I may have the pick up wires backwards though. My book didn't explain how the green and yellow wires 're attached.

I don't know if it matters, I've always put them back the same way. There's supposed to be a plastic connector that hold the wires together, but they get brittle and fall apart.

If the pick up coil failed suddenly, would the engine act like I just shut it off?

Yes.

 

[87ChevyR10]

I don't know if it matters, I've always put them back the same way. There's supposed to be a plastic connector that hold the wires together, but they get brittle and fall apart.



Yes.

Well, crap. Guess that means I need to pull out the dizzy then. Never done it before, makes me nervous. I've read about how to remove dizzy and such, just never needed to do it myself.

I've got my multimeter with me now; so, before I pull out the dizzy, I'm gonna check the leads coming from the pick-up coil first. I may get to do this until Sunday. I'm busy tomorrow and Saturday is bringing more rain/snow (yeah).

If the tests result in a failed pick-up coil, how much time is involved in replacing it?

Another q, how is the fuel system tied in with the pick-up coil? How is it when the coil fails, the TBI stops jetting fuel? Where is the correlation?

Thanks for the help!

 

[firebane]

Well, crap. Guess that means I need to pull out the dizzy then. Never done it before, makes me nervous. I've read about how to remove dizzy and such, just never needed to do it myself.

I've got my multimeter with me now; so, before I pull out the dizzy, I'm gonna check the leads coming from the pick-up coil first. I may get to do this until Sunday. I'm busy tomorrow and Saturday is bringing more rain/snow (yeah).

If the tests result in a failed pick-up coil, how much time is involved in replacing it?

Another q, how is the fuel system tied in with the pick-up coil? How is it when the coil fails, the TBI stops jetting fuel? Where is the correlation?

Thanks for the help!

I can't for the life of me remember when or where I read it but apparently there is a failsafe somewhere that gets trigged with a failed coil that causes a no start issue. I discovered this when the coil in my truck failed and came upon it during my massive googling searches.

What really clarified some things for me was the fact that when I pulled a plug and tried to start the truck it was yellow/orange not blue like it should be. And also I seem to vaguely recall that when the coil is gone it doesn't sent a proper signal to the ECM which causes the no start.

 

[87ChevyR10]

I can't for the life of me remember when or where I read it but apparently there is a failsafe somewhere that gets trigged with a failed coil that causes a no start issue. I discovered this when the coil in my truck failed and came upon it during my massive googling searches.

What really clarified some things for me was the fact that when I pulled a plug and tried to start the truck it was yellow/orange not blue like it should be. And also I seem to vaguely recall that when the coil is gone it doesn't sent a proper signal to the ECM which causes the no start.

Good info! I wish I had checked it first before spending all that money on a new ign. control module and coil; because, the p/u coil is the cheapest of the 3 parts.

I just hope I can reinstall the dizzy w/o screwing something else up and I hope I can do the whole thing in less than a day. What would you say is the hardest part during the process of replacing the p/u coil? Also, what is a good, sure-fire way to mark the dizzy for proper alignment?

On a side note, I really wish auto-makers would not use plastic tubing for vacuum lines and for the breather. They get incredibly brittle as they age. In the process of working at the back of the engine, I managed to break the breather tube that connects the right-side valve cover to the back of the TBI .

 

[bucket]

My thoughts have been if the pickup coil is bad, it's time for a new dizzy. But that's just me. Advance sells a complete new dizzy with module, cap and rotor for something like 110 bucks. Just put one in my buddy's truck last week.

 

[87ChevyR10]

My thoughts have been if the pickup coil is bad, it's time for a new dizzy. But that's just me. Advance sells a complete new dizzy with module, cap and rotor for something like 110 bucks. Just put one in my buddy's truck last week.

I prolly spent at least that much between a new ign. control mod, external coil, and new cap and rotor. For now, I don't see a need to replace dizzy. The shaft is solid, no play. I just need to get over my nerves about pulling it out and putting it back in. I'm gonna use masking tape to create the alignment marks for re-install. It doesn't really matter how it goes back in as long as the marks line up, right?

Something else I need to know (might be dumb), does the hood provide enough clearance for dizzy removal?

 

[bucket]

Yes, plenty of room to pull it up and out. You can just use a sharpie marker to mark where the rotor points on the dizzy body.

 

[87ChevyR10]

I spent a few minutes today to check the p/u coil and it is bad. The one lead could check before I froze read OL on the ohm meter.

I am considering having a shop fix my truck. It is too darn cold and I need my truck up and running asap. All my tools are elsewhere and I couldn't find the hold down for the dizzy. Too much stuff in the way.

 

[87ChevyR10]

Well, truck is in the shop now. It should be done today.

 

[89Suburban]

Hope you get rolling again man.

 

[87ChevyR10]

Just heard back from shop and truck is up and running! Gonna go get it tomorrow.

Its really sad though, $350 for a $20 part.

 

[89Suburban]

Sometimes you bite the bullet to save yourself some aggravation.

 

[MrMarty51]

Well there young feller, You did real good on the diagnosis.
Thank You for reporting back with what it took to get it up and running.
Do`nt be afraid to pull a distributor, not much to it really. Mark the base to the block, mark the rotors position.
I usually put it on TDC, then, it is much easier if something does go awry, to follow through using the book.
On the TBI models, it is much easier to get to the distributors hold down bolt with the MAP sensor and bracket removed.
If that one tube was that brittle, You might want to check the rest of the tubes and hoses too.