New Courtesy lamp switch is too long to let the door close.

[Goldilocks77]

I have a 77 C20 long bed. My passenger side courtesy lamp switch in the door frame isn’t working. I tried to clean it and refurbish it with contact cleaner but the contacts are shot. I’ve ordered two sets of switches from two different vendors and they are both oversized. The sleeve that the contract slides into is longer than the original so once installed, the door makes contact with the solid sleeve and won’t allow the door to close. Who makes new switches that are identical in dimension to the oem so I can resolve this issue. Maybe a trick or modification to the switch? Anybody else encounter this nonsense?

 

[Goldilocks77]

Here’s the original

 

[Ricko1966]

I think I'd cut the offending tube to match the O.E. switch with a dremel or hacksaw,then cut an equal amount from the stem of the switch,to use,while I looked for a new switch

 

[Matt69olds]

The grounding sleeve is a tight press fit into the switch housing. It self adjusts when you close the door.

Slowly close the door, the sleeve will slide ito the housing and stop where needed.

 

[idahovette]

^^^^^^THIS @Matt69olds is right!!^^^^^^^^^

 

[Goldilocks77]

Well I’ll be damned. Thanks @Matt69olds! I’ll give that a shot. I was worried about denting the door or the frame or both. Glad I asked. This is my first post on one of these threads. Seems like a great tool. Glad I did.

 

[mvzante]

Well I’ll be damned. Thanks @Matt69olds! I’ll give that a shot. I was worried about denting the door or the frame or both. Glad I asked. This is my first post on one of these threads. Seems like a great tool. Glad I did.

Did this work? I bought a new switch for my 81 from LMC but it is solid, there is no pushing the post into the nut. I even put it in my vice to try and push the post in and it just destroyed it.

Picture of before I tried pushing it in compared to my old one. Plus you'll notice the new one is not fully threaded so you can't even tighten it when installed.