Keep getting bad alternators??? On #4

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DoubleDingo

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.........There is an auto electric guy one town over I may visit. He helped me back when I drove a M1009 Cucv with dual alternators on a 24v system
That's a good idea.
 

SirRobyn0

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Good advice Rob. Im with you on the Stay away from napa starters and alternators waggon. Got bad ones for years. I got 3 bad starters for my square and gave up. Still using the newest broken one. Clicks allot before actually cranking.
I drive my truck to much to put up with a clicking starter! That's really to bad!
There is an older guy in Ontario Oregon(20 miles) that I go to for alternators and starters. He has been in business for almost 40 years and knows a LOT!!! Unfortunately, he is gonna retire and he can find NO ONE that wants to learn the trade and take over. Would be a great business to get into? His starters and alternators are top of the line and he doesn't have hardly any come backs. Usually it's operator error, if something doesn't work. Beats the hell out of NAPA, Autozone, or Oreillys........and reasonable!!!!!
Yea, there used to be a guy in my area. When I first met him he had a shop and 4 employees. Eventually it was just him, then he closed his store front and worked out of his garage. I asked him when he closed his actual store front what happened. He said he can't compete price wise with the cheap auto parts rebuild units. So basically a guy rebuilding top notch starters and alternators was run out of business by poorly built cheap parts because he refused to make a crappy product.
 

squaredeal91

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@SirRobyn0
I have a hot wire direct from battery. And one direct from starter. I touch the 2 together to make it start because ive fried at least 3 cheap starter buttons. I eliminated all original wiring and still getting the click click click. I even once tried for a short time eliminating solenoid on starter and wired in a ford solenoid down on starter and
still same thing. I'll eventually break down and get another delco.
 

Frankenchevy

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Radiohead

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Haven't had problems with anything that had a Bosch label on it. From sensors to starters to fuel pumps. It's all been good. And I don't like German vehicles.
Nope, but they can pour all that 'German engineering' in to making a superior product if they want. These bigger OE parts makers have a reputation to nurture, there's no money in making crap (unless it's China I guess).
 

SirRobyn0

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@SirRobyn0
I have a hot wire direct from battery. And one direct from starter. I touch the 2 together to make it start because ive fried at least 3 cheap starter buttons. I eliminated all original wiring and still getting the click click click. I even once tried for a short time eliminating solenoid on starter and wired in a ford solenoid down on starter and
still same thing. I'll eventually break down and get another delco.
Gee that's just terrible, I'd be super frustrated.
 

SirRobyn0

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@fast 99 & @Radiohead I agree bosch electrical parts are good for sure, even though I didn't think of them when I made recommendations. Believe it or not we've have been using a lot of masterpro fuel pumps. We can get them for less $$ at O'reilly's, and get this, masterpro the O'reilly's house brand fuel pump is made in the USA.
 

Ricko1966

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I did get 12 volts at alt plug - just wondered if the bulb receptacle could be shorting or something like that

Are Bosch alternators any count?
There is an auto electric guy one town over I may visit. He helped me back when I drove a M1009 Cucv with dual alternators on a 24v system
There are 2 wires in the alternator plug 1 is constant 12v 1 is dash bulb switched 12v. Make sure both are working. You can use a test light in place of the dash light to see if you excite it, it starts charging. With the truck running hook a 12 v test light to battery + terminal, touch the testlight prong to terminal 1 on the alternator, that should excite the alternator. If that does the trick you know it's in the dash bulb exciter circuit. Read my previous post about this,it tells you how to check all the wires in the circuit.
 
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Octane

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I'm working on replacing my 2nd bad Napa fuel pump.Since December '23.
 

fast 99

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I'm working on replacing my 2nd bad Napa fuel pump.Since December '23.
Have posted this before. After going through 3 new pumps in about 200 miles did a little research. Appears some manufacturers have omitted the return spring on top of the pump arm. First few did not have the spring. Pump arm would stick at about mid travel resulting in next to no fuel volume. AC pumps still have the return spring. Bought spares now. Picture of spring below.

Ethanol was not causing the issue; this truck only gets E free.
 

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Octane

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Have posted this before. After going through 3 new pumps in about 200 miles did a little research. Appears some manufacturers have omitted the return spring on top of the pump arm. First few did not have the spring. Pump arm would stick at about mid travel resulting in next to no fuel volume. AC pumps still have the return spring. Bought spares now. Picture of spring below.

Ethanol was not causing the issue; this truck only gets E free.
My pump has the spring under the arm.The ones I bought did not.At the time could not find one with return spring.Advance Auto has them.Just got one with the spring and installed.Truck runs! For now? Lol.This one pumps and doesnt make that knocking noise
 

Octane

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Second day(02/25/24) running new fuelpump.All is good so far.Maybe it'll last another month!
 
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Octane

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Are they all the same brand/rebuilding? Which one?
Cardone maybe?
A few years ago I had a bad experience with Cardone parts too.
 

fast 99

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A few years ago I had a bad experience with Cardone parts too.
Cardone is hit and miss. Some parts there's no other option.

Think they quit selling rebuilt carbs but back when they did, I always asked the counter person if they had more than 1 because it usually took a couple to get a usable part. Only bought them when linkage was missing or had broken housings. Almost all of them needed work of some sort, never was an easy bolt.
 

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