Good street cam?

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suburbanaddict

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Looking to rebuild the engine in my suburban, looking to get a good cam I don't have to majorly modify the engine (i am most likely going to get a set of heads)
 

75gmck25

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With stock heads and low compression you usually want duration less than about [email protected], and this is RV cam territory. You can go higher if you have more compression, but the power/torque band also moves up in RPM when you increase duration. The GMPP 350/290hp is a good (or bad) example where they use a [email protected] cam with 8.1 compression smog heads. Poor low end power and bad gas mileage is the result.

Also, if you have something like 3.08 gears and a stock torque converter you might not get rpm up quick enough to use the extra torque when you want that burst of power.
 

bucket

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Looking to rebuild the engine in my suburban, looking to get a good cam I don't have to majorly modify the engine (i am most likely going to get a set of heads)

If you are changing heads, you need to know what you are looking for before deciding on a cam. Also, your block might very well have all provisions for a factory type roller cam. If so, that opens up your options a bunch too.

I usually bump up to an rv cam. Some people might go more but I think it's a nice mild cam.

You know, I was just thinking... why do we still generalize mild cams as an "RV" cam? Nobody really ever uses the "3/4 race cam" term anymore and yet, we all still happily call them RV cams. Where are these people that cam their RV's anyways? Lol.
 

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I rebuilt my 350 with PCI (chineseium) smallest intake runner aluminum heads, mild dual plane aluminum intake, new edlebrock avs2 carb, and STOCK cam. Its fine for cruising and has gobs of low end torque. So much that I can start from 3rd gear, and its hard to kill the engine in second. For street use, its all about intake velocity, which you get with the stock or just over stock lift cam. You need the longer duration when you want higher rpm power.
 

fast 99

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Above comments are correct. One thing I will add is don't over cam it. That is what others are suggesting. A suburban usually weights in the 6k area. Big lift, high duration cams will kill low end torque, HP and millage.

Might be a good idea to call a cam manufacturer and see what they recommend. Don't call a general parts supplier, go directly to the manufacturer.
 

PrairieDrifter

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If you are changing heads, you need to know what you are looking for before deciding on a cam. Also, your block might very well have all provisions for a factory type roller cam. If so, that opens up your options a bunch too.



You know, I was just thinking... why do we still generalize mild cams as an "RV" cam? Nobody really ever uses the "3/4 race cam" term anymore and yet, we all still happily call them RV cams. Where are these people that cam their RV's anyways? Lol.
Pickup bed campers are kind of making a comeback! So we might still be okay! lol

But realistically we're Americans and we get set in our old ways and hate change. lolol
 

Octane

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Those rv'ers dont need to ever replace their cams, most I've ever saw was low mileage rv's, sitting in the backyards for twenty years. Lol.
 

rich weyand

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Remember: You race horsepower, but you drive torque.
The first several hits on the link below include summaries of the cam research I did on the 350s. An 'RV cam' is the right choice. Those are the cams mfrs put in RVs when they're built, to make those heavy vehicles driveable. I actually went to a marine cam and got 422 lb-ft of torque and maybe 275 hp. Pulled off the line like a gorilla.
Google search: weyand cam 350
 

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if u call a cam company the first thing they are going to ask u what heads are u running they match the cam to the heads how mutch according to what your heads flow.
 

Catbox

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Here are three simple cams for example.
They range from mild to mild and should give you some extra pep in your step.
This would be similar to an "RV" style cam.
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There is nothing exotic about any of these engine combos.
Simple rebuilt heads will do fine and a simple low rise aluminum dual plane with headers.
Boom!
Off to the mild races you go!
 

Octane

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Remember: You race horsepower, but you drive torque.
The first several hits on the link below include summaries of the cam research I did on the 350s. An 'RV cam' is the right choice. Those are the cams mfrs put in RVs when they're built, to make those heavy vehicles driveable. I actually went to a marine cam and got 422 lb-ft of torque and maybe 275 hp. Pulled off the line like a gorilla.
Google search: weyand cam 350
I put an rv cam in a short wheelbase 1975,350 chevy van once. It did make a difference. Especially with the better intake I put on it.
I need one in my 77 chevy 4x4 ... one day.
 

Craig Nedrow

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Got an RV cam in my truck

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