Clearance issues with lowering spindles and what you did about it…

[ChuckN]

As seen in the “today” thread, I just got my ‘81 C10 on the ground. Rear flip kit with shock extenders, and the front are 2.5” drop spindles with CPP 2.5” drop springs and CPP tubular control arms. I’m trying like hell to stay with the stock 15x8 rally wheels just because I love that classic look.

Initially I was having issues with the clamp on weights- had stickies put on and then the wheels turned free, but things were close and spindle tie rod connection and also the lower ball joint.

I got it out of the garage and down to the main drag and immediately turned around. I heard a low pitch rub and a high pitch screech. I parked it, went inside and took a deep breath. Getting a little exhausted, spending every day off on my truck and doing nothing else, so I took a nap.

I’ll get it back on the stands tomorrow and take off the wheels. I know for sure it’s hitting the spindles at the tie rods, maybe the ball joint as well. The internet is crawling with these stories. After I take a breather tonight, I’ll see what I’m up against tomorrow evening.

For those who have had this issue, what did you do? Spacers? Get out the grinder? Give up and go to another set of wheels? Watch a movie and zone out?

There will always be issues, and I’m not afraid of that, but I don’t want to just give up on the rallies (or go to a narrower set. Please post your experience.

 

[Ricko1966]

You'll need to see how bad it's rubbing. Not on a square don't even know it's possible on a square You'll have to look and judge.Ive had to grind and put a spacer between a wheel brg and spinde to gain a little clearance you can't get much but you may not need much,also on some brake kits,for A bodies you have to put a shim between the inner bearing and hub,just a couple idea if you don't need much.

 

[ChuckN]

You'll need to see how bad it's rubbing. Not on a square don't even know it's possible on a square You'll have to look and judge.Ive had to grind and put a spacer between a wheel brg and spinde to gain a little clearance you can't get much but you may not need much,also on some brake kits,for A bodies you have to put a shim between the inner bearing and hub,just a couple idea if you don't need much.

Thanks, I appreciate your input. It’s those little tricks like that, that are just enough. I had some project fatigue going, so I didn’t want to look today. Here’s to a quick break and I’ll see what’s up tomorrow night.

 

[bluex]

If you have 15x8 wheels all around a 15x7 up front will give some extra clearance. Other than that you've got to grind the steering arm or run a spacer. With the cpp a-arm it shouldn't be interfering at the ball joint. I would be hesitant to grind on that a-arm but I've beveled a bunch of steering arms for clearance. They have plenty of meat on them a grinding an angle so it doesn't rub won't hurt it at all.

Larger wheels would do it to but that's not the answer you want to hear lol.

 

[ChuckN]

If you have 15x8 wheels all around a 15x7 up front will give some extra clearance. Other than that you've got to grind the steering arm or run a spacer. With the cpp a-arm it shouldn't be interfering at the ball joint. I would be hesitant to grind on that a-arm but I've beveled a bunch of steering arms for clearance. They have plenty of meat on them a grinding an angle so it doesn't rub won't hurt it at all.

Larger wheels would do it to but that's not the answer you want to hear lol.

Thanks, good to know about the steering arm. And I’m not sure excited about grinding on the CPP, hopefully that won’t be the issue.

It’s interesting the range of results that I’ve found. One old archived thread from years ago was about Mc- whatever drop spindles causing issues with rallies, and others says they had no problems at all, for instance. I think there’s a lot of production tolerance variation in both our trucks and the spindles that are out there.

One fun fact that I didn’t realize- or that I read anyway- is that the aftermarket spindles are a little thicker because the stock parts are forged steel and the aftermarket is cast iron.

 

[bluex]

There are alot less clearance issues with a 15x7 or a 15x6 wheel. Some people probably think they have 8" wheels when in reality they don't. The drop spindle brand really doesn't matter, they are cast in 2 places so they are basically the same regardless of who's name is on the box.

 

[TotalyHucked]

I had 15x8s on my truck for a while with 2.5" McGaughy's spindles and cut stock springs. The wheel weights would rub on the front edge of the lower control arms (OE) but I was just careful not to go full lock. Had I kept them on, I would've just cut that ~2in of front lip off the LCA.

I did rub on the steering arm pretty good so I just got out the grinder with a flap disk and went to town. Took off the minimum amount to make it clear and it's been fine for nearly 40k miles. I definitely would be a little leery of grinding on that CPP lower arm. I might give them a call and ask to speak to their tech dept to see if they've run into that.

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[Elliot W]

There are alot less clearance issues with a 15x7 or a 15x6 wheel. Some people probably think they have 8" wheels when in reality they don't. The drop spindle brand really doesn't matter, they are cast in 2 places so they are basically the same regardless of who's name is on the box.

Glad to hear this. I went with some cheapos on ebay and got them at $175 for the pair. Regretted my decision when they shipped to my house and both had the caliper tabs broken off in shipping. New set is on the way from the same seller and I'm (reluctantly) hoping for the best.

 

[ChuckN]

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Found the culprit. Bottom of the ball joint on the CPP control arm.

 

[ChuckN]

I had 15x8s on my truck for a while with 2.5" McGaughy's spindles and cut stock springs. The wheel weights would rub on the front edge of the lower control arms (OE) but I was just careful not to go full lock. Had I kept them on, I would've just cut that ~2in of front lip off the LCA.

I did rub on the steering arm pretty good so I just got out the grinder with a flap disk and went to town. Took off the minimum amount to make it clear and it's been fine for nearly 40k miles. I definitely would be a little leery of grinding on that CPP lower arm. I might give them a call and ask to speak to their tech dept to see if they've run into that.

You must be registered for see images attach

I’m officially dead in water. I even tried some 1” billet spacers that just showed up. The “hub ring” on the spacer (they said they’re made for my truck, but clearly they’re made for a hubcentric vehicle) are too big to fit in the center hole of the wheel.

I tried a 5/16 spacer but it only leaves about 4 threads for the lug nut, so the studs are too short for that.

If CPP says tomorrow that it’s not safe to grind any of extra that material off, then I really only have three options. Put longer studs in the disc so I CAN run a thin spacer, put back the stock spindle and raise up the rear a little, or new wheels and tires. What a pain in the ass. Should’ve left the damn thing alone.

 

[Bennyt]

It'll all be worth it in the end! Truck looks great!

 

[ChuckN]

It'll all be worth it in the end! Truck looks great!

Thanks! Just venting and trying to figure it out, that’s all.

 

[Ricko1966]

Not my favorite, but.

 

[ChuckN]

Not my favorite, but.

Mine either. But I’d give it a shot if nothing else. Can’t see what website that’s from- care to share?

 

[Ricko1966]

Mine either. But I’d give it a shot if nothing else. Can’t see what website that’s from- care to share?

Don't know off the top off my head I'll find it and check back.