Big oil filter downsides? such as WIX 51794 or ACDelco PF932

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Fastduramax

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Im not sure what the part number is but You can use a duramax oil filter on a big block chevy. Bigger and higher micron I guess. Been running one for years in the 454.
I hope you meant lower micron !
 

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I want to interject something here. The oil filter bypasses,circulates unfiltered oil,via a bypass when there is too much restriction in the filter. Things that would at least in theory contribute to this bypass,would be a finer micron filter,too thick of oil,too high pressure oil pump,and of course a plugged filter. Now when we start playing with things we need to take this into consideration. Let's say I've got a high volume pump,running 60psi oil pressure,got a fine micron filter,running thick oil,and never really make long drives getting things hot,not only to evaporate the moisture out of the oil but also never gets to proper viscosity. Now how much of the time is my oil not being filtered at all. Just through the screen through the pump,into the oil galleys. Just food for thought.
 
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vr1967

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More filter effectiveness, quicker plugging results. long term things like Wix XP filters are made to be used for multiple oil changes but sacrifice filtration for being able to run longer

if you have clean oil and change regularly, not a factor to worry about
I fully agree with her last sentence.

If you are running a good oil and filter, and decent oil change intervals, you shouldn’t have a bunch of crud in your engine to plug a filter.

I have a 2011 5.3 that I started changing oil in in 2012, when the “free for the first year” dealer oil changes ran out. He would only go by the OLM, which is 12,000 miles on the vehicle, which I think is too long. I change every 6,000 with Mobil1 full synthetic

I went to running regular Wix filters (21 micron) and it now has over 300k miles on it. Had valve cover off a while back and it still looks new inside.

It also still has the original AFM cam and lifters, with no issues.


I run the 51794 on my 6.2 diesel, along with a Humvee oil pan to get an even 3 gallons of oil in it with cooler.
 

Fat 454

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If you aim is to extend the life of the engine, you want to instal a bypass type oil filter. The regular spin on filter is a "full flow" type, ie all the oil flows directly through the filter on the oil pump circuit. Because of this, the filter matrix must have pores large enough to not reduce the flow rate, as that would send the oil pressure up too high. The down side is that microscopic dirt can travel through the filter and back into the engine bearings etc.
A bypass filter does not take the direct full flow from the oil pump, and therefore can have a finer filter that cleans the oil better. Cleaner oil means longer bearing life.
Look up the FRAM type bypass filters that used to be fitted to Buicks etc. Same for the old Porches and many other performance cars. It is basically a can containing a fine filter. The in-flow oil is typically plumbed from a T on the oil sender outlet. The return line can be tapped back into the crank case. A restrictor is usually in the circuit to ensure the filter does not become over pressurised.
Fitting a bypass will require an increase in oil capacity overall, however will have little impact on cooling. You will need an additional full flow oil cooler for temperature reduction.
Gauges ( oil pressure and temperature ) are good to figure out what impacts changes to the oiling system are having on your engine.
 

1lejohn

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It was interesting. Dad even tried Arco graphite but that stuff was junk.
I think there was a class action lawsuit against Arco for that oil. If I remember correctly it clogged up the oil passages, filters etc. It didn't happen in all climates, probably the cold ones.
 

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Speaking of oil consumption, this is interesting reading for future LS engine owners:


Just now heard of it.
My 2019 Tahoe SSV (my prior issued police car) with the 5.3 burned a ton of oil in between oil changes, and it did not do a lot of idling. My current Tahoe, a 2023 SSV, was towed to the dealer yesterday. Turns out it needs lifters, and the cam is wiped out. It has 12,000 miles on it. I suspect it is a victim of the Displacement on Demand. I would never spend my own money on this garbage.
 

AuroraGirl

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I fully agree with her last sentence.

If you are running a good oil and filter, and decent oil change intervals, you shouldn’t have a bunch of crud in your engine to plug a filter.

I have a 2011 5.3 that I started changing oil in in 2012, when the “free for the first year” dealer oil changes ran out. He would only go by the OLM, which is 12,000 miles on the vehicle, which I think is too long. I change every 6,000 with Mobil1 full synthetic

I went to running regular Wix filters (21 micron) and it now has over 300k miles on it. Had valve cover off a while back and it still looks new inside.

It also still has the original AFM cam and lifters, with no issues.


I run the 51794 on my 6.2 diesel, along with a Humvee oil pan to get an even 3 gallons of oil in it with cooler.
Not to say AFM is inherently bad, but dont you think maybe a lifter replacement is due so you dont have a catastrophic death of them? 300k is insanely good mileage /luck or maybe its a factor of your persistence to maintain , but id be airing on the side of replacement to at least make the likihood of sudden death less possible
 

AuroraGirl

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I want to interject something here. The oil filter bypasses,circulates unfiltered oil,via a bypass when there is too much restriction in the filter. Things that would at least in theory contribute to this bypass,would be a finer micron filter,too thick of oil,too high pressure oil pump,and of course a plugged filter. Now when we start playing with things we need to take this into consideration. Let's say I've got a high volume pump,running 60psi oil pressure,got a fine micron filter,running thick oil,and never really make long drives getting things hot,not only to evaporate the moisture out of the oil but also never gets to proper viscosity. Now how much of the time is my oil not being filtered at all. Just through the screen through the pump,into the oil galleys. Just food for thought.
also something to note, im not sure if its all LS engines, if truck engines have these, or if it was only the LS4 in fWd cars, but the oil pressure sending unit has a screen that sits before the sending unit on the LS4 at least, so maybe others to, which can get debris on it and make oil pressure readings inaccurate so something to consider
 

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But i wonder if the larger mass of oill in the filter would take more force to move it out of the filter which would decrease oil flow.
Pressure is resistance to flow. So no, larger filter will not raise pressure, keeps it lower longer.

The medium duty tall block 366's and 427's all used the AC 2 quart filter. Also back when most of the medium duty fleet had gasoline engines, tune ups included compression and cylinder leak down tests. The GM tall blocks always had the lowest consistent percentage of leak down compared to Ford and International.
 

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Wow I never knew this! Factory recommendations used to be just opposite,change oil every 3000,change the filter every other oil change.
Factory said to use conventional, with passing referencve of synthetic for extreme conditions or longer mileage sometimes.
 

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Not to say AFM is inherently bad, but dont you think maybe a lifter replacement is due so you dont have a catastrophic death of them? 300k is insanely good mileage /luck or maybe its a factor of your persistence to maintain , but id be airing on the side of replacement to at least make the likihood of sudden death less possible
So who do you recommend for replacement lifters? I’ve seen GM replacements that didn’t last 10k, BTR and Michigan Motorsports that lasted about the same, and when pulled apart, looked to be exactly the same as some cheap chinese ebay specials a buddy has.

The replacements we have dealt with are so bad, we are buying used engines to salvage the original lifters!

Who provides a replacement that will last 300k?
 

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