383 Build

[HotRodPC]

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HRS-180305-08/
Im thinking about using this cam i heard howards cams are some of the best

I had a lunati bracket master 2 almost with the same specs i loved the sound of this cam and figure it will sound the same but even better bein a 383

Are you asking cuz you want to get talked into it, or are you asking cuz you want to get talked out of it???

Honestly, I don't like it !!! A few things wrong with it IMO. Now, if you are just wanting something to sound good and mean, then you got it. But I honestly think that will be a ALL SHOW, as in sound, but NO GO. Granted, That's an exaggeration, cuz it will go, but you better have a whole lotta stall cuz it won't make good power in the low end at all. If it was just strip truck, then sure, go for it, but even then, if its a strip truck, find something that will turn some rpm since SBC's love rpm. Get up into a power band range of at least 6000 and better yet to 6500 if you are wanting a top end cam and that is what you chose there.

I'd go with something in the 1500-1800 low side power band range, and up to 5800-6000 rpm and on a 110-112 LCA instead of 108. Lower the LCA the higher the rpm range for torque. The Highter LCA like 110-112 and even 114 are for low end grunt That would be my choice for a potential both street and strip truck.

 

[HotRodPC]

Notice the cam you chose has a power band range of 2000-5500 rpm with a choppy idle and the lobe seperation is 108 degrees.

Here is a similar lift and duration cam at 112 lobe seperaion, but the power band range is 1800-6000 rpm and the idle is said to be fair not choppy. This cam will turn on the power band good with only a 2000 stall converter, great for the street, and generate less heat, and eat your cake too, it'll still pull hard to 6000 rpm instead of peter out at 5500.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HRS-110041-12/
So again, do you want the choppy idle sound or a slightly lopey idle but better for the street and still have enough guts for the track???

 

[82chevy350]

Well im wanting to go with a hyd roller cam instead of flat tappet
my first thought was getting the lt4 hotcam but i hear howards make cams that will out do the lt4 hotcam

 

[HotRodPC]

You can get just about any grind of cam in any format you want, hyd flat tappet, mechanical flat tappet, roller, whatever you choose. The same applies with LCA/LSA. Also, everyone can make a grind that out does the LT4 hot cam.

 

[82chevy350]

idk i just like a good lopey sound but i want performance out of it too
so find a cam with 110-123 LSA
Im just trying to find some ideas and some sugestions and keep from building a motor thats a dog lol.

 

[hirschdalechevy]

idk i just like a good lopey sound but i want performance out of it too
so find a cam with 110-123 LSA
Im just trying to find some ideas and some sugestions and keep from building a motor thats a dog lol.

If you want a bad ass stroker , first you need to find a bad ass machine shop!!!!! (remember we are not talking rv cammed flat top piston stock headed everyday sbc motor's). Walk into your machine shop , tell him your combo of part's and if they pick a cam out for you (any brand or size) , run away and find another shop!!!!!!!!!!!!

Ok here we go , What your piston's say on the box does'nt mean anything (9.7 with 76cc head's etc...) That is just a rough guess of what they will be in a perfect world. You cannot pick a cam out until you know what your real compression ratio is , because it's all about cylinder pressure , to big of a cam , low pressure = no power at low end , to small of a cam , high pressure = pump gas detonation (no good).
A good machine shop will square deck the block and check how far the pistons are in the hole , ( no two bock's are the same) and then take that # add it to the compressed head gasket thickness # and then add that to the cc of the heads you are using (checked as well) and that will give you your real static compression number . Then you can chose a cam to adjust your dynamic compression # to give you good cylinder pressure , (high as you can for pump gas) around 175lbs , then you will have a bad ass running motor.

There is lot's of other things to think about when building a motor for pump gas and power but that should get you started.

What I would do power and mileage is build and aluminum headed , quench stroker motor .

sorry for the long post but dont let anybody pic a cam out for you with out knowing your real (checked out)static compression ratio first , if you just go with what somebody pic's out of a book or what somebody else has ran before you are rolling the dice.

 

[HotRodPC]

I agree with hirsch. In short what he is saying, if you're building a bad ass stroker, you do have some more homework to do. I gathered you weren't real serious about a bad ass stroker when you mentioned that cam, and it SOUNDED mean. Sounding mean isn't **** IMO. Not a run down here, but it's going to come across that way, but just sayin. I've beat the livin **** out of BOYS on the street, and the track loping off the motor mounts, with motors that SOUNDED like grandma's Buick, while their's SOUNDED tough as hell. I like sleepers and element of suprize the best rather than SOUNDING tough.

 

[hirschdalechevy]

Notice the cam you chose has a power band range of 2000-5500 rpm with a choppy idle and the lobe seperation is 108 degrees.

Here is a similar lift and duration cam at 112 lobe seperaion, but the power band range is 1800-6000 rpm and the idle is said to be fair not choppy. This cam will turn on the power band good with only a 2000 stall converter, great for the street, and generate less heat, and eat your cake too, it'll still pull hard to 6000 rpm instead of peter out at 5500.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HRS-110041-12/
So again, do you want the choppy idle sound or a slightly lopey idle but better for the street and still have enough guts for the track???

Agree^^^^^^^^^^ the 108 lobe sep cam's have rougher idles and a much sharper tq curve , the 112 , 114 cam's have better idle's and a broad tq curve , better for street use , imo.
Another thing to think about is that stroker motor's with good head's soak up camshaft's duration's so you can get away with a little more cam than you think.

 

[hirschdalechevy]

I agree with hirsch. In short what he is saying, if you're building a bad ass stroker, you do have some more homework to do. I gathered you weren't real serious about a bad ass stroker when you mentioned that cam, and it SOUNDED mean. Sounding mean isn't **** IMO. Not a run down here, but it's going to come across that way, but just sayin. I've beat the livin **** out of BOYS on the street, and the track loping off the motor mounts, with motors that SOUNDED like grandma's Buick, while their's SOUNDED tough as hell. I like sleepers and element of suprize the best rather than SOUNDING tough.

Very true , it's all about the right combo and machine work and then look out!!!!!

 

[82chevy350]

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SO heres what i got so far
Alluminum RPM Air Gap Intake
Alluminum Dart Pro 1 Heads 58cc with 200cc Runner
1 inch carb Spacer
Flat Top pistons 4 valve relief
Eagle 5.7 I beam rods
Eagle Ext Carnk 383
Balanced flywheel and Flexplate
Crane Cam 1.5 Full roller rocker arms 350 Vortec Block bored .30 over and clearanced for crank

 

[HotRodPC]

You must be registered for see images

SO heres what i got so far
Alluminum RPM Air Gap Intake
Alluminum Dart Pro 1 Heads 58cc with 200cc Runner
1 inch carb Spacer
Flat Top pistons 4 valve relief
Eagle 5.7 I beam rods
Eagle Ext Carnk 383
Balanced flywheel and Flexplate
Crane Cam 1.5 Full roller rocker arms 350 Vortec Block bored .30 over and clearanced for crank

ewww ahhhhh, Engine Parts !!!

Pistons Forged? 5.7 Rods??? Not strokin to 383? Why am I thinking a Stroker kit should use shorter rods? Unless maybe the difference is made up in the compression height of the wrist pins in the piston?
Why just OEM 1.5 rockers? If I'm buying roller rockers, I'm sure gonna consider 1.6 rockers to get a bit more lift out of the cam, especially since your not running Vortec heads that restrict your lift.
Whoa Nelly !!! You're boring your block into the water jackets at a 1/3 of an inch. I got your back this time. You mean .030 over bore.

You running both an Auto and a Manual trans and need both a flexplate and flywheel? Or are you saying you have both that are balanced with the kit so you can swap later on to a different trans? I know sounds strange to some, but I did that. Depending on my mood, I could run a Th350 today, and tomorrow be running a Muncie M21, and next weekend feel like an automatic again. Just an FYI, Th350 short 6in tailshaft, and Muncie M20, M21 are direct swaps as far as length, so no driveshaft or crossmember mods needed. Now if you're running an M22 Rock Crusher, you'd need to swap the yoke, cuz it's finer splines and IIRC same as Th400, but still use the same driveshaft. Keep all that a secret though.

 

[82chevy350]

I bought a 383 stroker kit it uses 5.7 rods its got 383 pistons so its stroked lol
I got the roller rockers with the heads very low hours...
And the block is bored .030 over lol typo
Im thinking of running a howards oe roller cam not exactly sure yet...
Im trying to find a turbo 400 to rebuild i may need yalls help with tht im kinda iffy o transmissins

 

[HotRodPC]

I bought a 383 stroker kit it uses 5.7 rods its got 383 pistons so its stroked lol
I got the roller rockers with the heads very low hours...
And the block is bored .030 over lol typo
Im thinking of running a howards oe roller cam not exactly sure yet...
Im trying to find a turbo 400 to rebuild i may need yalls help with tht im kinda iffy o transmissins

Well, the crank is what makes it stroked. You still got 350 pistons, just that obviously the wrist pin is higher up in the piston to accomadate the longer 5.7 rod which is a standard SBC rod, instead of the SBC 400 rod. So did you buy the Crank kit used too or just the heads and rockers?

You don't have a cam yet? IIRC since you're using a Vortec block, which is a roller block, I do believe you don't have a choice and have to use a roller cam?!?!?! :shurg: Not 100% certain on that.

Is this build going in this 76 4x4 or another truck? What I'm asking is, are you needing a Th400 for 4x4 and if so which Tcase, or 2wd? I've got a Th400 truck core with deep pan and bolt on yoke for 2wd, but not for a 4x4. However, acquire the 4x4 output shaft, it can be converted to 4x4, but still have to use the 2wd TC cover.

 

[82chevy350]

Crank kit is brand new
I can use a flat tappet but to me that will be a waste of money id rather go roller
This is for my 82

 

[bucket]

I can use a flat tappet but to me that will be a waste of money id rather go roller

Very wise choice! Flat tappets are a thing of the past and have no benefits anymore. Cost is low, but only if you're lucky enough to have the cam survive.