What have you done to your square lately??

Been awhile hopefully everyone is doing good, today I loaded up the square and went to my buddy's place that has a TTspec truck with the ls3 I built to check it out and it sounds awesome

JamesSam said:

Jumped ports A and B turned ignition on, just for fun, 3 code 12's and then code 42. Was hoping it would only give back code 12 miraculously.

I then cleared code 42 via disconnecting the negative battery cable. Reconnected, jumped the ports, code 12 only, no codes. Took it for a quick run around the neighborhood listening to it and showing it I care. The truck ran normal and no check engine light.

I will take it for now.

I am waiting on an AC Delco ICM to arrive, supposedly today. I don't know if I am going to start there though. Looking over wiring, plugs, and grounds things seem to be ok. Although I really don't want it to come back, I am expecting to see more and need to trace down a toasted wire or replace parts. From the shop new rotor and cap were installed recently that had the truck running great. Then code 42, but cleared for now.

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Have to look very closely. You most likely have some voltage leakage from cap, coil, coil to cap wire, or plug wires.

Spritzing a mist of salt water around the area may show you where it is coming from. Carefully inspect all plug wires and cap-coil wire for insulation or boot cracks. Carefully look over the distributor cap and terminals.

I just chased a random code 42 and stalling issue for a month that started a week after cap/rotor/plug routine maintenance. Rang out all the ICM harness wires from ECM to ICM, ensured plug wires were not touching the ICM wires, swapped ICM with a spare, swapped ECM with my spare, replaced coil (it was pretty crusty and I had the part on hand). Last thing I could think of was to swap back to my spare cap I keep. It was the only thing left in the ignition system. When I pulled the”new cap” I immediately noticed one terminal was oddly discolored. I inspected the heck out of that boot and didn’t see an issue. Have about 750miles on it since I swapped the cap and no issues. I will warranty the cap/rotor and throw the new one in the truck as a spare.

Started redoing exhaust in the suburban

aasleson said:

Started redoing exhaust in the suburban

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Your post isn't funny, but what happed to it is. You literally just posted those same photos in your thread and it was fine. But you posted them here and THEN the forum software decided they needed approval. Computers are dumb, lol.

bucket said:

Your post isn't funny, but what happed to it is. You literally just posted those same photos in your thread and it was fine. But you posted them here and THEN the forum software decided they needed approval. Computers are dumb, lol.

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I was curious why it was flagged for approval too

Test fitted front grill and chrome today. I haven’t tightened everything but the bottom valence and grill has a lot of gap variation from the center to either side. Is this old truck normal look and space tolerances? Also, was considering using the cold air intake but it interferes with the radiator overflow tank, any options available for this issue?

aasleson said:

I was curious why it was flagged for approval too

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Whipping out your pipe and taking photos to post on the forum will get you flagged every time

Got the cab actually bolted down, got the engine fired.

In preparation for replacing the broken exhaust manifolds I was able to break all 16 bolts free after a couple days. Many came out easy, others wanted a fight but with patience, heat and penetrating oil I got all of them out, only to run them back in until replacement manifolds are here.

Along with replacement manifolds (Vintage GM stuff, same casting numbers just not broken and without the air injection fittings) I’ll get new bolts as the ones there now are very much a mixed batch!

Should look (and sound, as now I have an annoying exhaust leak) better with freshly blasted and painted manifolds


!

passed week or so:

-trimmed transmission dipstick tube, changed seal (leaking) as well as calibrating the stick to the pan seal
-replaced MAF sensor with a Delphi unit fixed the lean condition I've had for 2 years (got money back for faulty Duralast at AutoZone)
-replaced Spectre Air Filter
-replaced starter (DBElectrical ~$65 new) that would start the engine but sound like a not fully charged battery (click click click).....weird one....never seen or heard of that one

While I was replacing my front springs a while ago I noticed how bad my upper control arm and bushings were, so I decided I would replace them. Lowers are in good shape, so no need to touch them at this point.

I went with the Moog control arms. With the exception of the passenger side mounting bolts/nuts being very corroded and difficult to remove, the reset of the install went pretty smooth. Just kept the same shims in place for now, hope to get in and aligned this week.

Front clip is back to sitting on, accessory drive on the big block.

Until I get my buckets in, I have to deal with the bench seat and the belts that just lay on the seat. Using those belts requires me to hold the female side in my right hand, grab the male side, reach over myself and plug it into the female side. It's total pain.

I experimented with a 3-D print (a couple versions, actually) and am about where it needs to be. This has a slit on the bottom and the belt fits into it then flips. It holds the buckle pretty stable. Now, I just grab the belt, put it in my right hand and, with just one hand, am able to secure the belt.

The latest version has rounded edges.

The factory made those. Unfortunately, nobody seems to repop them.

The original ones turned the buckle 90° so it lined up with the belt blade when the belt was flat across your lap and chest, and it faced the release button to the outside.

Blue Ox said:

The factory made those. Unfortunately, nobody seems to repop them.

The original ones turned the buckle 90° so it lined up with the belt blade when the belt was flat across your lap and chest, and it faced the release button to the outside.

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I think that didn't start until '81, and the belts didn't protrude through the seat as far.

***Just going off memory here, about parts I don't normally pay much attention to***