post your worst stuck pics

[Tyger13us]

(I've never had a problem taking a 3970010 cast block to .060.)

those are the only blocks i use.. and if i remember right they come in 2 and 4 bolt mains,, 4 bolt i know for sure,, id have to go out and check some 2 bolts i have to be sure,, but i wont use a blue or black block.. if it runs? fix it and trade it for someones junk there going to scrap......

I should clarify? i wont build a motor with a blue or black block,, if its just for a pass or light go getter? then it will work ok.. but im talking about really BUILDING a motor,, 300hp and up.....

the 2 bolt main early blocks are stronger than the 4 bolt ones,, more nickle in the cast and weight 20-30 lbs heavier depending on the casting #..

Ive run MANY MANY MANY 2 bolt blocks and they will hold up and last longer,, while ive seen 4 bolts crack and warp and break caps......

 

[Driver4r]

Dumb question, but when you guys say blue/black are you reffering to the time period or what? Cause if your talking about the paint color, that could have easily been changed.

 

[HotRodPC]

Dumb question, but when you guys say blue/black are you reffering to the time period or what? Cause if your talking about the paint color, that could have easily been changed.

Nahh man, if you're ever painted a block blue or black, then then you can't bore it .060. Jus kiddin, Jus kiddin. What it boils down is the time period like you suggest. All GM blocks went GM blue, and then later went GM Black. Back in the day when Olds was Gold, Buick was Red, Chevy was Orange etc,. Point is, the older blocks will tolerate being bored .060, some even more like the 283 and 327.

 

[HotRodPC]

(I've never had a problem taking a 3970010 cast block to .060.)

those are the only blocks i use.. and if i remember right they come in 2 and 4 bolt mains,, 4 bolt i know for sure,, id have to go out and check some 2 bolts i have to be sure,, but i wont use a blue or black block.. if it runs? fix it and trade it for someones junk there going to scrap......

I should clarify? i wont build a motor with a blue or black block,, if its just for a pass or light go getter? then it will work ok.. but im talking about really BUILDING a motor,, 300hp and up.....

the 2 bolt main early blocks are stronger than the 4 bolt ones,, more nickle in the cast and weight 20-30 lbs heavier depending on the casting #..

Ive run MANY MANY MANY 2 bolt blocks and they will hold up and last longer,, while ive seen 4 bolts crack and warp and break caps......

Yep, the 3970010 blocks are the most common old school 327/350 blocks and they do come in both 2 and 4 bolt blocks. Now I've never had any big issues with the 4 bolts either, but there was a time I had a 3970010 that I got out of a truck and expected it to be a 4 bolt. Pulled it apart, it was a 2 bolt. Figured I wasn't doing but about 6,000 rpm in it, so I went with it and built it .030, balanced it, shot peened the rods, cross drilled and chamfered the crank and all my normal "do it right" procedures with flat top forged pistons. Later on decided I wanted some more power, so I did a cam swap and power band to 7000 rpm and would rap it off idle to 7500 rpm. Never had a problem with the 2 bolt and cast crank. I really expected it to blow it to pieces in short order. Never happened. I did end up moving that cam to a buddies stroker motor, and put the original 6,000 rpm cam back in it about a year later. Daily Driven for over 5 years and sold the truck with that same motor in it running just fine and had NOOOOOOOOOOOOO problem getting on the freeway. Built right, 2 bolts and cast cranks will hold up.

 

[chengny]

I'm 6 for 5 using the following as a 4 bolt indicator. I forget where I heard it but it seems to have legs:

"On the front of the block - right behind water pump on pass side. Look and see if you can see a tiny 1/4 pipe plug. If you see one its a 4 bolt. If not its a 2."

I say 6 for 5 because the most recent 350 I bought did not have the plug as mentioned above and was sold to me as a 2 bolt.

But, lo and behold, when I turned it over and lifted the pan I was looking at a factory 4 bolt (i.e not splayed).

I really don't get that concerned over the 2/4 bolt issue anyway. I drive like an old lady.

The second one down is the bonus engine.

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[HotRodPC]

I'm 6 for 5 using this as a 4 bolt indicator. I forget where I heard it but it seems to have legs:

"On the front of the block - right behind water pump on pass side. Look and see if you can see a tiny 1/4 pipe plug. If you see one its a 4 bolt. If not its a 2."

I say 6 for 5 because the most recent 350 I bought did not have the plug as mentioned above and was sold to me as a 2 bolt.

But, lo and behold, when I turned it over and lifted the pan I was looking at a factory 4 bolt (i.e not splayed).

I really don't get that concerned over the 2/4 bolt issue anyway. I drive like an old lady.

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Ohhhh, now that makes perfect sense. I always wondered why some had it, some didn't. I like that ones do. It's an oil pressure port right??? IIRC, I've used for an oil pressure gauge when I used the one in back for the idiot light switch.

 

[Driver4r]

Nahh man, if you're ever painted a block blue or black, then then you can't bore it .060. Jus kiddin, Jus kiddin. What it boils down is the time period like you suggest. All GM blocks went GM blue, and then later went GM Black. Back in the day when Olds was Gold, Buick was Red, Chevy was Orange etc,. Point is, the older blocks will tolerate being bored .060, some even more like the 283 and 327.

I have a 350 setting in a 79 c10 that i was looking to build up. Didnt these trucks come factory painted blue(73-80). So are you saying that it probly isnt the best block to go .030 over?.

 

[Tyger13us]

Yep, the 3970010 blocks are the most common old school 327/350 blocks and they do come in both 2 and 4 bolt blocks. Now I've never had any big issues with the 4 bolts either, but there was a time I had a 3970010 that I got out of a truck and expected it to be a 4 bolt. Pulled it apart, it was a 2 bolt. Figured I wasn't doing but about 6,000 rpm in it, so I went with it and built it .030, balanced it, shot peened the rods, cross drilled and chamfered the crank and all my normal "do it right" procedures with flat top forged pistons. Later on decided I wanted some more power, so I did a cam swap and power band to 7000 rpm and would rap it off idle to 7500 rpm. Never had a problem with the 2 bolt and cast crank. I really expected it to blow it to pieces in short order. Never happened. I did end up moving that cam to a buddies stroker motor, and put the original 6,000 rpm cam back in it about a year later. Daily Driven for over 5 years and sold the truck with that same motor in it running just fine and had NOOOOOOOOOOOOO problem getting on the freeway. Built right, 2 bolts and cast cranks will hold up.

Lots of people dont like cast cranks? why i dont know,, i guess it not the KILLER SET UP,, but i like them and and have never broken one,, they flex a lil bit which i think its better and a steel crank dont flex and the resanents in the steel will cause them to crack and break.

ive broken many top dollar done right cranks,, but never broken a cast crank with more HP then i have ever tryed to get out of a steel crank..

2 bolt block and a cast crank will last forever and make big HP as long as ya dont run it out of oil of throw a rod,, ive bracket raced and circle tracked um too and ultra reliable,, ive had 4 bolt crack and steel cranks break....

now? if ya want more from a 2 bolt? use steel caps in the block with studs and a girdle and a 471 jimmy on it and ya still wont blow the crank out of it.....

i love old IRON!! there like a timex,, they take a likin and keep on ticken...

ive gotten over 300k out of a used to be circle track motor i had and put it to street,,street raced the snott out of it,, till one day a rod nut come loose from stretching a rod bolt,, good night poor ole motor........it was just starting to smoke a lil...

 

[Tyger13us]

I have a 350 setting in a 79 c10 that i was looking to build up. Didnt these trucks come factory painted blue(73-80). So are you saying that it probly isnt the best block to go .030 over?.

it would be ok to go that big,, but i wouldnt go over that.. after 75 GM started to get cheap with there blocks and tryed to reduce weight.......

99% of the good blocks are 74 and down........

but id have the block sonic tested before putting any money into it than to find out later it was a lil to thin in some important place and id also have the block magna fluxed too to find hidden cracks...

find a shop that can and will do this,, it wont cost much,, if its an out of site price look around...

my machinist includes it in the cost of the machine work and is only about and extra 100 bucks.........

if your machinist dont do those thing? find one that does,, i would never take one of my motor to a shop that didnt........

 

[Tyger13us]

ive got old 2 and 4 bolt block that both have that oil pressure tap,, older blocks have them.........and most? newer block dont,, so ya cant tell by the oil tap what it is till ya flip it over and check..

 

[Tyger13us]

Yep, the 3970010 blocks are the most common old school 327/350 blocks and they do come in both 2 and 4 bolt blocks. Now I've never had any big issues with the 4 bolts either, but there was a time I had a 3970010 that I got out of a truck and expected it to be a 4 bolt. Pulled it apart, it was a 2 bolt. Figured I wasn't doing but about 6,000 rpm in it, so I went with it and built it .030, balanced it, shot peened the rods, cross drilled and chamfered the crank and all my normal "do it right" procedures with flat top forged pistons. Later on decided I wanted some more power, so I did a cam swap and power band to 7000 rpm and would rap it off idle to 7500 rpm. Never had a problem with the 2 bolt and cast crank. I really expected it to blow it to pieces in short order. Never happened. I did end up moving that cam to a buddies stroker motor, and put the original 6,000 rpm cam back in it about a year later. Daily Driven for over 5 years and sold the truck with that same motor in it running just fine and had NOOOOOOOOOOOOO problem getting on the freeway. Built right, 2 bolts and cast cranks will hold up.

I have to add this..

Newer blocks where the water pump bolts to it have lil square pad on the block on the left side looking at it, ya can see it in the pic.. where the head meets the block......

the older blocks the pad is twice as wide where the block stamp is located if ya find one of these old blocks snag it,, its the old thick good GM block...

 

[Tyger13us]

Nahh man, if you're ever painted a block blue or black, then then you can't bore it .060. Jus kiddin, Jus kiddin. What it boils down is the time period like you suggest. All GM blocks went GM blue, and then later went GM Black. Back in the day when Olds was Gold, Buick was Red, Chevy was Orange etc,. Point is, the older blocks will tolerate being bored .060, some even more like the 283 and 327.

If my memory serves me right? Olds were red,up to the 425, then teal blue for the 455,, then went gold i think for the 350 and i dont know after that and i dont remember there year changes,, but the olds dudes I knew could find what they want just by looking for a yard motor by color,, now this was in the old daze mind you........

 

[Tyger13us]

i forgot,, the old aluminum v8 olds motors were silver......

 

[HotRodPC]

If my memory serves me right? Olds were red,up to the 425, then teal blue for the 455,, then went gold i think for the 350 and i dont know after that and i dont remember there year changes,, but the olds dudes I knew could find what they want just by looking for a yard motor by color,, now this was in the old daze mind you........

Actaully the Olds was done by year model. Pretty sure the first year of the 455 was still red, then went to gold. The Teal funky Blue 455 in the early years was the Toronado motor with the big valve heads and the low profile intake. Then the later years, all the Olds motors went to the metallic Blue which was a pretty cool color, then when GM motors all went uniform color....

 

[Driver4r]

My dads 455 alky motor is teal. But finding a cheap set of heads for that thing is a PAIN IN THE ASS. The dome pistons in it are HO heads only.