Finally got a running 65 C10

[DoubleDingo]

You know, when I’m just driving this thing 12 miles to the gym at 65 miles an hour, I feel like it doesn’t leak this much oil. I really think those 70 and 75 mile an hour Speeds are pushing this thing. I’m going to dry it all off and drive it 65 for a week and see what happens. The RPMs are just so freaking high. The truck will do 75 at 3500 RPM and it seems to not mind it at all, but that 40 psi pumping through that damn valve cover baffle needs to stop.

And I’m going to see if I can find that PCV valve today for the Corvette

I still think it's in need of a proper pcv setup. That breather isn't cutting it.

Back when I had the 283 in my original 65 c20, I had to turn 4k to keep up with traffic. 283/sm420/4.57 It did not leak oil or burn oil. But is was an all stock engine, no aftermarket parts on it. It did have a breather cap on the oil fill tube, and yes, the after a few months the alternator and some of the driver's side engine bay had a film of gunk from the breather exhausting oil fumes/droplets, just no other leaks.

 

[1low4x4]

Yeah gonna get that corvette pcv and get the breather changed to a tube to the carb

Bought a long list of crap I’ve been wanting to fix. Also ordered new windshield wiper arms and blades, and a NOS Chevy steering wheel cap. This should make a lot of stuff functional again.

I was thinking about it, I’m probably not going to spend the $250 on a performer intake for this engine, since I’m probably not going to run it forever. I’ll just fix the leak and be done with it.

As far as I can tell, I am $4170.87 into this truck since I bought it. Which is insane, because there really hasn’t been any huge changes. Just goes to show you what restoring/rebuilding a classic vehicle takes. Seems like I’ve done it a dozen times now, but this is the first one I’ve had that’s going to need everything. Square bodies spoil you, they already have a lot of modern amenities.

 

[bucket]

Honestly, I never had those leak when left without a bolt, and I lived where we'd be going up and down steep slopes and high revs. When I got older I did install a short bolt and flat washer even though it wasn't needed.

I'd guess it has to do with how close the tolerances are between the block and the push rod. Some blocks may have more room for oil to run past.

 

[DoubleDingo]

Yeah gonna get that corvette pcv and get the breather changed to a tube to the carb

Bought a long list of crap I’ve been wanting to fix. Also ordered new windshield wiper arms and blades, and a NOS Chevy steering wheel cap. This should make a lot of stuff functional again.

I was thinking about it, I’m probably not going to spend the $250 on a performer intake for this engine, since I’m probably not going to run it forever. I’ll just fix the leak and be done with it.

As far as I can tell, I am $4170.87 into this truck since I bought it. Which is insane, because there really hasn’t been any huge changes. Just goes to show you what restoring/rebuilding a classic vehicle takes. Seems like I’ve done it a dozen times now, but this is the first one I’ve had that’s going to need everything. Square bodies spoil you, they already have a lot of modern amenities.

Don't look at what has been spent, just enjoy it.

 

[DoubleDingo]

I'd guess it has to do with how close the tolerances are between the block and the push rod. Some blocks may have more room for oil to run past.

Crazy thing, I never knew there was a direct opening to the inside of the block from the top hole. If I recall correctly, the bottom one is fine. In my '56 it had the front post mounts, so they had bolts. When I took that engine out of the 56 to install into the 65 c20, it was just transfer mounts from engine to engine. All of the seasoned mechanics that were helping me never mentioned those needed a bolt, so I was ignorant to the fact there was the open hole to inside of the engine until I was in my late 20s. For whatever reason I was eye level with those holes and saw something shiny, and realized that was the rod for the fuel pump. I was more concerned about dust and dirt getting in there, not an oil leak, because there never any oil leaking from there. To keep debris from inside the engine, bolts were installed.

 

[bucket]

Crazy thing, I never knew there was a direct opening to the inside of the block from the top hole. If I recall correctly, the bottom one is fine. In my '56 it had the front post mounts, so they had bolts. When I took that engine out of the 56 to install into the 65 c20, it was just transfer mounts from engine to engine. All of the seasoned mechanics that were helping me never mentioned those needed a bolt, so I was ignorant to the fact there was the open hole to inside of the engine until I was in my late 20s. For whatever reason I was eye level with those holes and saw something shiny, and realized that was the rod for the fuel pump. I was more concerned about dust and dirt getting in there, not an oil leak, because there never any oil leaking from there. To keep debris from inside the engine, bolts were installed.

I get it. I also have personally witnessed them not leaking with the open bolt hole. On more than a few occasions. But the stock 305 in my '84 definitely leaked from that open bolt hole.

 

[1low4x4]

Don't look at what has been spent, just enjoy it.

Don’t get me wrong. I’m not sweating the money. I love spending money. Just surprised when I add things up.

 

[1low4x4]

I was excited to try out my new windshield wiper arms and blades that came in tonight. Been raining a lot lately.

Maybe next time

 

[1low4x4]

Lemme ask yall this.....if a man was to keep a manual transmission in his rig, it would have to meet two requirements.

1. It HAS to shift faster (or at least have a 1st and 2nd gear thats not useless) than the 3 speed thats in it....I dont know anything about manuals but I always hear "oh it had a 4 speed in it blah blah it was a fun car"

2. It has to have some sort of RPM lowering effect in 4th, 5th.....

I like the idea of keeping manual (floor shift or just not column) but I need to it to be snappy and more economical....

Is this possible with a manual?

 

[DoubleDingo]

It all comes down to gearing. Both transmission and axle. Your axle is probably 3.73, a great gear, not great with the high 1st gear of the 3 speed. May be 4.10/4.11. Sm420 would be great, would jump off the line, but no od. 3.54/3.55 gearing with an sm420 is awesome.

Schoolmate had a 65 stepside with a good engine, sm420, and he raced Porsches, Mustangs, Camaros, etc and won.

Old technology is not bad. New is not exactly better. It comes down to research, crunching numbers, and figuring out exactly what you want from the vehicle.

If you have the shop manuals for it, those alone tell you all of the gearing options they came with.

 

[DoubleDingo]

Crusty Biscuit has 3 speed with 30% overdrive with 4.57 gears. Even with 4.57 the first gear is not desirable. Tolerable though. The 3.19(4.57x0.70=3.19) final drive is great numerically, but with a 3/4 ton truck, overdrive isn't great. Sm420 and 3.54 is where it's at, I mentioned that right after you started this thread.

 

[bluex]

I put a late 90s S10 NV3500 in mine. I have been really happy with it. The S10 version has better 1-2 ratios than a full size one an uses the th350/700r4 size output. They have a .73 5th. They have a bad rep but can live behind a mild small block as long as you avoid dumping the clutch lol. If you look fit one get the newest one you can as the design was constantly improved over the years.

 

[bucket]

It all comes down to gearing. Both transmission and axle. Your axle is probably 3.73, a great gear, not great with the high 1st gear of the 3 speed. May be 4.10/4.11. Sm420 would be great, would jump off the line, but no od. 3.54/3.55 gearing with an sm420 is awesome.

Schoolmate had a 65 stepside with a good engine, sm420, and he raced Porsches, Mustangs, Camaros, etc and won.

Old technology is not bad. New is not exactly better. It comes down to research, crunching numbers, and figuring out exactly what you want from the vehicle.

If you have the shop manuals for it, those alone tell you all of the gearing options they came with.

I'll just come out and say it... I don't think there's a snowball's chance in hell that Nick would at all be happy with a 420, a 465, or even an nv4500 for that matter.

 

[1low4x4]

Automatic it is

 

[DoubleDingo]

I'll just come out and say it... I don't think there's a snowball's chance in hell that Nick would at all be happy with a 420, a 465, or even an nv4500 for that matter.

You're probably right, he's very picky selective.

My main point is gear ratios, the sm420 1st and 2nd and 3rd with 3.54 rear gears is an extremely fun setup, and the truck will cruise as fast as you want to go in 4th. And will get decent mileage. And and yes, it can be shifted fairly quickly.

So, gear ratios, not just final, but 1st and everything in between need to be factored in. For an sm420, 1st is granny, so 2nd is the take-off gear 99.99999$ of the time. His tire diameter only helps, they look like a 28 or 29 diameter.