11 inch drums fix or Disk brake conversion?

[rydog]

Hey I've been working on my rear brakes. I have the 11 inch drums on a semi float 14 bolt rear end.

I'm noticing the 11 inch drums are 150 bucks to replace.

One of my drums is straight up missing a chunk of brake surface the other one has a good groove on the outer edge.

The one missing the chunk looks pretty good other than the chunk missing. I probably shouldn't run that though huh?

If I have to replace both drums it seems like for 150 or so more bucks I can a disk brake conversion kit from lugnut4x4.

What would you do?

 

[rydog]

Here is what it looks like

 

[rydog]

Another thing I noticed while doing this is it seems like one of the axel shafts has something going on the driver's side feels good the other side has a lot of play in it and makes some not so good noises before moving it. I'm guessing this is the clunk I usually feel when putting it in drive?

 

[fast 99]

Stock GM brakes are plenty adequate. Yes the rotor needs to be replaced.

Usually cheapest place for parts is Rock auto if you have time.

 

[rydog]

Whoa yeah they are way way cheaper. I'll wait thanks

 

[rydog]

Would you replace both at the same time? The other one only has a slight ridge I don't think I could get it to show up in a picture. I can feel it with my finger nail.

 

[Strick]

Another thing I noticed while doing this is it seems like one of the axel shafts has something going on the driver's side feels good the other side has a lot of play in it and makes some not so good noises before moving it. I'm guessing this is the clunk I usually feel when putting it in drive?

@SquareRoot is gonna get you for misspelling "AXLE".

HS

 

[ali_c20]

I replace brake parts always on both sides. Don't want to work on the brakes again cause the other side failed 2 months later. Clean and inspect all parts and replace everything that needs replacement. Get new brake shoes too.

 

[rydog]

Yeah I'll order both drums and shoes. I'll order the hardware kit too they are cheap but if the stock hardware seems fine should I reuse that? Is it better quality?

I removed the axles today and they look just fine to me. Does that mean the clunking I feel when placing it in drive is something in the ring gear? The driveshaft feels fine to me. The guy I got the truck from said it's made that clunk since 1987. Reading online it's seems like it's probably the spider gears?

I noticed they sell repair bearings. I would only need those if I felt a big ridge on the axle where the bearing rides right?

 

[ali_c20]

Yeah I'll order both drums and shoes. I'll order the hardware kit too they are cheap but if the stock hardware seems fine should I reuse that? Is it better quality?

I removed the axles today and they look just fine to me. Does that mean the clunking I feel when placing it in drive is something in the ring gear? The driveshaft feels fine to me. The guy I got the truck from said it's made that clunk since 1987. Reading online it's seems like it's probably the spider gears?

I noticed they sell repair bearings. I would only need those if I felt a big ridge on the axle where the bearing rides right?

You can reuse the old hardware if it's good. Old hardware is surely better quality than new China hardware.

Clunking when put in gear is normally related to the differential not the axle bearings. Worn axle bearings start to whine and get hot.

When you are in there you can remove the bearings, check them and replace the wheel seals.
Repair bearings are only needed when the axle is grooved where the bearing rides on.

When you decide to replace the bearings get quality bearings made in the US, Japan or Europe.

 

[Grit dog]

I’d do wheel cylinders too if they look crusty or original.
Full rebuild on a set of 3/4ton truck drums and you shouldn’t have to look at them again for 20 years or 100k miles unless you drive it in the rust belt in the winter.

 

[rydog]

I’d do wheel cylinders too if they look crusty or original.
Full rebuild on a set of 3/4ton truck drums and you shouldn’t have to look at them again for 20 years or 100k miles unless you drive it in the rust belt in the winter.

Ohh yeah replacing the wheel cylinders and rear rubber line is what started all of this.

 

[rydog]

You can reuse the old hardware if it's good. Old hardware is surely better quality than new China hardware.

Clunking when put in gear is normally related to the differential not the axle bearings. Worn axle bearings start to whine and get hot.

When you are in there you can remove the bearings, check them and replace the wheel seals.
Repair bearings are only needed when the axle is grooved where the bearing rides on.

When you decide to replace the bearings get quality bearings made in the US, Japan or Europe.

I'm just confused about what in the differential would be causing it. The splines on the axel seem fine and the gears in the differential they go into look fine.

When I removed the bolt locking the pin so I could get to the C clips the pin just fell out and hit me the head. Shouldn't I have to drive it out?

I plan on buying the sfk bearings from rock auto. 47 bucks each compares to Napa's 100 dollars each.

 

[Bennyt]

For heavy items like drums/ rotors, I usually order from Summit to save on shipping. They are a few dollars more but usually it's less than the RA shipping.

 

[Old Guy Bill]

I used the LMC drums they work just fine