I think I figured out my brake problem

[Chris64]

My brakes have never been great. I didn't expect it to be like a new truck but you really need to push to stop. It IS barely possible to make the tires skid if you push hard enough, but it's not easy. I was wondering if it was a vacuum problem and I can't say I've tested the vacuum between the carb and the booster because everything is threaded, but I'm pretty sure I have a good vacuum. If I unplug a vacuum line the engine runs completely different.

Anyway, when I was last in there running new brake lines and bleeding I still hadn't ever actually driven the truck and the discs were covered in rust. I was optimistic that it would all sand off once I started driving around a little (that's what my trailer does).

Here they are. My daughter says they look like Damascus brakes. I was thinking a little more like that hammertone finish.

So am I right to just buy new rotors at this point? Any recommendations? I was probably going to try and find AC Delco everything.

Also, ignore the missing bolts on the steering linkage. I'm trying to center the steering wheel.

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[Chevy 88]

............

 

[CountKrunk]

Is it heavily pitted? It looks like it. I would change that ASAP

 

[Grit dog]

Ya those look pitted. Impressive. To be fair, they also look like new and could probably be turned. But I wouldn’t expect great performance out of old brake pads only catching 50-60% of the rotor surface.

 

[Chris64]

Is it heavily pitted? It looks like it. I would change that ASAP

Yup - and that's my plan. I guess my question was really: is it stupid to just replace them versus getting them resurfaced. And also is there a better brand or just stick with OEM? I always lean towards replace and OEM but it never hurts to ask people who might know more.

 

[CalSgt]

Is the groove in the rotor supposed to be there?

 

[fast 99]

grove is factory. Being captured rotors, given the time involved replace. Even if they are within spec and have enough material to machine, the end product will have less mass to absorb and dissipate heat.

 

[Grit dog]

Yup - and that's my plan. I guess my question was really: is it stupid to just replace them versus getting them resurfaced. And also is there a better brand or just stick with OEM? I always lean towards replace and OEM but it never hurts to ask people who might know more.

Time and money and intended use. Use that to guide every decision, especially as you’ve mentioned budget and this resto.
I’m cheap so if they were new and the pitting wasn’t too deep I’d consider turning them. Especially if they are or appear to be low mileage and quality /oe / made in USA. Iirc you drug this out of a barn. What are the chances it’s got cheap Chinesuim rotors vs quality from back in the day.

 

[Chris64]

I had a couple weeks of travelling and I thought I had all the parts to tackle this project finally, so today was the day!

Side quest: My side-yard work space (nice and level) is currently covered in dirt for a yard project I'm working on, so I tried tackling this on my driveway.

Still on side-quest: This is the full-time 4x4 NP203. This seems like such a potential safety hazard. If it's in park and you lift any single wheel, the car will just roll. I've considered putting it in High-lock but not sure if that's a good idea.

After putting on my parking brake and sticking some blocks behind my rear wheels I just can't get it out of my head that the parking brake could just fail and hurt someone (probably me)...so I'm going to do more homework and finish clearing the dirt so I can do this on a nice flat surface.

Back to actual truck work; I removed everything down to that one GM 2 3/8 socket and behind it looks like another threaded do-hickey with a bunch of small holes in it.

This picture isn't really clear on what it is, I'm referring to #65. Also am I going to need another special socket for #64?

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edit: - I found a video - I guess it's something I can just pull out of there with enough force - it wasn't budging for me but I tend to not force things if I'm not sure how they come out.

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[Chris64]

OK, after a LOT of interruptions, I'm back on this project. I have one hub all cleaned out with bearings removed and ready to put everything back together. Seating the bearing races is proving to be a challenge. I tried a couple custom ideas with threaded rod and that didn't work. I'll probably go pick up the race driver tool set from Harbor Freight tomorrow but I'd welcome any suggestions on this. I lubed them lightly with bearing grease. Should I put them in the freezer?

 

[legopnuematic]

Get a bearing race driver set. Well worth the money.

 

[Ricko1966]

Freezer works good, so does using your old bearing cones as drivers for new races,especially if you have access to put all thread through both cones.I've got a pic somewhere I'll find it, BRB. Not a square but same idea. 2 sockets,a chunk of all thread,2 washers 2 nuts,2 wrenches to turn the nuts. Im pulling in front hub rotor and bearings in a front wheel drive Ford Festiva there. I warm the housing with a propane torch and freeze the bearings,they go together like butter.

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[idahovette]

Freezer works good, so does using your old bearing cones as drivers for new races,especially if you have access to put all thread through both cones.I've got a pic somewhere I'll find it, BRB. Not a square but same idea. 2 sockets,a chunk of all thread,2 washers 2 nuts,2 wrenches to turn the nuts. Im pulling in front hub rotor and bearings in a front wheel drive Ford Festiva there. I warm the housing with a propane torch and freeze the bearings,they go together like butter.

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That's my best installing tool right there, in the lower right corner of the picture.

 

[Ricko1966]

That's my best installing tool right there, in the lower right corner of the picture.

In most cases I just use the old cones,or a socket and hammer,you can hear and feel with the races seat. But, front wheel drive captured rotor,trying to get the bearing,hub,rotor and everything,lined up and held in place while swinging a hammer without damaging the hubcentric ring wasn't an option,and I didn't feel like pulling knuckle to use the press.

 

[idahovette]

Right..... BFH, old cone, and a thicker piece of plate, or the right socket, works great on these squares and most any old style open RWD bearing unit.