Pressure Brake Bleeding Question

[Hunter79764]

Not exactly an answer to the question, but a tip I picked up from an old guy on another board. When changing disc brake pads, install a line and crack the bleeder at the caliper, then compress the pistons. You will flush the old brake fluid and do a decent job of getting any air out, then just keep the master full when you pump up the brakes again once the new pads are on. Doing that basically any time you take the calipers off means you have decent fluid in there regularly.

I'm also glad to hear I'm not the only one who has issues with the hand vac pump bleeding method. I've been keeping an eye out for a pressure bleeder, but might look at the reverse bleed setup. And I wondered about teflon on the threads, so good to see that addressed too.

 

[idahovette]

I have a vacuum bleeder and it's great ....many other uses. I do the same as @Hunter79764 push the old fluid out, but I take it one step further. I vacuum out the master and put new fluid in and most of the time you get rid of all the old stuff except what's in the lines. Then open the lines and gravity the rest of the old fluid out??

 

[human747]

Last year I did my '78 K20 with stainless, and "the procedure" was horrible. And I have bled plenty of brakes over the years. Then a friend lent me his pressure bleeder - my experience was just like "Lego"s, except this one looked like it was from the 50s. It probably was older than my truck - a nice rusty steel jug, etc.. Dumped in an extra quart of fluid, attach compressed air and put a few203040 psi in it, I bled its line to ensure cleanliness, clamped plate to the master, and I was finished as fast as I could crawl/roll around to the slaves and open and close their bleeders. Rock solid pedal was impressive.

The ones that look like garden sprayers ought to work great, too. It's such a nice simple system, almost all downhill, no ABS to complicate things, etc.