What of brand of engine oil and oil filter do you use?

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greencountry05

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Walley world is screwed placed full morons anyways. I heard they hire people that have attempt of murder on there criminal record to work there.

You are probably right on with that. But I trust this guy, went to High school and College with him, was my room mate for two years, and is very churchy. Very respectable car guy...he just happens to work there because they work with his class schedule. But YES, most people at Wal-mart Tire & Lube are completely ******* worthless!!!
 

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used to use penzoil, switched to gtx, but now it's way up there so this oil change used supertech wal-mart stuff. usually fram filter or super tech.

next time you do a oil chance cut that fram apart and see whats inside i did and i wont use them agian i switched to k and n and i use castrol full
 

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Amsoil or Wix(NAPA Gold)
 

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'76 GMC- Amsoil and a Wix filter
'01 Sierra- Amsoil and wix filter
Wifes '94 Silverado- Castrol GTX and Ac Delco filter( will be Amsoil and Wix next time around)
 

HotRodPC

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Am I the only one that uses a Motorcraft filter on my truck? Depends on the truck, but the 454, I do use a Motorcraft filter which is the Purolater Pure One without the $8 price tag, and is about $3-$4 instead, and I use Valvoline Conventional and change every 4500-5000 miles, and the others I use Full Synthetic and a Mobil 1 filter and change every 10,000 or once a year. I rarely drive the box van 10K a year, so it gets changed every spring.
 

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I use Valvoline and whatever filter I feel like. I've used Bosch, STP, Mobil, K&N, Fram, SuperTech, whatever.
 

usmdude

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Here I cut a few filters open.

I cut these open a while back, just to compare the filters. Its quite surprising. I tend to cut every oil filter I pull off. Just to check for heavy metal deposits. I need to add the new NAPA Wix filters that came out a few months back. I've cut them open, just haven't got around to getting them online.

http://wiki.hurstolds.org/Oil_Filter.htm

Jbo
 

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Dont have a certain brand. Usually whatever is cheap. BUT used to be Valvoline high mileage with a delco filter on my Chevys. No matter the mileage I used high mileage.



Rotella synthetic 5w30 on my old R6.
 

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i usually use redline 10w-30 synthetic and wix 51069 filter for the small block.

Is a zddp adequate oil (synthetic) really necessary for a flat lifter engine? i don't know, but i consider this to be cheap insurance because it's not that much more than conventional oil and i don't change until 10,000 miles or so.

A fully synthetic oil change will be about $53 (just the oil, not the filter because that makes no difference here) and a conventional oil change will be about $20. So, about $33 dollars. Cheap insurance to me. Plus, with conventional you would have to change more often, so it's probably a wash anyways.

To confuse the issue further, Pat Goss says it's NOT necessary for flat lifter engines if they're broken in. I'll stick with my cheap insurance.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xILCJc2o_L8
 

HotRodPC

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i usually use redline 10w-30 synthetic and wix 51069 filter for the small block.

Is a zddp adequate oil (synthetic) really necessary for a flat lifter engine? i don't know, but i consider this to be cheap insurance because it's not that much more than conventional oil and i don't change until 10,000 miles or so.

A fully synthetic oil change will be about $53 (just the oil, not the filter because that makes no difference here) and a conventional oil change will be about $20. So, about $33 dollars. Cheap insurance to me. Plus, with conventional you would have to change more often, so it's probably a wash anyways.

To confuse the issue further, Pat Goss says it's necessary for flat lifter engines if they're broken in. I'll stick with my cheap insurance.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xILCJc2o_L8

Welcome to GMSB. This is why you should use a cam break in additive for the first oil in a new flat tappet motor. After that, you're good to go.

Glad to see someone else isn't scared to go 10,000 miles between oil changes. If I use FULL synthetic and a GOOD filter, I have no problem going 10,000. Conventional oil and a farily good filter, like a Purolater Pure One, I'll go 5,000 and maybe even closer to 6,000 depending on weather or travel plans in the near future. So long as my motors stay clean and in good shape as far a rings and not getting alot of dilution in the oil, I'll run oil longer.

Oil NEVER wears out. It gets diluted. That's why we must change it. Good Oil, Good Filter, Clean motor, all means less contaminents and less diluted oil so I can't see wasting the money and our resources changing it when not needed.
 

fussfeld

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But i'll stick with my synthetic for now.
 

HotRodPC

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I went ahead fixed your post to say NOT....

But do keep in mind, even if using synthetic you still need the zinc for cam break in on flat tappets.

And If a new engine, I'd NEVER use synthetic for break in. Rings need to scrub the cylinder walls to seat. When I did motors way back when, I used Non Detergent SAE 30 for break in and the first 1000 miles. Change it then go with standard 10-40 or 20-50 for race motors. Even new motors today, I wouldn't consider using synthetic for the first 5000 miles just to make sure all the rings and seated and found a nice home. Then by all means, I'd go FULL synthetic. I do not use Blended Para Synthetic. All the manufacture has to do is put a tablespoon of synthetic in a quart of conventional, now it's blended oil. NOPE. I either do Conventional or FULL Synthetic.
 

RetroC10Sport

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I've been called a ******* because a guy using Fram filters had a knocking engine and thought Fram was the best out there. I used a Fram on my 1992 Olds 3.1 once and it started knocking...I will NOT use Fram again. It wasn't the first time I've heard about their cardboard filters doing damage.
 

HotRodPC

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I've been called a ******* because a guy using Fram filters had a knocking engine and thought Fram was the best out there. I used a Fram on my 1992 Olds 3.1 once and it started knocking...I will NOT use Fram again. It wasn't the first time I've heard about their cardboard filters doing damage.

Yeah, if they collapse and clog, then you're not getting the oil volume you should be getting. And there is a difference in oil pressure and volume, so it's possible a gauge or light may not go off to warn you that there is an oiling problem.
 

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