What have you done to your square lately??

[Grit dog]

Pretty unreal! 2 beauty Orange and white round eyes on the same page!

 

[Travlr]

Thanks for that. Taking a rig out for the inaugural run after a body-off is always stressful, lots to be on top of. I find I manage it much better when I'm by myself, keeps my focus inline. This was the first big block I built from scratch, and the first hydroboost I've installed and honestly the first 4x4 I've put together. That, and the trans and transfer were transplants with 0 familiarity, only the fluid to gauge condition. Both are without issue......so far. The Dana 60 front was also a first, and started out as a dually front, which was a pretty expensive piece to go through, even though I essentially got the core for nothing. Biggest issue I have so far is I assumed my rear out of the C20 was a 4.10 ratio, and felt great getting the 4.10 geared D60. Turns out that rear is a 3.73, so after going through the front, I now have a choice to make, change gearing in the front, or the rear. That decision will be made after I get it on the highway and make an informed decision. An overdrive isn't in the cards at this point.

3.73 would be my choice... unless you are hauling over 10K pounds as standard practice, rock crawling, or competing in the 1/4 mile.

 

[1976dully]

FINALLY got the '73 out for a test drive. Pulled it out of the garage for the first time under it's own power in 10 years, then crawled underneath to check leaks, loose stuff, whatever......and as blind as I am, I noticed the c-clp at the base of the sector shaft on the steering box was dislodged. WTF!! I rebuilt it with an Edelmann kit a few months ago. Removed the pitman, pushed the seal back, and re-installed the clip, but it just didn't feel tight enough. Dug the C20 box out, removed it's original c-clip and noticed it was at least 1/16" bigger in diameter and the spring steel just felt better. Used that in the K20 box and we're back in business. Ran around the block, breaks work well, hydroboost functions as it should, no squealing, a bit of an exhaust leak at 1 doughnut, a huge success!!

SHARP square! My favorite color combo!

 

[Radiohead]

Someone wrote that the dipstick should come in around the pan surface and the one in my truck currently is way up in the tube when fully inserted. Tomorrow I will see if there's any length difference in the two. Part numbers do call out for different applications.

That's all I know right now.

Update
The dipstick for a t400 in a P30 is 27" long
The dipstick for a t400 in the c20 is 29" long

No help there, not surprised considering the vehicle architecture. However, upon closer examination, the cap of the c20 stick was crushed in such a fashion that
1) I hadn't noticed it. Old man eyes...
2) would have held the stick up higher than it should have nested

Hopefully fixing the cap will allow it to sit in a proper location.
I might get this sorted today, might not. Mrs Radiohead has plans in the garden for me.

 

[Radiohead]

Well, a 29" dipstick is still about 2" shorter than the pan mounting surface with the tube that's on the trans now. The tip is above the modulator can, which seems way too high. Especially when you read this from a search on this very site

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So, looking at the various parts outlets only adds to the confusion. I might see if Chad over in Battleground has any he's willing to let go of in the 31" range. Also going to triple check this aftermarket short a$$ chrome one I have laying around to see if I will even be able reach it installed.

It's a other bug day so far. Maybe a windshield one soon.
I suppose I could cut the tube down some to get the dipstick full area to match the pan mounting surface....

 

[DoubleDingo]

Update
The dipstick for a t400 in a P30 is 27" long
The dipstick for a t400 in the c20 is 29" long

No help there, not surprised considering the vehicle architecture. However, upon closer examination, the cap of the c20 stick was crushed in such a fashion that
1) I hadn't noticed it. Old man eyes...
2) would have held the stick up higher than it should have nested

Hopefully fixing the cap will allow it to sit in a proper location.
I might get this sorted today, might not. Mrs Radiohead has plans in the garden for me.

I think my c20 th400 dipstick is 34 inches. I ordered one for an 85 if I recall correctly and it's the correct length for the stock tube. I did buy a 29 inch dipstick and tube, but didn't want to have to crawl inside the engine compartment to check it. 29 put the handle lower than the valve cover, 34 is stock.

 

[Camar068]

Drove up to OH to pickup a nice set of bucket seats. Figured while I was gonna be his way, I hollered @bucket to trade other stuff. Seats look great. Hopefully it works out.

Good to see you again Andy, Thanks for the bumper.

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[78C10BigTen]

FINALLY got the '73 out for a test drive. Pulled it out of the garage for the first time under it's own power in 10 years, then crawled underneath to check leaks, loose stuff, whatever......and as blind as I am, I noticed the c-clp at the base of the sector shaft on the steering box was dislodged. WTF!! I rebuilt it with an Edelmann kit a few months ago. Removed the pitman, pushed the seal back, and re-installed the clip, but it just didn't feel tight enough. Dug the C20 box out, removed it's original c-clip and noticed it was at least 1/16" bigger in diameter and the spring steel just felt better. Used that in the K20 box and we're back in business. Ran around the block, breaks work well, hydroboost functions as it should, no squealing, a bit of an exhaust leak at 1 doughnut, a huge success!!

Thats a SEXY truck! Love the colors, wheels and it has my favorite nose!!!

 

[78C10BigTen]

Drove up to OH to pickup a nice set of bucket seats. Figured while I was gonna be his way, I hollered @bucket to trade other stuff. Seats look great. Hopefully it works out.

Good to see you again Andy, Thanks for the bumper.

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Long drive! Lol

 

[Radiohead]

I ended up scabbing up a temporary fix so I could finish the trans service today and move on to the first official test drive. I cut 4" off the tube that was in there which I'm pretty sure was something the tweakers did to make it look good. It certainly wasn't correct and the strap to bolt it to the transmission or cylinder head was completely missing and the spot covered in black tape. What a mess. But I ended up resetting the tube length so the full zone comes in at the pan flange. After filling and getting the fluid to read there, the transmission seems to be fine. The kickdown switch is off line for now, I forget why I disconnect it but something is wrong. Fix it later. The tube and dipstick will get changed out like Double Dingo talked about - this one comes out right behind the air cleaner and is a major pita.

Even with the carb being a punk, I decided to try a short test drive to see if I had any other major issues to address. Only went a couple miles because the tags are expired and dont need any of that crap right now. The weird noise from the RR is still there and quite pronounced at 40 mph, so that wheel comes off next. I suspect a brake spring/adjuster spring or something like that is rubbing, or the bearings will look like little barrels. Seals are on the way from Rock Auto in case I ruin one during the inspection. Those 13" drums are heavy, so it wouldn't surprise me if I ruined the seal coming off or back on. Just in case. Need to see what needs done back there anyway, so that's next.

One good piece of news, no combustion gas detected in the radiator but there is a foam that appears after it warms up. That's weird and will require more investigation. Coolant is probably garbage, I'm out of test strips so can't test pH. I have the hoses and coolant waiting for the green light, so it's in the queue now too.

Needs plugs, wires, carb set up correctly and vanquish that annoying exhaust leak from the cracked manifold to run nicer. At least the transmission seems to shift appropriately and the brakes work like they should. Two steps forward, one backwards is still forward progress. Even if it's taken forever and a month to get here. The project is still in the go column and not in the liquidate column.

It's a win. I'll take it.

 

[Jrgunn5150]

And the impact goes???? Brrrrrrr

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[Sad Sack]

Dusted it off and drove it.

 

[Jrgunn5150]

Made sure my mating surfaces had the same, proper, finish.

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[IPB13]

Put in the new IAC, as well as cleaned up the TBI and put in new injectors, what a difference!

After that I threw it up on stands, pulled the headliner as it was just disintegrating and crap flew around inside anytime I drove it

Then I drained the coolant, replaced the thermostat and the upper radiator hose. Need to do some cleaning before I put a new lower hose in, that will be at some point this week, along with an oil change.

 

[JamesSam]

Cranked it and let it warm up while I planned to dust the pollen off and move my wife's car. I dusted the truck and as soon as I got in my wife's car the thundering idle stopped suddenly like I turned the ignition off, but I didn't. I ran to the cab and the check engine light was on. Immediately I wanted to start digging in, but I had kids to shuffle around, so I shelved the truck for the time being.
I was going to pick my son up from school with the truck but I drove the good ole SeeAreVee, and shuffled around kids with that ride.
As soon as my daughter was at swim practice, and wife and son left for a very late baseball game, I started looking into it. No codes when ports A and B were jumped, so I cranked it up. Crazy weird quick ignition, but it idle and no check engine light, so I let it warm up and looked under the air filter to make sure all components visible were in place and they were. The truck didn't cut out, so I took it for a ride and it drove great but literally 1 minute from the house on the trip the check engine light came on, but still drove fine.
I pulled in the driveway, cut it off and jumped ports A and B: Uggh, Code 42... I took the paper clip jumper out and cranked it up again. It fired up and no check engine light. I turned it off and am resting on it.

Currently in research mode.
Hoping I can just replace the ignition coil and lube the new one up really well, but we will see if the coil is bad or not first. My first thoughts were that since my MAP sensor connector plug is zipp tied in as the clip broke off, that could be it, but the code 42 has me second guessing that. I will probably get a new MAP sensor connector pig tail along with a new coil, if and when...