What have you done to your square lately??

[JamesSam]

Pics of engine bay?

Pics of engine bay?

After several Tub O Towels:

You must be registered for see images attach

After Silk Shine on the plastic, hoses, bumpers, etc:

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

Then I gave it a bath to drive it to my son's baseball game.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[CoggedBelt75]

^^^^^
Gathering up some of the wires on the firewall & putting them in looms would clean it up pretty good, IMO.

 

[Radiohead]

Today is transmission service day. Never done a t400 that I can remember, but memory isn't what it used to be either. Regardless, I was surprised how little fluid was in residence in the pan when it came down. That would explain it falling out of gear putting around in the carport area. I say that because I don't exactly trust the dipstick in it yet. (Did I mention I bought it from a tweaker house? Makes for some interesting "discoveries" to say the least)

Anyway, with the clock showing 68k I expected a lot more clutch material than I found and someone has been in here at some point (explains the decent fluid quality) but I found an anomaly that does concern me. The bolt that holds the filter up seemed very loose, as in backed out. But it took a little torque to get it to let go. This is what I saw once it all came out.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

That's a lot of length discrepancy between the bolt and the spacer tube. Also note in the first picture, how the end of the shank on the bolt is wallowed over a little and how the tube end looks smooshed up a bit. So I took a file and carefully took the burr edge off the bolt shank so I could put some washers in to take up the slack. Which led me to this.

You must be registered for see images attach

A little hard to see with phone cameras, but there is between a 16th and a 32nd gap between the washer stack and end of bolt shank.

My question to the braintrust is this; is the filter supposed to rattle around on its bolt or (like I suspect) be firmly mounted to the valve body? I'm going with firm, but I could be wrong. I need to get the pan back up so dirt and assorted schmutz doesn't get all up in there and add to my woes. Then I will come back and use the search function to look for an answer. I won't fill it until I find the answer in case I need to pull a washer back off to allow it to wobble around. But it makes no sense to me that it should vibrate around, causing metal particles and such.

Sure am glad I have that can of oddball washers to go fishing in.

 

[JamesSam]

^^^^^
Gathering up some of the wires on the firewall & putting them in looms would clean it up pretty good, IMO.

Gonna grab some 1/2 in. split loom on the way home from work tomorrow. I am thinking two or three, 6 in. sections would tidy those wires up for a better look.
@CoggedBelt75 your engine bay is immaculate. I will try to get mine in better standings but, I'm not worthy! Lol!

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[CoggedBelt75]

Gonna grab some 1/2 in. split loom on the way home from work tomorrow. I am thinking two or three, 6 in. sections would tidy those wires up for a better look.
@CoggedBelt75 your engine bay is immaculate. I will try to get mine in better standings but, I'm not worthy! Lol!

Thanks. It has taken me many attempts to get where I'm at. It's the small details that I notice more than anything. Git r done!

 

[Radiohead]

Today is transmission service day. Never done a t400 that I can remember, but memory isn't what it used to be either. Regardless, I was surprised how little fluid was in residence in the pan when it came down. That would explain it falling out of gear putting around in the carport area. I say that because I don't exactly trust the dipstick in it yet. (Did I mention I bought it from a tweaker house? Makes for some interesting "discoveries" to say the least)

Anyway, with the clock showing 68k I expected a lot more clutch material than I found and someone has been in here at some point (explains the decent fluid quality) but I found an anomaly that does concern me. The bolt that holds the filter up seemed very loose, as in backed out. But it took a little torque to get it to let go. This is what I saw once it all came out.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

That's a lot of length discrepancy between the bolt and the spacer tube. Also note in the first picture, how the end of the shank on the bolt is wallowed over a little and how the tube end looks smooshed up a bit. So I took a file and carefully took the burr edge off the bolt shank so I could put some washers in to take up the slack. Which led me to this.

You must be registered for see images attach

A little hard to see with phone cameras, but there is between a 16th and a 32nd gap between the washer stack and end of bolt shank.

My question to the braintrust is this; is the filter supposed to rattle around on its bolt or (like I suspect) be firmly mounted to the valve body? I'm going with firm, but I could be wrong. I need to get the pan back up so dirt and assorted schmutz doesn't get all up in there and add to my woes. Then I will come back and use the search function to look for an answer. I won't fill it until I find the answer in case I need to pull a washer back off to allow it to wobble around. But it makes no sense to me that it should vibrate around, causing metal particles and such.

Sure am glad I have that can of oddball washers to go fishing in.

Well, deficate. I should have done a little reading before I tightened up the pan. I'm back out to pull a washer off... fornicate

You must be registered for see images attach

Did an oil change while I was down there, and the oil is relatively new too. But, it had a hint of forbidden milkshake to it. Hopefully this is from never really getting fully warmed up and driven for years now. But I will be doing the combustion gas test on the radiator as soon an oil level and pressure is verified. Some days you're the windshield, some days you're the bug. Sigh...

 

[1976dully]

Nothing big, but took the dully to the local show this afternoon. Getting itchy to get after a LOT of stuff to the old man!

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[Radiohead]

Did a quick search while I had the pan off, and the dipstick (trans) doesn't even come to the pan surface of the trans. Took a washer off but there's no way a half inch play is proper. So I'm leaving the others on for now. I have a feeling I'll be back in a time or two more until I get this dipstick thing dialed in.

The stick in it now has a number of 1257013. I'm off to see if that means anything useful. The whole re-oiling thing is on hold until I get this dipstick stuff sorted. That's what I managed to do TO my square today. Much less than I wanted though.....

On edit - GAAH, that number is for a th350. Multiple colorful metaphors in a row
Did I mention the tweakers?

Well, there's this

You must be registered for see images attach

I do have a chrome 24"ish stick and tube. Might see if it will fit in leiu of hunting down the proper unit. Hey, the tool box/bread truck has a th400..... hmm. I'm off to see the wizard....

 

[Radiohead]

10017293 is the number off the tool truck dipstick. According to Oldsmobile Obsolete, that is a number for a th400 in the correct vintage range. More investigation is needed

Edit - a correct number for a P - 10,20,30. It's a P - 30.

 

[xm20k]

The TH350, TH400, TH200, 200-4R all use the same dipstick.

The one I have for the 400 I'm currently building.

FTI Performance F4017 FTI Performance Locking Transmission Dipsticks | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - FTI Performance Locking Transmission Dipsticks with qualifying orders of $125. Shop Transmission Fluid Dipsticks at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

 

[Radiohead]

Someone wrote that the dipstick should come in around the pan surface and the one in my truck currently is way up in the tube when fully inserted. Tomorrow I will see if there's any length difference in the two. Part numbers do call out for different applications.

That's all I know right now.

 

[73 cheySuper]

FINALLY got the '73 out for a test drive. Pulled it out of the garage for the first time under it's own power in 10 years, then crawled underneath to check leaks, loose stuff, whatever......and as blind as I am, I noticed the c-clp at the base of the sector shaft on the steering box was dislodged. WTF!! I rebuilt it with an Edelmann kit a few months ago. Removed the pitman, pushed the seal back, and re-installed the clip, but it just didn't feel tight enough. Dug the C20 box out, removed it's original c-clip and noticed it was at least 1/16" bigger in diameter and the spring steel just felt better. Used that in the K20 box and we're back in business. Ran around the block, breaks work well, hydroboost functions as it should, no squealing, a bit of an exhaust leak at 1 doughnut, a huge success!!

 

[fofiddyfo]

FINALLY got the '73 out for a test drive. Pulled it out of the garage for the first time under it's own power in 10 years, then crawled underneath to check leaks, loose stuff, whatever......and as blind as I am, I noticed the c-clp at the base of the sector shaft on the steering box was dislodged. WTF!! I rebuilt it with an Edelmann kit a few months ago. Removed the pitman, pushed the seal back, and re-installed the clip, but it just didn't feel tight enough. Dug the C20 box out, removed it's original c-clip and noticed it was at least 1/16" bigger in diameter and the spring steel just felt better. Used that in the K20 box and we're back in business. Ran around the block, breaks work well, hydroboost functions as it should, no squealing, a bit of an exhaust leak at 1 doughnut, a huge success!!

WOW that’s a gorgeous truck! Congrats on getting to take her for a long overdue walk, even if a short one. Had to feel GREAT!!

 

[73 cheySuper]

WOW that’s a gorgeous truck! Congrats on getting to take her for a long overdue walk, even if a short one. Had to feel GREAT!!

Thanks for that. Taking a rig out for the inaugural run after a body-off is always stressful, lots to be on top of. I find I manage it much better when I'm by myself, keeps my focus inline. This was the first big block I built from scratch, and the first hydroboost I've installed and honestly the first 4x4 I've put together. That, and the trans and transfer were transplants with 0 familiarity, only the fluid to gauge condition. Both are without issue......so far. The Dana 60 front was also a first, and started out as a dually front, which was a pretty expensive piece to go through, even though I essentially got the core for nothing. Biggest issue I have so far is I assumed my rear out of the C20 was a 4.10 ratio, and felt great getting the 4.10 geared D60. Turns out that rear is a 3.73, so after going through the front, I now have a choice to make, change gearing in the front, or the rear. That decision will be made after I get it on the highway and make an informed decision. An overdrive isn't in the cards at this point.

 

[Grit dog]

Wow! Stunning truck!
Regarding gears, depends how you want to drive it, IMO.
Big block = enough power to pull even taller gears than 3:73s.
4.1s with 35s is 3k rpms at 70mph.
3:73s better if you’re wanting to put any real miles on at normal freeway speeds. 4.1s ftw for pulling.