What have you done to your square lately??

[bucket]

A used harness for a one year only truck I want to think would be difficult to find but there is one listed on Ebay now. It's for a manual but should be able to add my stuff for the lock up converter and such. Something from a milder climate might have a chance but every time I touched a connector, it broke. Somewhere, someplace, somebody has new correct plastic connectors for sale, I haven't found them yet. There are GM part numbers for all of them, I just have to find them

The other issue was the fuel pump wiring, I have 8 volts going to it, hence the low fuel pressure. Not sure how many pumps have been installed in this truck but when I cut back the insulation near the pump connection, the wire was discolored, usually meaning it was overheated which builds resistance and creates the low voltage. What else is smoked that I can't see? What other wire was flexed a couple times over the 39 years and 2 or 3 strands inside are broken making that 16GA wire now a 18 or 20GA. You have continuity and you think everything is ok but it can't support the amps. That is what I am trying to avoid.

My thought was using an American Auto wire under hood harness for the starter, alt and gauges from an older truck and running the Painless for the TBI part.

An honest answer is once it started giving me any grief, I will start keeping my eyes open for a good donor. There are a bunch of LS and LT motor and transmission combinations under $2K locally

It wasn't a one-year harness. Lots of Burbs, K5's, crew cabs and chassis cabs after '87.

 

[Ricko1966]

A used harness for a one year only truck I want to think would be difficult to find but there is one listed on Ebay now. It's for a manual but should be able to add my stuff for the lock up converter and such. Something from a milder climate might have a chance but every time I touched a connector, it broke. Somewhere, someplace, somebody has new correct plastic connectors for sale, I haven't found them yet. There are GM part numbers for all of them, I just have to find them

The other issue was the fuel pump wiring, I have 8 volts going to it, hence the low fuel pressure. Not sure how many pumps have been installed in this truck but when I cut back the insulation near the pump connection, the wire was discolored, usually meaning it was overheated which builds resistance and creates the low voltage. What else is smoked that I can't see? What other wire was flexed a couple times over the 39 years and 2 or 3 strands inside are broken making that 16GA wire now a 18 or 20GA. You have continuity and you think everything is ok but it can't support the amps. That is what I am trying to avoid.

My thought was using an American Auto wire under hood harness for the starter, alt and gauges from an older truck and running the Painless for the TBI part.

An honest answer is once it started giving me any grief, I will start keeping my eyes open for a good donor. There are a bunch of LS and LT motor and transmission combinations under $2K locally

Have you checked voltage I and out at the fp relay,and also voltage in and out on the FP section of the oil pressure switch? Low volts increases amps which creates heat and burns up pumps.

 

[bluex]

Any connection will corrode when they are crimped like that. That one looks to have been crimped with an improper tool by a ham-****** baboon.

The slightest tear in the outer heat shrink sleeve will let moisture in.

*edit* Jebus, even "f!sted" is a naughty word?!

You dont crimp those, supposedly the solder melts as you also shrink the heat shrink. Everytime I've used them the heat shrink burns/melts about the time the solder melts.

Looks like you do what I do, whether it is a crimp or solder butt splice, I still cover with heat shrink. I hope it doesn't corrode. If the wire gets tugged on I could see it coming apart, dunno.

I use good connectors, with a good crimper an then heat shrink. I will solder some but depends on where it is.

Interesting. Is that your example of why they are no good? I’m not seeing corrosion but am seeing way too short of a pigtail on the wire that pulled out.
Asking cuz I’ve only been using those solder shrink connectors for a few maybe 5 years now. Haven’t had issues, haven’t used on exposed to the elements daily drivers bathed in mud and road salt etc though.

Yes but there's no corrosion in that one, because it wasn't properly melted an it pulled apart with very light pressure. The 2 I found that were melted were corroded because the heat shrink was damaged.

I'm sure plenty of people can use them properly or have had good luck with them but I dont like them an they have been the cause of issues whenever I've seen them. Its just another thing that people who don't know/care or don't pay attention to what their doing to screw up their vehicle.

 

[xm20k]

You dont crimp those, supposedly the solder melts as you also shrink the heat shrink. Everytime I've used them the heat shrink burns/melts about the time the solder melts.



I use good connectors, with a good crimper an then heat shrink. I will solder some but depends on where it is.



Yes but there's no corrosion in that one, because it wasn't properly melted an it pulled apart with very light pressure. The 2 I found that were melted were corroded because the heat shrink was damaged.

I'm sure plenty of people can use them properly or have had good luck with them but I dont like them an they have been the cause of issues whenever I've seen them. Its just another thing that people who don't know/care or don't pay attention to what their doing to screw up their vehicle.

Had the same issue with those heat shrink would burn up, and the solder never melted.

 

[Ajax19]

You dont crimp those, supposedly the solder melts as you also shrink the heat shrink. Everytime I've used them the heat shrink burns/melts about the time the solder melts.



I use good connectors, with a good crimper an then heat shrink. I will solder some but depends on where it is.



Yes but there's no corrosion in that one, because it wasn't properly melted an it pulled apart with very light pressure. The 2 I found that were melted were corroded because the heat shrink was damaged.

I'm sure plenty of people can use them properly or have had good luck with them but I dont like them an they have been the cause of issues whenever I've seen them. Its just another thing that people who don't know/care or don't pay attention to what their doing to screw up their vehicle.

Those work ok if you do a lineman splice and add extra heat shrink

 

[Ajax19]

Actually I Tested them used them on a few projects a good crimp or actual solder works better but they will work

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

 

[Grit dog]

Actually I Tested them used them on a few projects a good crimp or actual solder works better but they will work

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

Same here.
That failed connection @bluex posted was just done wrong. These connectors aren’t magical wire welders. But if you twist the wires together and don’t blast it with a torch I think they work pretty well as designed.
Anyone could botch a crimp or solder splice as well. Doesn’t mean the methodology is bad, just poor execution.

 

[Grit dog]

I generally try to use a heat gun or just a lighter if open flame. Too small of area makes it hard to not burn it with a torch.

 

[bucket]

You dont crimp those, supposedly the solder melts as you also shrink the heat shrink. Everytime I've used them the heat shrink burns/melts about the time the solder melts.

Oh. It looked like a mashed crimp in the picture to me. I've never used the ones with solder in them. I've always used the crimp type and they have performed excellently for me, even in the long run.

 

[Radiohead]

I've been wondering about those solder wicking ones. I usually use the old school ones and have had decent enough experience with them. I use heat shrink if I think about it ahead of time. Which is to say that undercarriage stuff always gets the treatment while in cab or underhood might not. Those solder embedded ones look nice in the ads, but my luck doesn't run like that.

 

[xm20k]

I have had no luck with them from 2 different places but one was a yellowish tinted the other blueish haven't seen any that were just straight clear like in the video.

 

[Tank6x2]

Still cleaning the frame had to move my pan hard bar and fab up a bracket for the new fuel tank

 

[Tank6x2]

Side rails and top cleaned up today - fuel tank is a overkill customs tank from red deer specifically for a long box, replacement cross member came with the tank with in tank fuel pump, sending unit and is vented with a offset fuel spout.

 

[Tinker]

Picked up a NOS radiator cap.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[Ken B]

another step closer!!!

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach