What have you done to your square lately??

[xm20k]

I was thinking about that too. How do you know which water pump you have? Long or not. I see a lot that say long water pump in the description. Thanks for the link.

From the pics you posted and the pic on the site they look to be the same casting and the belt setup shows the alt on the outer pulley. Long WP is roughly about an inch longer if I remember correctly.

 

[Sad Sack]

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[idahovette]

^^^^^^^^^WOW Johnny on the spot @Sad Sack, you were just waiting weren't ya?....lol^^^^^^^

 

[Sad Sack]

^^^^^^^^^WOW Johnny on the spot @Sad Sack, you were just waiting weren't ya?....lol^^^^^^^

I multi-task really well here at work.

 

[SlickGTP]

Pulled her out of the garage, tuned her up a bit, and finally hooked up the adj vacuum advance. She's running pretty good, but now I need to lean her out a bit and adjust the springs in the distributor. Then revisit the vacuum advance again...

 

[Ricko1966]

Pulled her out of the garage, tuned her up a bit, and finally hooked up the adj vacuum advance. She's running pretty good, but now I need to lean her out a bit and adjust the springs in the distributor. Then revisit the vacuum advance again...

Most adjustable cans limit advance by upping the spring tension inside the can so the engine vacuum can't overcome it. Okay so it did limit overall but also made the can not come in as soon as it should. Investigate. My opinion making stops for the can is a better option. Loosen the spring back up so the can can work then make a simple stop to limit how much the arm can actually move. Lots of people don't realize GM used bushings on the vacuum advance rod to limit advance most are long gone,crumbled away or not moved from the old can to the new can when people changed a worn out advance can.Look at the pics, the good kits come with a stop plate so you don't have to make the can unresponsive. The other pic shows a simple homemade stop plate.

 

[82sbshortbed]

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Thanks! Will definitely measure it when I get home from work.

 

[Tank6x2]

Painted grill, head light buckets, and interior trim pieces; most of you won’t like the white but my truck my way, no pics too much going on Saturday. Also added a coat of white to the door bottom two tone. Gonna try to get moving on this again to at least seal it up for winter so I don’t need the tarp.

Painted grill, head light buckets, and interior trim pieces; most of you won’t like the white but my truck my way, no pics too much going on Saturday. Also added a coat of white to the door bottom two tone. Gonna try to get moving on this again to at least seal it up for winter so I don’t need the tarp.

I did you just cant see them in the picture .

Thats fair - long as they are going in,

 

[SlickGTP]

Most adjustable cans limit advance by upping the spring tension inside the can so the engine vacuum can't overcome it. Okay so it did limit overall but also made the can not come in as soon as it should. Investigate. My opinion making stops for the can is a better option. Loosen the spring back up so the can can work then make a simple stop to limit how much the arm can actually move. Lots of people don't realize GM used bushings on the vacuum advance rod to limit advance most are long gone,crumbled away or not moved from the old can to the new can when people changed a worn out advance can.Look at the pics, the good kits come with a stop plate so you don't have to make the can unresponsive. The other pic shows a simple homemade stop plate.

Interesting... I've never seen stop plates on a Vacuum Advance before. I'll have to look into it at some point. The adjustable is doing what it needs for the moment. I had it disconnected for the longest time and just upped the mechanical advance when I had first built the engine at the advice of the machine shop, but later learned that his assumptions weren't on track with reality.

The other issue I found over the weekend is that my mechanical isn't coming in as fast as it should, so I don't have max mechanical advance until well over 3k rpm.

 

[Terlingueno]

This fine morning, I checked all 32 lug nuts for torque and made sure tire pressure was good on the '85 K20 Sub. In a month, it will be cooler and can work on the truck all day instead of early mornings. Someday, I'll have a garage or car port instead of desert dirt for a workspace.

 

[Ricko1966]

Interesting... I've never seen stop plates on a Vacuum Advance before. I'll have to look into it at some point. The adjustable is doing what it needs for the moment. I had it disconnected for the longest time and just upped the mechanical advance when I had first built the engine at the advice of the machine shop, but later learned that his assumptions weren't on track with reality.

The other issue I found over the weekend is that my mechanical isn't coming in as fast as it should, so I don't have max mechanical advance until well over 3k rpm.

Relying on an adjustable can instead of a stop plate creates the same problem as your too tight springs on the centrifugal side,yes your vacuum advance works but not at optimal times because you have the spring tension up to restrict it. MSD makes stops ( not good ones IMHO.)Crane makes stops ( good but need mods) best bet is make your own . Go online "home made HEI Vacuum advance stop plates" Lots of info,how much movement equals how much advance. Easy home made designs.

 

[Rustisbest]

I use the MSD one. Wasn't worth making one to me for what it cost. . No cutting, drilling, tapping, filing or welding. Phillips screwdriver to put it on and its adjustable.

 

[xm20k]

Drove mine to work today hit "MEXICO" on my way home and attempted a trans brake launch and as soon as it came up on the 2 step the solenoid smoked itself and released while still on the button, she launched hard, but I wasn't ready for it and backed out, stopped hit the button no click, tossed it in reverse pressed button no reverse. Ordered new solenoid as soon as I got in. This was only like the 3rd time I've tried to launch off of it the rest were backing up.

 

[bluex]

Well today was a big day I've been dreading/nervous about on this customer truck. I put the battery in it an one by one started adding fuses and checking circuits.

Nothing caught on fire, only a few small issues that were quickly corrected an two that might need parts. Added fuel to it, programmed the Sniper2, quick leak check an she busted right off! Over all a good day.

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[Radiohead]

It all started nearly 4 years ago now (dang), among the endless punchlist items with this truck, upon purchase - no door keys. No biggie, on a rig that couldn't run away if it wanted without a tow. It didn't bug me, our crime out here in 2a country is really low, enough to leave the doors unlocked and let k9-inc take care of any creepers. But hey, its a feature good for the eventuality of going to town or gasp, even the big city. Keeps some of the kids out of the jockeybox.

First, must consider cost vs value quotient, and considering what a locksmith shop quoted to key a padlock recently, Rock Auto won out again. Bless their hearts, the order arrived Thursday. Without pulling a door card I saw something was wrong. It was easy, one missing lock cylinder and parts kit, two keys. A few keystrokes and many inconvenienced electrons later, a replacement is on the way.

Forward to today, go to po box and like a little kid, get a box from Rock Auto and get all giddy like it's Christmas. The investigator side of me opened up the box and whhuuuut is this?

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Apparently, what I was sent originally wasn't a DL7 (Standard). This lock uses a flat rod about 3" long while the ones today look like it's a flat piece with a clip that hooks to the rod.

Anyone recognize that one on the right?
And I would like to thank Rock Auto for fast tracking a replacement so fast without a bunch of crap first. I may not even have to return the package error, since it looks like the call came from inside the house anyway. Why leave the key behind is what trips me up. If they want it back, no problem with me.

Ha, now I get to pull door cards and get another win on punchlist bingo going. Sweet.