Discussion in 'Garage' started by Old77, Jul 11, 2012.
Looks like I need to push her outside and do some wash down.
Got alot done on the Jimmy today!
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never thought about it until I saw your pic, but I may put some eye bolts in the corners of the floor. At least they'll be out of the way and can also be used for tie downs.
And last follow up on this, he drove the k5 an hour away, and then all over the trails at Uwharrie National Forest.... th350 did good, was banging gears, he was very happy. ... then he drove it home from the trails..... always makes me happy to see my work do good.
Huge day for me; buying the '80 in October 2019, it barely had some leaky valve covers. I said i'll get around to it. Year and a half later, i went to get in the truck and there was alot more oil under the truck and i was used to. And yes, it was the gaskets. So today i FINALLY pulled it in and replaced them both and holy crap, the MOST oil soaked, brittle, POS i've ever seen! just a little over due haha. went well, runs good and i got to play with ol big block
My new leaf springs rusted just sitting under the truck last year so I stripped them, POR 15'd them, then top coated them with chassis black. I put them back under the frame. Spent the rest of a (short) day making new dollies for the frame with springs. Rolls really well. Each end has 4 wheels under it so even with the huge cracks we have, 2-3 are still on smooth cement and it never binds. If the weather hold tomorrow (chance of rain), the new stainless brake and fuel lines are going in.
Got the tint done finally
Taught the boy to use the lava wrench the other day.
It easily removed the tops of those bolts from the random seat tracks left from a previous owner...
On my suburban, i stil havent tracked down rhe source of the noise. Altho it hasnt ever gotten any worse.
With new yukon duragrip locker, carrier bearings, pinion bearings, gears, and then on thursday, driveshaft u joints, it still makes noise..... finally got another clue
Crunchy noises when i turn... so..... whenever i find time, i will be pulling shafts out to do tube seals and bearings, i think that'll fix it.
Old girl did good towing my heavy ass s10 to uwharrie... running up and down hills and such at the forest, just kept her in 2nd and 3rd gear , on the pavement, when i'd hit flatland, i'd just leave her in 4th until i came up on a grade, kick it down to 3rd and climb.... great truck... great performance....
I need to install my infamous 650 cfm "VBI" unit sometime.
Thanks fed ex
Got the bed, hood and tailgate 95% ready for paint and most of the dings and wowwies pookied up on the doors and fenders and blocked out.
Bed has gone through 2.5 round of block sanding. Orig primer (was pretty thick under the peeling paint, so no sense in wasting that stuff), 3 coats after the bodywork, re-fillered all the low spots, sanded again, have a half dozen or so spots to build up 1 more time.
Hood, dents fixed and 1 round of 3 coats and blocked out. 1 more round of filling low spots and it'll be ready to seal as well.
Believe it or not, I think the tailgate was the straightest part.
I'd again like to thank the person who installed the screw on tie downs on the bed sides and tailgate. Those looked pretty straight and holes welded up easy, but each area required way more work than I thought to get them perfectly straight.
Down to roof and A pillar repair, cowl and valance prep, prime and block the doors and fenders. Paint chassis and core support and it'll be ready to turn blue again.
PS anyone in the Seattle area knows a mobile sand blaster that is reasonably priced, I've decided the inside of the bed needs blasted because I'm tired of the peeling 80s paint and stuck on what to do. Can't scuff and squirt it to watch it peel next month or next year and not going to go through all the sanding and scraping for the inside of the bed. I can get it done if I take it somewhere for like $120, but I never have the time during business hours.
Man that looks good. That high build primer? I take it you didn't take it to bare metal so no need to epoxy prime/seal it? You going base/clear or single stage? These had lacquer on them originally, yes?Are you painting it in pieces or reassembling it then paint? (million questions - lol).
I'll be at that point soon enough. Last car I shot was Imron in about 1991, so been awhile. My original gun was a Porter Cable - still have it. Works great for primers. Got a new sata knock off I have yet to use. Having all my sheet metal media blasted clean - there so much crap like spray can undercoating on the firewall and mold - am doing it to just save time.
Completed my front brakes last night. New Calipers, brake pads, inner and outer wheel bearings. Got the rotors turned and even put a shiny new dust cap on it. Waiting for the front shocks to arrive as they were on backorder.
Likely going to do inner and outer tie rods as well......surprisingly the upper and lower ball joints are still pretty tight!
Thanks! It should be nice n straight.
Didn’t take it all down to bare metal. Plenty of spots ended up bare though. I used an all in one direct to rust/metal/high build primer from Tamco. Generally anything with surface rust I wire wheeled the rust off prior to priming. This stuff is supposed to thin out well and lay down nice as a final sealer, pre paint, as well. Haven't tried that yet.
It appears to bond real well to bare metal. I intentionally chipped a few areas off that had been rusty or bare to test and I had to gouge it pretty hard with a razor blade.
Hope it works as good as they say it does.
Truck was a single stage, guessing enamel, repaint over basically bare metal. So it now will essentially only have 1 paint job after I peeled all the old paint off. Yes it lasted 30ish? Years without coming off but was not bonded well.
I'm leaving the doors and front fenders on since they're lined pretty well and didn't require any repair work aside from little dents and dings. And I'm not repainting the door jambs. Paint looks like new in there and not worth the effort, IMO. Only the rocker panels are getting re-painted.
Removed hood and bed for obvious reasons and ease of repair/paint.
Going 2 stage. Primarily because Tamco wouldn’t mix metallic in single stage and I couldn’t pass up the good price. All indications are it's good quality.
Need to test out my gun for clear. I have an old Devilbiss HVLP gun and idk which tip is still good as they’re not marked. One tip got destroyed.
Hope it’ll clear good without buying a new gun. I'll get plenty of practice inside the bed and behind the cab to figure that out!
I’m not real keen on sanding and polishing the whole thing after I finish, lol. But I’m probably dreaming...
Seems like it's taking forever, but I don't get alot of time on it and half the time so far has been peeling fcking paint off! But this was just before Thanksgiving, so maybe not so bad...
Hooked up the scanner and noticed that the O2 sensors voltage read differently. This could be due to an issue with either bank. I would expect (not knowing any better) that the voltages for each O2 sensor would be relatively close to each other. These are the sensors that came off the donor vehicle with the engine.
I've felt a drop in performance over the past month, so i went ahead and ordered some replacement NTK O2 sensors to install. I'll update with a pic after the install.
I did notice a 2005 LM7 with 140k miles (no harness or front accessories) on FB for $400. I plan to go ahead and get it and rebuild pending price of parts.
[Update/thought] It may be because I think I've got a small exhaust leak under the drivers side cab area. May have some play with the readings.
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